Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,439 topics in this forum
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- 8 replies
- 3.6k views
I am in the last stages of restoration on 1970 240z. Need to get a new electric antenna. For the time being will use original AM radio. Any suggestions on which model or make to use? Anyone had any experience with the unit sold by Motorsport Auto?
Last reply by Ed, -
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I'm haveing some trouble with my 72 240z. On the drivers side rear tail light assembly everything works great. But the passenger side brake light, and turn signal do not work. Its not the bulbs either, the socket is just not getting power. The wires going to it are not getting power. I checked the turn signal switch right under the column, and it is putting out power for the pass. side turn signal, and the front signal works fine. I'm not really trying to trouble shoot here, just trying to find a way to hotwire/bypass and run a new power wire to it. My problems are that I don't know how this system works. I see that when my brakes are applied, the same wire gets constant …
Last reply by Datzun76, -
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well when i got the z the ac pump belt was completely destroyed.. a big chunk of the rubber was missing, and it just practically fell off when i touched it. today i got a new belt and put it on, ran fine, etc, but when i switched the ac on the engine's rpm went way down and i saw some smoke coming from the air conditioning pump. i think it was the clutch burning up? because the pump itself wasnt moving at all. but the bearing thing that the belt is connected to was spinning.. i know i had the right tension and everything. but something is frozen in the pump i guess.. how can i fix this?? thanks
Last reply by smg1404, -
- 5 replies
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Hi guys, I was on ebay and noticed there are really spiffy sets of Krypton bulb conversion kits for the 240z. (cost around 40-50 bucks) It appears these kits come with a flat 7" round Lense with a plastic housing and rubber bulb holder. So here is my question. My original sealed beam housing is rusted thru in places and gives me fits when i changed the headlights this weekend. I am wondering if this conversion to krypton is a good idea? Is the current draw less than halogen? or should i just suck it up and try to deal with old rusted housings:) Thanks in advance Tony
Last reply by My260Rocks, -
I have a 1970 I am restoring and modifying. I was wondering about the smog pump. I am converting to tripple dellorhto carbs. Do I need the smog pump. Is there a way to bypass? Will it benefit to do so, or should I leave it alone. Any thoughts? Mark
Last reply by owenk, -
Hella H-4's vs Stock 1 2 3
by Ed- 25 replies
- 6.5k views
Are the Hella H-4 better than the stock lights? I recently replaced my headlights (preventative maintanance). But I still don't think they are as bright as other cars. Would the Hella headlights be worth the investment?
Last reply by H4LIGHTS, -
- 2 replies
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I'm having trouble with my 75 280z. Its been acting up and cant figure out whats wrong with it. Yesterday, I checked the AFM and It was not working. I opened it up and got it working. I got it started and idles but it bogs out. Today I tryed to turn it on and it would not start. I did not hear my fuel pump on and I checked the AFM again. I was not getting any power to it. I had my uncle crank the engine to see if i would get power to it. It got a little juice but didn't start. What could be wrong is my ECU out or my AFM. Please help I need my car to get to school and work. And if it is my ECU will any ECU work on the car.
Last reply by 1wildzer, -
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- 1.7k views
Under the drivers seat of my 280Z is a green box. It was once part of the electrical system but is no longer attached to anything. What was it??? Cheers....
Last reply by 2ManyZs, -
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My switch is funny the way you need to move it up or down to get itto turn on. You also have to pull it back slightly, otherwise it won't engage, so you can let go. Does this mean it is worn down and must be replaced?
Last reply by AxtellZ, -
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Can the stock 240Z alternators be boosted to put out more amps? I like to keep it simple, plug and play. I am looking to upgraded. Below is a link to an aftermarket one but it's $900.00us. Has anyone used them. http://www.powermaxx.com/main.htm Below is a list of electrical stuff it would need to handle: Fuel Injection Engine and all its goodies 100 watt headlights 100 watt driving lights (HID is still to costly) Rear Fog light Air Conditioner Stereo System Alarm System Laptop Computer Cellular Phone Radar Detector Refrigerator -- ice chest type
Last reply by smg1404, -
- 2 replies
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While restoring my 280Z I have replaced my old doors (which had had the rust monster chew big holes in them) with doors from a car which had electric windows. Does anyone know whether retrofitting e-windows to a car which originally didn't have them is a big deal? Are the plugs present under the dash (I can't find them!) or do I need to wire back to the fuse box. Cheers, Ross
Last reply by RossT, -
- 9 replies
- 13.3k views
Here is what happend to me today. I drove up to the auto zone and the guy hooks up his tester to my battery first.....results: Battery is bad!!!. Next i start the car and idle it at approx 1400 rpms for the alternater test.....Results: BAD!!! only putting out 12.5 volts. Next the Voltage regulator test: BAD!!! only putting out 5.5 to 6 amps.!!! Is it possible my Alternater is still ok, and that with a new battery and voltage regulator the alternater will check out ok? The store has an alternator in stock for $39.99 Thanks Tony Zcarsrock!!!
Last reply by 2ManyZs,
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Mark Maras
