Suspension & Steering
Post your questions and answers about these major components of the Zcar and anything related.
2,201 topics in this forum
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- 17 replies
- 3.8k views
Hey guys, I have a '74 260Z that I've been working on for close to a year now. I've just been tinkering with the L26, even though it's shot. Anyways, if it makes much difference, there's gonna be an L28ET in there instead. I want to convert it to PS. Is it basically a swap from the 280ZX or am I gonna have to fabricate parts and cut holes and stuff... Thanks for the help!
Last reply by alternativez, -
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hey all , thank for all the tips ! I tore down the front end as planned and discovered that my ball joints were loose as I thought '' comes from late nites and a few molson Canadians . brought the b\joints to 55 ft lbs and then went through everything else including new wheel bearings and liners , new brake pads and bleeding the M\C and front brake lines. As well went to the front end specialty shop and had them re-balance the tires and do a alignment . They determined that the right rear wheel has a slight bend which can be repaired and the also suggested that I try to find adjustable t\c rods so they could set the castor . Not sure if those type of T|C rods are availab…
Last reply by fuzze, -
Everyone: I took apart a rusty sad example of a 73 the other day, and found what appear to be a decent set of Bilstein strut inserts waiting to be rescued. Part numbers are P 30 061 (front) in green and P 30 062 (rear) in yellow. The posts on Bilstein shocks for Z's are far and few between, but they seem (ed) well regarded. And as far as Bilstein themselves, they seem to be long since NLA from them. Their action feels smooth in both directions, nice and firm, there is no signs of rust or abuse, the strut gland nuts are clean and came out easily. There, that's everything nice about them that means absolutely nothing about how they might perform when actually in …
Last reply by AZ-240z, -
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The previous owner put these flares on, not me.. I think he cut the fenders out to far, the wheel gap is HUGE. I don't want to get bigger wheels because i enjoy the ones i have, but i'm wondering if there is a spring that will lower the car down about 1.5-2'' to make up this gap.
Last reply by jmortensen, -
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Ok, so after months of research, asking questions and generally pissing people off, (around here) I finally went and done it. I ordered my springs and adjuster sleeves for all 4 corners. So looking at the FSM, I see all the little widgets and gizmos involved in the strut assembly. So my question is, what all of them should be replaced in the referb? Obviously, some would simply say all. I would think things like the gland nut which came with the new struts would be a gimmi, but what about the strut bearing and isolator? What about the bumpers, which do not appear to be there? Or the strut isolators? Any of you fine people that have gone with adjuster sleeves like the G.C…
Last reply by 70 Cam Guy, -
- 24 replies
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Some jagoff used a 1600 ft lbs. torque wrench apparently to put this POS gland nut on this crappy Datsun designed strut tube (heaven forbid you actually you use a real strut instead of this cartridge) assembly. I have big arse set of channel locks and the strut clamped in my vise below the spring perch and this sonofabitch is not turning. Do they make a socket for an air impact to get this nut off? How do you get these off without destroying your tube and spindle? How deep does this thing go in to the tube? My struts I can put by hand in to the tube and they don't pop back out, would it be safe to apply heat? Whoever thought of this at Datsun is a retard.
Last reply by beermanpete, -
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I have my rear suspension all out of the car and I want to knock out my stub axles to remove my backing plates for a rear disc conversion. At this time I want to replace my wheel bearings and seals. How in the hell do you get those stub axles out? I used my air impart to remove the axle nut, and beat on the stub with my dead blow shot peen hammer last night, and they would not budge. Would PB Blaster loosen them up enough to beat them out? Bigger hammer?
Last reply by 240Z-Fan, -
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im looking for springs that handle good in street and some performence. my 78 280z right now has about 4 inches from tire to fender on back and almost six in front. have tokico shocks infront and replaced back with monroe. i want the ride to be a little stiffer, what brand are good without killing my wallet. this are temparery till i save enough to go all adjustable.
Last reply by 5thhorsemann, -
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I installed some TechnoToyTuning lower control arms this weekend in an effort to get some negative camber to help my understeer issue. I'm surprised that my eibach/tokico setup left me at zero camber in the fist place. The TTT arms seem well engineered by the way, but I started running out of tie rod end link threads before I could get the desired camber. I stopped at 1/2" which gave me only around -2 degree camber, but that seems like too few threads. What is the minimum amount of thread length that I can safely run?
Last reply by John Coffey, -
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Just did the fornt struts and replaced the old torn rubber boots with the KYB boots. Don't bother they don't fit and are a waste of time, effort and money. They have "built in bump stop" which is the only positive, but I'm not sure even that is any good, since its a rubber piece that fits into the top of the boot.
Last reply by JohnnyO, -
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Hello, I have a question, I looked up earliest parts catalogs both LHD and RHD, springs are exactly same for both.(except Z432,of course this car is RHD only) I thought the reason of front springs are different right side and left side because of the driver and related systems weight( steering/pedals/guages e.t.c), but seems not. Because of what? I think LHD should have inverted springs right side and left side. All S30 have longer spring on the right side than left side, they become same length when installed.Please see attached picture. Long spring means soft(confortable) ? or stiff ? If it means soft, I can see this is reasonable for RHD cars, but I do not get…
Last reply by kats, -
- 12 replies
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Hi all ,as you all know I rebuilt the front end just like everyone else here including poly bushings all around except for the t\c , which is half rubber \ poly . Cut to the chase , I just put new speed rated h , 14 inch federal fomoza tires on my original shelby libres , computer balanced . New outer tie rods , ball joints , end links and tokiko lowering springs and blue tokiko struts . The car drives straight as a arrow but the steering wheel shakes after 45- 50 mph to the point where i will not drive it beyond city speed driving . My suspicions are that I did not torque the ball joints to the proper setting and i think that the steering rack needs a professional to…
Last reply by 70 Cam Guy,
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