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Yarb started following Horn Relay Location on a 1978
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Horn Relay Location on a 1978
I have a 78 as well. My car currently has the dash out and I can tell you there aren’t any relays behind the glove box. Have you referenced the FSM? There are 3 locations the relays are located. Engine bay housing rh fender, under dash LH side of steering wheel. 3rd location rh side near the fuse box. Someone here on this forum can point you directly to the location.
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TomoHawk started following Horn Relay Location on a 1978
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Horn Relay Location on a 1978
Higuys, The horn suddenly went off at 6AM as if the relay welded itself, on a Sunday, so it's not moisture-related. I drove it the night before and it was warm (90) and dry. Can you access the horn relay on a 1978 280Z without taking the glovebox out? Is it under the hood on the relay bracket? The FSM diagram isn't clear about it, but to say it looks like it's near the wiper relay, which means you gotta take the glovebox out. I have a relay on order, so I just want to drive it s few times until I take it to the shop on July 14th.If I can get to it, I can swap it myself. ThxZ
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- 1973 Rebuild
280ZX Brake MC is ready to go! I tore this apart several years ago thinking it would be a short project, but the rebuild kit I had turned out to be for the one made by Tokico (large perforated disc residual valves) and this one is made by Nabco (small rubber duckbill residual valves, see below). I had messed around with trying to rejuvenate the reservoirs. I had read you could cover it in a solution of oxy clean and hydrogen peroxide gel under UV light for 24 hours and it would take the yellow out. It lightened it up, but they’re still clearly yellow. Super clean, though. I also did some chemistry on some of the hardware. The bleeders and reducers for this thing are not common sizes (the reducers are m16x1.0 to m10x1.0) and after two weeks of searching for replacements I gave up and decided to try chemically coating them. I didn’t want to do the hardcore hot bluing or zinc methods because of the chemicals, so I used the rust bluing method. Basically, you soak them in white vinegar to strip off the rust, zinc, and anything else on them. Then you paint them with a paracetic acid / salt solution (8 parts hydrogen peroxide:1 part white vinegar + as much salt as it will dissolve). Dry it with a heat gun and throw it into a double boiler. You’ll see the rust turn black, which is when it turns into iron oxide. Buff it with steel wool and repeat until satisfied, then soak for 24 hours in motor oil. They came out okay. I was hoping they would look more like the pistons, but this is what they look like after four rounds of the process, so it’s going to have to be good enough. Fingers crossed that they don’t just immediately corrode. You could also do the phosphoric acid version (cold bluing), but this makes a harder coating of iron oxide. Then I just had to hone the cylinder, flush it with 91% alcohol, wipe it out, and reassemble. I kept the Tokico 240Z reservoir caps since I didn’t wire the car for ZX caps (PN: 46020-U6701) with the fluid level sensors and don’t have the metal (PN: 46020-K2401) or plastic (PN: 46020-N6000) Nabco caps. Maybe later if I can find a set for less than €53.40. It looks pretty good after test fitting it. I’m waiting for a dust cover and O-ring in the mail, then I can install it and bleed the brakes.- Is anyone there?
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The San Francisco treat? We are enthusiasts and if we have the money, collectors. You should put your time and effort into https://bringatrailer.com/datsun/240z/ Or stick with Pelican and boy bands, we are old idiots that don't work but enjoy helping other Z car owners. When you are an owner we'll be here with open arms. Jal gasyeo- Yesterday
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- Z's on BAT and other places collection
SpeedRoo - If you're interested in more on this subject, like the 3 iterations, I'll be glad to talk on the phone or through email however this crowd clearly is fixated on that distant shiny object as opposed to facts on this greasy, dirty planet. I'll leave it at that. For those 2 chaps that responded to my question about the application of the replated parts. They will be going on what is probably my last restoration - 1972 Datsun 510 Wagon.- Is anyone there?
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