Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
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Recently purchased '74 260Z with non running side marker lights (everything else lights up). Stock fuse components. PO conveniently cut the wires on all 4 side markers. I spliced one side marker (cleaned housing, etc) and replaced with new same spec bulb. Turned on the combo switch, bulb lit up along with front/rear running lights. Within a minute - all the lights went out. Checked 20A fuse for PARK/TAIL and it's OK (replaced it also, lamps still out), removed fuse box and inspected behind for signs of failure - all looks good too (no crusty stuff). Is my issue now the combo switch like I've been reading? Cheers.
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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I've got my distributor off my 77 because I've been messing with my oil pump, and while looking it over, I noticed a curious little nubbin I did not recognize. Upon consultation with the FSM, it's called "The Contactor". Here's some snippets from the 77 manual showing the little beastie: Ok, so the intention is to prevent hysteresis in the advance mechanisms. Fair enough. But what the heck? Is this simply some small amount of intentional friction to keep the thing from floating on any play in the system?
Last reply by Dave WM, -
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In case anyone's interested, I made this using Adobe Illustrator and converted it to a PNG. It's a big file, but feel free to use it as you like.
Last reply by LorenB667, -
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Today there is a request for hazard switches in the classified forums which leads me to go to the stash and see what I have to help. Pawing through the group, I see plenty of differences. Of course this brings up more questions. We know about the change to the back lit, round pull knob style switch on the North American 240's in 73, and the shorter wires on the 72 switch (6 pin connector wires), but I was surprised by a couple of differences I didn't know about. The marking on the handles vary, and most surprisingly, as does the angle of the switch's bat style handle from one to the next in either position. All of these are the long lead variety, but …
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
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Just noticed my left and right turn signal light not working. Any clues on where i should start? I guess it could be the tired relay. The intermittent switch does work and the bulbs all around work.
Last reply by jfa.series1, -
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My washer pump was DOA, along with all the hoses to & from the jets. I decided to fix it all while I have the cowl apart I have stashes of Volvo parts, so I made a Volvo (VDO) pump fit. These were used for all Volvo 700/900 series from 83-98, so readily available. Later models use a large inlet that plugs directly into the tank, so none of those will work. Only had to bore out the factory sleeve to retain the new pump in the same location. Made an adaptor pigtail using the factory pump wiring. Pump is larger than original, still no issue with space Making an adaptor pigtail using the original pump harness Pump …
Last reply by LorenB667, -
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I have a 1973 Z and the fuel gauge is showing full, even though I emptied the tank and added only about 1 gal. This is a new fuel gauge component in the tank, swapped in in the last year. It seemed like it started having this problem after I put in a Pertronix Ignitor starter, but that doesn't seem to make sense. Here is a pic of the wiring at the tank, and 2 pics from ballast area under the hood.
Last reply by w3wilkes, -
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I have a 1973 Z and the fuel gauge is showing full, even though I emptied the tank and added only about 1 gal. This is a new fuel gauge sending unit in the tank, swapped in in the last year. It seemed like it started having this problem after I put in a Pertronix Ignitor starter, but that doesn't seem to make sense. Here is a pic of the wiring at the tank, and 2 pics from ballast area under the hood.
Last reply by Dadsun, -
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I'm nearing an attempted start up on my 73 complete restoration. The 73 was originally a auto with dual points, I've converted to a manual with roundtop carbs, intake and distributor with single points from a 72. I trying to interpret the timing plate in the distributor. Attached are two pics, one from the 73FSM the other an actual pic of the indicator on the distributor. There is not a similar pic in the 72 FSM. The pic from the 73 shows 3 lines pointing to the indicator. Unfortunately, there are two arrows pointing to the bottom line labeled 4 degrees and 8 degrees. The center line and the top line have arrows but no labels. I'm assuming a misprint. The second …
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Just wondering if there could be an easy diagnosis for my wipers being on all the time that the key is in the ON position...? Any insight is greatly appreciated...Ryals
Last reply by Tirnipgreen, -
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Hello to all, I've just got my plating setup working and now want to zinc and yellow chromate everything in sight. I've seen photos of Z horns with freshened plating so I have hope. I took mine apart and am wondering if the back can be plated and if that requires grinding the rivets off to remove the guts. Is this a bad idea? Any input is appreciated. Horn2.pdf Horn1.pdf
Last reply by Tirnipgreen, -
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Does anyone know if the OEM oil pressure sender had a wirelug connector or a bullet style? I don't see a picture of it in the FSM. I'm looking to replace the oil pressure sender on my 4/74 260Z. The one on the car has a wire lug with a screw that holds the wire in place. All the replacement units i've found have a bullet style connector. Before I cut wiring to change connectors I thought I'd ask around. If the correct one is with the wire lug, can a replacement be found anywhere?
Last reply by dutchzcarguy,
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