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Stumbled across this transmission mount for sale on eBay. $200 for a crossmember and broken mount. Wow. If I'd known that prices would be so high I might have held on to some of my parts collection. https://ebay.us/m/O5Lr3p

Here's a way to clean your old tank if you ever decide to. 🤣🤣😁

I don't know if you've seen this, hadn't read the whole thread, but you should see the little mark in or close by the notch in the sprocket.

Not sure what it means but I misspelled hoses above as hosea. Prophet of Doom. No offense intended to anyone. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hosea

This is the book you want for doing your electrical tests. It is more clear than the FSM. Do your testing at the ECU plug and get actual reistance readings if you can. The water temperature sensor is important for determining the fuel-air ratio. Make a list of each reading. Most people go too fast looking for the quick find and fix. Then they have to go back and do it all over again. Been there. If the reading at the ECU is wrong then work your way out to the engine. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/32-efi-book-1980/ The smoke from the throttle body would be through the auxiliary air regulator (AAR). It is open when cold to allow a high idle speed. It's the torpedo shaped thing with two big hosea and an electrical connector. Not sure what's up with the fuel pump readings since the engine started. If you get it running well engough to drive it and it pops back and bucks, try the fuel tweak. https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html Deeper and deeper he goes...😈

Exciting news! Cylinders 2 and 5 seem to have faulty injectors! As per the fsm prescribed method for testing them!

There is also no continuity at the fuel pump contact points.( 10 and 20 ) the test performed by checking for continuity at these pins with the air flow meter door depressed .

Well. I have blown out my fuel lines and replaced the fpr. The car started would idle terribly and the engine would not accelerate i let it run some and then checked the plugs AND THEY WEREN'T FOWLED! Next thing I did was a smoke test on the vacume sytem there seems to be a significant amount of leakage past the throttle plate as I introduced the smoke into the intake behind the throttlebody, yet it poured out as if the throttle was open. Any advice about ? Is it a faulty bccd aar? It doesn't seem right to me . So next I went back to the continuity tests in the fsm , but when I got to air flow meter pins the pins in the harness are empty. (Where as the schematic lists them as being used by the air flow meter .) There are pins at the indicated location for the airflow meter temp sensor. But there is no continuity .(6 and 27) I suppose I will go on with the continuity tests but if anyone has a 77 specific fsm continuity test sequence for the airflow meter it would be greatly appreciated. Well. So it goes thanks again everyone!

Ha, fantastic. Thanks Steve.

If you can get to Harbor Freight tomorrow, here's a coupon for the large and small picks: https://go.harborfreight.com/coupons/2025/07/184225-69592/

Thanks Guys, some excellent advice on tools, approach and lubricants. I'll get on it tomorrow and post some feedback on how it goes. Thank you.

Get a couple of 90 degree picks, 1 large & 1 small. Round off the tips so you don't poke through the hose. First, work the small one around the lip of the hose to break it loose. Then, follow up with the larger one. After you break the adhesion, put some silicon grease on the larger pick and work it around again. Try the tongue-and-groove pliers to twist back and forth until it breaks free.

If the worst should happen and you damage the filler tube I have a used one in excellent condition that I will let go at a very resonable price.

Be patient. Space heater to warm the whole thing up? (Here, this time of year, we wouldn't be having that problem...) I wouldn't use pliers. I'd try prying the end of the filler hose away from the tank (or the tank away from the filler hose - which ever way you want to look at it.) with one or two long prying tools (whatever works to catch the edge of the hose without harm - thin or wide) Long screwdrivers? Flat pry bar? Regular pry bar? Non-metallic pry tool? But you do need to somehow break the "bond" that the rubber has made with the steel inlet tube. Then treat the filler hose with Meguiar's Hyper Dressing...

Found a picture that I took in the "let's see if that would really work" phase. In this picture the "mounting plate" (thin piece of flat aluminum) wasn't trimmed such that it would fit the clamshell. That took a bit of further modification to the shape of that plate. But it did prove that the toggle switch would be actuated by the stock turn signal components. I do not have dimensions without disassembling it. I also think it required a bit of trim on the switch handle for the end of it to fit properly in the "plastic thingy" of the turn signal assembly. (plastic thingy - which happens to be on thingaverse as a 3d printable item...) I got this metal toggle at O'Reilly but they can be had everywhere. You can see that the stock switch is much more compact and a little searching might find a smaller toggle than this one - and possibly with less protrusive electrical connectors... I wanted something simple and common.

I am replacing my gas tank (rust issues) with a new one from S30. I have everything unhooked but the main filler hose that is connected to the tank. I've used slip joint plies that won't budge it and also gentle heating with a heat gun. The tank has been empty for months and i blew a bunch of air through it first. Also afraid that if I get the rubber too soft I might just deform it with the pliers. It looks like new main filler hoses are going for about 125 to 175 dollars so I want to avoid that. Right now the tank is just hanging loose under the car on a support I've set up. Any ideas are welcomed.

I didn't replace the turn signal - just the switch. And it can only be done relatively simply in the '74-'78. 240Z switches have too many contacts and functions intertwined with the overly complicated hazard switch to be replaced by a simple three position rocker switch. If I didn't have to take mine apart in the 100+ Arizona heat, I'd take a picture. I'll see if I can find the post that put me in that direction - it was not my brainchild.

I've worked with both and they're basically the same but the 240Z switch has two arms and double the contacts plus an extra for the hazard switch bypass. They definitely figured a less complicated circuit starting with the 260.

Ha! That links back to a post I did almost 7 years ago about using pop rivets to secure the sqeegee rubber to the belt molding, similar to how I did the replacment fuzzy strips to the door panel. @Patcon Charles, If you need some info I can pull off a molding and get some pics of the pop rivets.

Here's what I came up with. Sorry to be late Charles. https://www.google.com/search?q=chrome+door+trim+window+sweeps+classiczcars.com&sca_esv=4aa233782b511ba8&rlz=1C1VDKB_enUS1121US1121&ei=sHp2aOugI72TwbkPlr_I2Qg&ved=0ahUKEwjruOPMnb-OAxW9STABHZYfMosQ4dUDCBA&uact=5&oq=chrome+door+trim+window+sweeps+classiczcars.com&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiL2Nocm9tZSBkb29yIHRyaW0gd2luZG93IHN3ZWVwcyBjbGFzc2ljemNhcnMuY29tMggQABiABBiiBDIIEAAYgAQYogQyCBAAGIAEGKIEMggQABiiBBiJBTIIEAAYgAQYogRIpV9Q5QZYnztwAXgAkAEAmAGBAqABwhKqAQYwLjE3LjG4AQPIAQD4AQGYAhKgAqgSwgIOEAAYgAQYsAMYhgMYigXCAggQABiwAxjvBcICCxAAGIAEGLADGKIEwgILEAAYsAMYogQYiQXCAgUQABjvBcICChAhGKABGMMEGArCAgQQIRgKmAMAiAYBkAYJkgcGMS4xNi4xoAeNT7IHBjAuMTYuMbgHoxLCBwYwLjQuMTTIBzo&sclient=gws-wiz-serp

Thanks Jim! Thanks for the input Garrett. I was using google exactly that way and couldn't find it...

@cgsheen1 Can you provide an example of a turn signal you used as a replacement?

Did you clean all the new rotors with brake cleaner when installing them?

No biggie, just funning. There are some maybe's. I have a bunch of switches, just not marked as to what they are from. I rely on the visual differences. Graphics, plugs, wires, etc. They did change the switch plugs over the years too. I purchased the headlight and the parking/taillight harness from Dave Irwin long ago and have not had a problem since. I have H4 headlight bulbs and bright tail/ side lights. I did open and clean all my switches myself as well. Made all the difference. Still working well.

Oops. My post was about the "maybe". We're still on maybe. Maybe somebody has a 240Z and a 280Z switch that they could compare. Not that it would matter much. Just interesting.