Suspension & Steering
Post your questions and answers about these major components of the Zcar and anything related.
2,200 topics in this forum
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I purchased steering rack boots from Rock Auto. They are Raybestos brand and they dont fit right. The rack side is too big and the tie rod side seems a little tight. Does anyone make rack boots that fit correctly on an early Series 1? If not, I guess I could clean my original ones up. No tears, just old. They are the type that slip over the rack end without any fasteners. Pretty sure these were the originals. Thanks, John
Last reply by tlorber, -
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I've looked everywhere but I'm obviously missing something. I'm looking for this kit below..... I need the bar, end links, hanger plates and mounting brackets with Urethane bushings.. After doing the rear disk brake conversion on the 260Z, the E-Brake cable bracket is now in the way, making the stock bar and body mounts obsolete or useless. Please help, Dave
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
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Does anyone have a picture showing an installed MSA rear swaybar? I'm almost done recoating my suspension parts, and then I'll be ready for the bar. This is for a '73. My main questions are regarding front to back and up/down orientation. Thanks.
Last reply by tlorber, -
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Reposting this with a different title because I wasn't getting any hits. I am rebuilding my front end this weekend and during dismantling I came across a suspension upgrade the PO had installed. After searching here I found this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25877 It describes my lower control arm bushings but doesn't talk about my T/C arm bushings. You can see in the picture the parts in question. From what I read in the above thread the control arm bushings are worth keeping to help with camber adjustment. As for the T/C bushings, I was planning on going stock with the rubber replacements for these. My questions are as follows: …
Last reply by JohnnyO, -
Hey guys This past weekend I had the Z in the air to check the brakes. While there I noticed that the right tire has a bit of play in it. When I pull it the tie rod seems to have play in it also. Have noticed when driving that the steering wheel will shake at speeds above 45 mph. I do need new tires as the ones I have are not really round anymore (I swear they look oval) but should there be any play in the front wheels? Where would one go about getting a new tie rod if it is necessary? Jan
Last reply by JohnnyO, -
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Hi Guys, im putin in new spicer u joints in the axle shafts on the weekend, any advice on how to do this? never don it before.cheers, Brett
Last reply by santamaus, -
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Ok guys I have a 1974 260z bought if for 250$. It needs some help with the suspension it's gonna be a daily driver. I was wondering if anyone knew where to get a kit for a full suspension. Or if you guys could just give me a little bit of idea on what you did to your suspension. Basically what i'm asking is how can I make it ride pretty nice without totally breaking the bank and no cutting or welding. Any help would be appreciated thanks.
Last reply by ConchZ, -
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2 years ago I redid the suspension- bushing's, ball joints, tie rod ends, shocks and springs. Went with the Tociko HP kit, the blues. Well, after daily driving last summer, I am seriously considering switching back to a more stock ride- for my taste, the HP combo is just too stiff for daily driving. I suspect the springs are probably biggest culprit in the bone-jarring feel. Could I go back to my stock springs and keep the tociko struts, or is that a bad idea? My guess is the ride height would go up due to the heavy gas charge in the struts- true? Should I just go back to stock springs and KYB G2 struts? The only other stock-type strut I can find is Monroe- any one have a…
Last reply by Arne, -
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So its the new year and i got money to blows on the datsun for once. I thinking getting Arizona Z springs but whats a good shock to back it up with? I'm rebuilding the front end as well with MSA parts new Urethane Control Arm Bushing Kits front and rear new rear aim pins and what else besides the Urethane bushings do I need for the rear pins as well?
Last reply by mayitin, -
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This thread at Hybridz got me thinking I should post something here. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127778 It's been a few years since I put the group buy together so just an FYI. As OEM replacements are NLA through nissan, for those of you with loose steering joints and are not too worried about factory originality there are replacements available through Woodward. To the best of my knowledge they are the only company stateside who produces a 28 spline joint to mate to the Nissan rack. It seems most joints wear at the rack first, in which case one can cut the old off and weld the new joint directly to the steering shaft (smooth bore weldable unit). Th…
Last reply by preith, -
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Does anyone know why there is so much space between the mustache bar mounting bolts/studs on the car and the sleeves that go inside the urethane bushings? (the original bushing sleeves have just as much space by the way). I would think that something meant to counter the torque of the diff would have a tighter fit. By the way, I wanted to thank all for the info on this site. Removing the old mustache bar bushings took a grand total of about 20 minutes per side due to the procedures described.
Last reply by beandip, -
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http://www.carpartsdiscount.com/auto/parts/70/nissan/240z/suspension_steering.html?3594=1948:paranoid:Hey, just wondering if anyone has ordered parts from this source? The prices seem to be very good, especially for the steering rack. The Meyle lower ball joints are very cheap, anyone used them?
Last reply by tlorber,
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Richard McDonel
