Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
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hey guys. so i'm starting to get the ball going and start working on my 5/74 260z before actual rain starts. got some bumps. the whole fuel system is off and is gonna go back on after the front suspension is on and the tank gets cleaned. everything looks stock. it doesn't seem to make sense to me to use the same hoses after carb work. the hoses still look good but 40 years seems like a long time running. and a new mech fuel pump wouldn't hurt. so it got me thinking about a clean fuel system, or as clean as i can. so two things on the front. how do i clean the hard lines? the wrapped ones and the rails along the side that go to the rear. just straight flushing? the other i…
Last reply by Captain_Zeros, -
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You heard it, Keith Franck is ready to fabricate some Emulsion tubes for Mikuni carbs after getting a Mikuni to model from our friend Silverstreak. He has Silverstreak testing one set for sure but if you have A:F meter installed fess up and you could be part of this test. Here's a clue! These work amazingly on Webers! "Ready to fab some tubes but I've got one more hurdle to clear. The leadscrew on my lathe won't turn metric threads so I'll have to try using a M11x1 die for the male thread. I'm hoping to do it in a single pass without tearing up the brass threads. This is where it could go all wrong.:-( I'll need some volunteers to test these tubes. Preferably someone that…
Last reply by conedodger, -
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I am currently using an .090 plate of aluminum attached to the underside of my carbs. I still seem to get the fuel 'pukeing' effect from the Webers on longer drives. I end up with fuel on the shield and down on the left frame rail. Someone mentioned to me that the plate needs to have insulation on it, i.e. header wrap or similar, to actually block the transfer of heat from the header. My question is, should the insulator be exposed or open; or would a sandwich of aluminum, insulation and aluminum be OK? Also, should there be some sort of insulating washer between the shield and the mtg. points on the carbs?
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
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I know this has been covered many times. I've done the search, watched the ZT video. Yes the front float is meant to sit lower. Thread #38660, response by Bcalvosa, 5/23/2010 seems to explain why the best (although I read a conflicting theory based on the gas sloping during acceleration), that is because the engine is tilted and different float levels equal same levels at the nozzle (relative to that carb). Bcalvosa states the gas level to be 25 mm front, 21 mm rear, measured down from the tip of the bowl including the gasket. Most other sources say 25mm front, 23 mm rear. Which is right? I've got to install some new float valves & nozzles, then a local race mechani…
Last reply by Stanley, -
- 15 replies
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Well today in order to get my carbs even better (this is where the issues come in as they were running fine, and I cannot seem to leave well enough alone). I opened up the screw covering the progression holes. Now all manner of weber tuning manuals state that you need to have the butteflies covering the first progression hole. And when you first tip into the throttle you start to uncover it. Well I noticed that mine were not this way. Instead they were almost a full turn more closed that than. Meaning I could move the butterflies a few mm before I would even start to uncover the first holes. Well I figured this had to be wrong (even though I had a reliable running, …
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
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<<< USE 29mm rather than 25mm >>>> 25mm causes a huge rich spot when cruising at highway speeds!!!!! Use a flashlight when probing.
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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Hi guys, I got a set of webers of a parts car, and these need quite a bit of attention. I bought 3 rebuild kits from Pierce Manifolds. I looked through the kit to figure out where each component goes, but these two washer type gaskets got me a little confused. I took a picture and attached it. The only place I could think of was at the ends of the butterfly shaft to create a seal, but that's just a guess. Input is appreciated.
Last reply by conedodger, -
I have a 1972 with SU carbs. I've always used "3 In 1" Motor Oil which is a straight SAE 20 oil. I can't go much more than 350 -- 400 miles without having to refill the reservoir. Is this normal? Chris
Last reply by Jetaway, -
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As follow up to our discussion on the thread I fail to find, I have a report back concerning how those piston tubes are constructed that would preclude leakage out the bottom of the tube. 4 screw tubes are one solid piece drilled from both ends leaving a solid floor at the bottom of the tube 3 screw are a little more involved. The tube is drilled full length. An insert is then pressed into the bottom of the tube. This insert has a hole drilled thru it to accept the needle. A what looks like a ball bearing is pressed into that hole and it nestles itself into the metal. We think then the insert may pressed into the tube as the fit is tighter than a well, you know. Bottom li…
Last reply by Bruce Palmer, -
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I was thinking that we here at Classic Z cars are a unique bunch that are willing to share knowledge at the slight hint of a question. What I would like to propose is an online collaborative parts sharing for Weber DCOE? Anybody who has triple webers on their cars, has a bunch of spare parts, jets, linkages, rod ends, emulsion tubes, etc. We are all trying to improve the tune of our cars, and for the vast majority of us, we settle on good enough, rather than perfect because the price of jets and air correctors are prohibitively expensive to buy in bulk. 6 of anything is about 40 bucks. however, a padded envelope is not that expensive and a stamp is within all our me…
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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I'm running a set of 44mm Mikuni's on my Rebello L30 in my 240Z track car. The car runs great at WOT and never stumbles regardless of throttle transition. I'm 95% happy with my current setup but the engineer in me wants to get that last 5%. The problem I am having is that the car runs very rich on 3000rpm, 3rd gear corner exits. It does not stumble but it feels like its drowning in fuel. AFR's are as follows... 4th gear cruise = 13.0 idle = 12.0 WOT 4th gear at 6500rpm = 12.8 3rd gear roll on from 3000rpm = 10ish The carbs are currently jetted as follows... 37mm venturi 160 fuel 200 air 40 pump 50 pilot When I roll the throttle on in 3rd it stays rich for quite some …
Last reply by steve91tt, -
- 15 replies
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Can't find detailed data on the net. (Comes up as "Repair Kit (B)" with "improved needles"). They came in an eBay "NOS 240z carb kit for 70-72 240z" They are ~5mm shorter than stock 240z needles Kit Supplier NJC Autoparts Labels on box: "Datsun x6010-E4926" "39-5063"
Last reply by Captain Obvious,
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