Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,434 topics in this forum
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- 4 replies
- 6.3k views
Getting the engine bay ready for soda blasting and am replacing the engine harness. Im having trouble finding where the harness connects to. I can't find it on interior side of the firewall. Is this something I have to take the dash out to get to? I found some connections below the dash, but this seems to be to a different harness. Thanks guys
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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Hello guys! As you can tell I'm new to the forum, but am already finding a lot of useful information. I have a 1970 240Z (6/70) that I am beginning restoration on. The original engine had a connecting rod sticking out the block so a engine swap is in progress. When I pulled the engine I noticed the engine wiring harness has been tampered with severely. It has butt connectors throughout it and numerous homemade connections. Easily said, it's not up to par. I've been trying to locate a new engine wiring harness and have seen reference to a difference between the 240 years. Does anybody know what's makes the 1970 harness different? I've found other years for sale, b…
Last reply by CG240Z, -
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I am trying to convert my early 260z over to the 280zx alternator. I have found write-ups for the 240z and the 280z but have yet to come across a definitive write-up for the 260z! I need to finish this conversion asap because I have work in the morning! If anyone could lead me in the right direction with this I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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So I was cleaning my sensors bc my car is running a little rich and my temperature sensor switch the one with the 2 wires connected to it one is te ground and the other is connected to another wire and the ground wire broke off totally from the tip of the switch. I researched to buy a new one and it looks like no one have those anymore. Can I run without it grounded or is there any suggestion you guys have? Please I need help. My car is a 76 280z
Last reply by mjr45, -
- 10 replies
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Hi all, My alternator stopped working yesterday. When I wiggled the L/S connector, it started working again. I had assumed it was a corroded contact at that connector. Then I started thinking about it. The L is simply the alt error light signal, which did correctly cause my alternator and brake lights to glow (no bad connection there). The other is the sensing line, which provides voltage feedback to the internal regulator. If that were momentarily disconnected, wouldn't the sensed voltage be zero, and therefore the output of the alternator at its maximum? At the time I was incorrectly thinking of the S as a field wire and thinking, "Ah hah! No field, no output!" …
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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Can anyone identify what speedo and tach I have here? My car isnt in front of me, I know the tach isnt rite for my 73, but what about the speedo?
Last reply by 5thhorsemann, -
- 9 replies
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Good morning everyone and happy Thanksgiving. I just bought a 77 280Z and it is in pretty good condition over all. The thing is, I am not a "car" person. I thought I would enjoy getting into it but I am in over my head on the electrical. There are so many great posts on here but they are not working for me. I can't seem to figure out how to start a post either! I was hoping that someone could steer me to a good shop in Oregon that could look over the wiring issues in my car. Any help would be appreciated. John
Last reply by 240260280z, -
Won't start 1 2
by mjr45- 18 replies
- 1.9k views
First off, I am totally ignorant when it comes to electrical issues, I can diagnose most mech issues but electrical, I'm lost. I recently finished a major redo of my 75, put the engine and tranny back in and reconnected all the wiring harness. Prior to the redo, the car started and ran fine. Now the starter won't spin, the fuel pump runs, lights work, but nothing else. I do hear a solenoid click, but its not the starter. The only electrical I changed was the coil. There is a wire on the passenger side harness with a loop connector that I believe goes to the starter solenoid with the battery hot wire. I tried disconnecting it and then nothing worked.There is also 2 red w…
Last reply by mjr45, -
- 10 replies
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I'm not an ignition guy and I'm having a hard time even figuring out how to ask this question, but here goes... What are the sources of changes to base timing in the 260-280? Is there any spark timing control done in the ignition module near the passenger's feet, or is all the timing control done in the distributer with mechanical and vacuum advance? By that, I mean... I know they use the typical weights-n-springs mechanical advance in the distributer, and I also know they use a typical vacuum advance with an actuator on the side of the distributer, but is that it? Are those the only two sources of advance or is there additional RPM derived electronic controlled advance d…
Last reply by laminator, -
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Heres one for the major Z freaks (no offense) I have HLS-30 165246, near as I can tell from the Z registries that would make it a 06-73 production car, but I can't be sure as my door jamb tag is missing. So the question is , is it a 06-73 production car and is that an early or late 73 car? I understand from searching this and other sites that that makes a difference in which tach the car is equipped with.
Last reply by 5thhorsemann, -
- 6 replies
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Yesterday on the way home I noticed that my headlights weren't working, all the others i.e. sidemarkers, brakes, turn signals, etc. seem to be fine. My first thought was the combo switch but, I had it rebuilt by "Zs-ondabrain" (top notch if I say so myself!!) along with the turn signal switch back in June. So I moved on to the fuses, all were good. I've tried to see if there was ~12dcv at the lights themselves but couldn't get anything. Lastly I checked for 12dcv at the fuses in the fuse box. I got 11.8 dcv on all of the other light fuses but nada at the 2 headlight fuses!! So obviously the problem is getting power to the fuses/lights but, if this isn't the switch (which …
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
- 10 replies
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For those of you that have done a headlight conversion; have any of you modified your headlight bucket (behind the headlamp, not the sugar scoop) to be able to easily swap out new H4 bulbs without having to remove the whole assembly? I've been looking at my bucket and contemplating cutting about a 3" diameter hole at the back, but I think that the bracket holding the tension spring might be too close to cut out the back of the bucket. Has anyone successfully attempted this or will I still have to pull the whole assembly to change a bulb? Thank you,
Last reply by TheZman,
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