Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,549 topics in this forum
-
- 0 replies
- 1.8k views
I have a 73 240z with original motor and 4-speed transmission. I replaced the clutch with a kit from the LPS. When I took the transmission out of the car I did not replace the throw out bearing (yes, a bad decision). When I put it back together I had a bad noise/vibration happen every time I pushed in the clutch pedal. So I logged into the forums and after a comprehensive search, concluded that it’s the throw out bearing. I take the transmission out and replace it with the one in the kit. My problem is that is still making the noise. I decided to leave it in and it really only makes the noise when it’s cold. Could the clutch/pressure plate be made for a different si…
Last reply by 73_240z, -
-
- 16 replies
- 88k views
I bought a 280z a few weeks ago and it started up and ran fine. There was water visible in the radiator when I got it home, and the oil was clear. Now after replacing the water with antifreeze and water, I have found I have a blown head gasket as shown from no liquid in the radiator and a milky oil color. Now my car won't start. I can't figure out why it won't start aside from the leaky head gasket. I'm going to try and seal it with some gunk you put in the radiator that will hopefully seal the leak from the inside. Any ideas?
Last reply by kensval, -
- 3 replies
- 2.6k views
what am i doing wrong here? the tranny is supported, i've got the hoist on the block (head and manifolds are already removed), and they come apart about half an inch, but then the flywheel tries to come out too. i can see the crankshaft there in the gap. do i have to put it in neutral? everything is definitely unbolted. we have tried pulling the block forward, aggressively, but it won't move past about 3/4"
Last reply by Carl Beck, -
- 1 reply
- 1.2k views
Hey guys, I recently bought some resurfaced rockers to replace my old ones as i am putting in a different cam, still stock however my old one had a worn lobe so i figured new cam i better get some refreshed rockers. My question is about the new rockers, they look a little different and I am concerned about the rocker arm geometry being different. The person I bought them from on ebay stated they were out of a 240z. I have attached some pictures. Can you tell me what you think? Thanks Frankie
Last reply by Frankensteinz2, -
- 5 replies
- 3k views
Hay I dont know if this is in the right section but i have a a Rebuilt 280ZX Block, bored .40 over, with ARP Rod Bolts, new turbo pistons, new rings, and new rod, and main bearings, with the turbo P90 head, and intake manifold for sale i painted the block black, and it has copper freeze plugs... it looks really nice And i need to know how much i need to ask for it.. i don't know how much it is worth.
Last reply by hls30.com, -
- 2 replies
- 923 views
Hi all, Following advice I read elsewhere (common Z problems), I checked my vacuum advance. It's frozen up. (You would think I would have found that out when I checked the timing with my timing light, but my light only worked long enough for me to confirm it was 10 deg BTDC, and not long enough to goose the engine. I guess that's something else I have to fix/replace. :disappoin) The breaker plate does move a little bit, but not as much or as freely as it should -- not by a long shot. I also checked the play in the distributor shaft. I get a wobble of approx. 0.010" from side to side. Is that OK? It's not TIGHT, but I wouldn't think that little wobble would create…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
- 5 replies
- 1.3k views
Hi all, My mostly uncorrupted '78 Z has a factory A/C. The high idle dashpot does actuate when the compressor clicks in, and it will hold a high idle when I let off of the throttle. However, if the engine is idling, and THEN the compressor clicks in, the dashpot is not quite strong enough to increment the idle. I've already disassembled, cleaned, lubed, adjusted, and reassembled the throttle linkages, and they're working very freely. Any thoughts as to how I can solve the problem with the dashpot? It's not a hugely big deal, but I'd still like it to work right.
Last reply by FastWoman, -
- 10 replies
- 2.2k views
Hi! My dad and I have been putting a ton of work into this engine and transmission, and it's finally ready! Except that I have to wait for my transmission mount I ordered and it's taking forever! But if I've waited this long I can wait a little longer I guess So I just wanted to know what you guys thought of it. Any pointers on putting it in? I have a cherry picker that I'm planning on using to drop it in. I'm also going to take off the carbs and valve cover so I don't risk hitting them. I'm going to put in an electronic fuel pump instead of the mechanical one so that's why there is a homemade plate where the old fuel pump should go. I'm going to put it back nea…
Last reply by 1970Datsun240z, -
- 3 replies
- 4.3k views
Hey I've got a 72' 240z. I bought i about a month ago,and i'm currently fixing the engine. It has been siting in a garage for the past two years, and was running before it was put into the garage. Just from sitting, the engine has seized up. Are there easy ways to fix it or should i just take off the head and do some more major work. Any help would be great. -chris
Last reply by bigoak, -
- 8 replies
- 6.8k views
I checked the ignition timing on my car yesterday (finally) and the mark (marks) are off the end of the timing indicatior. BTW- which mark to use; the one on the pulley or the balancer? Maybe one was filed in by a PO? Anyway, the engine runs, but I had the distributor turned all the way to get the timing mark to about 20 degrees (at 800 rpm, without any vacuum advance.) If it was a V8 engine, I'd say the dizzy was installed with the drive gear a tooth off, but the L28 dizzy only goes in one way or the other (180 degrees different.) I think a visit to the Nissan dealer to have the S30 guy look at the dizzy will be worthwhile. Maybe have him rebuild it? Just getting …
Last reply by Doehring, -
- 0 replies
- 1.3k views
I got an electronic ignition and coil from Summit Racing. From what I understand they are basically Mallory bits re-branded for Summit. So, it should install exactly the same as a Mallory Hyfire 6. After sitting on the parts for a bit, I decided to take it to an expert since I have very little confidence when it comes to wiring. The guy that I took it to came very highly recommended, but he deals mostly with the carbureted Zs. He said he has spark, but is having trouble getting the fuel injection to fire. I had a tach adapter with it, which is also installed. Does anyone have any experience with wiring an aftermarket ignition with a fuel injected Z? Any help would…
Last reply by venom42, -
- 15 replies
- 4.7k views
OK I'm about to go take a closer look and find out where the noise is coming from but what I know so far is it only comes on after I put the key in the ignition and power is sent to the car. The hissing sounds like air or gas or something is being leaked out or pushed out as it is fairly audible. It's coming from somewhere close tot the center of the engine. Anyway I'm going to go have a look at it with a flash light so I can actually see where it's coming from. The car is idling hard and almost always dies after being left to it's self for more than 20 seconds if that. It gets down to about a .5 rpm and just struggles and then shuts down. But does anyone know what this m…
Last reply by FastWoman,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
siteunseen
