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The 7-piece kit, black 80/20 loop. When I spoke to them they said that was better feel than “OEM” and better wearing that cut pile. It does have good feel.

I finally got the exhaust on my car and took it for a drive. After about 15 miles, the front brakes are getting hot. After it cools down, they're both free-ish, slight dragging. Leaving the lines on the master cylinder, I pulled it away from the master-vac. Then screwed the push rod in a ways. I also adjusted the clevis on the brake pedal a couple turns. Took it for another drive today, trying not to hit the brakes, after about 15 miles, got home, jacked the front of the car up, brake pads are tight against the rotors, both left and right. Ugh. Both the master cylinder and master-vac were rebuilt. I did put new pads after restoring the calipers. Whatever it is, it's affecting both left and right brakes equally on the front. When I found this car, it had a later master cylinder on it, with a long tip on the push rod. When I tried to bolt the older correct master cylinder on, it wouldn't fit, the push rod was too long. Fortunately, I had the master-vac that had the shorter push rod in it. I thought I measured everything right, and it bolted up. Anybody got any suggestions? I don't like spilling brake fluid on fresh paint! Why aren't those calipers retracting?

Under the “choose options”, Can you tell us which one you chose and why? I see they will send you up to 3 different samples.

They only showed two kit options when I looked for 240zs. There are several fabric and color options though. https://newarkauto.com/pages/search?Make/Datsun/Model/240Z/Year/1973 ••• By the way, does anyone know how to pull the residual valves (the black cones) out of a 15/16 Nabco master cylinder? The ones in the rebuild kit are not threaded. I’m assuming it’s some kind of press fit situation.

Just for completeness, the Nissan part number is 48750-E7705.

You can still just use the electrical component itself. Once you receive it you will understand what I mean.

Yarb, I suspect you are correct. That said, having lost a lot of last year with Koni front strut issues, I'm buying my way out of this distraction, asap. Get the whole for $60 or part for $32, I chose the former, and the order is already in the system.

Also to replace the back of the module, you do NOT need to remove the ignition switch. You can unplug the harnesses for the combo switch and ignition, remove the 4 bolts from the steering column bracket and lower the steering column enough to get to the screws.

@Matthew Abate Just went to the website and for my 78 model there are a ton of options. How were you able to narrow it down for your car on what to order?

IMO, The ignition key should not be your problem. It merely turns a blade that connects to the ignition switch module. I would just order the switch itself which mounts to the back side that’s held in with two small screws. You are going to end up with mismatched keys. Original set to unlock the doors and the new set to start the car. Just a suggestion

Thanks for you responses. For the cost of a replacement, I've elected to order a complete replacement. At my age I want to get her back on the road and not be distracted about the possibility of it failing again. Someday soon my Z will be my son's Z and he's not very mechanically inclined. Thanks, George

I had a 1978 igntion switch with that problem. I was able to fix it by restaking the copper contact with a chisel. You'll need to remove the switch and disassemble it. Or, it could be that the mechanical portion is worn and not turning the electrical contact far enough. I fixed that on my 76 by putting some extra twist in the rod between the mechanical and electrical parts. Once you get the switch out and examine it you can test either possibility with a meter. Stole this from ZCarDepot to show the staked contacts. https://zcardepot.com/products/ignition-starter-switch-240z-260z-280z-510 And here's the back side where the rod inserts.

Steve, The source of the problem has to do with the ignition switch and/or the ignition key receptor. The solenoid is working as it should. Zed Head, I have narrowed down the problem to the ignition switch and/or the barrel that accepts the key. As is, both keys are originals and I'm thinking they might need replacing. Just now, I have discovered that if I apply either up or down pressure on the key as I'm turning (rotating) it to the START position, I can get the contact(s) needed to activate the solenoid and subsequently get the engine started. So, the question now is if this an is problem that can be readily fixed or do I start fresh with a new unit ( keys, barrel and switch). I sourced a complete replacement at Z-Car Depot for $60.00 (on sale). My preference is to fix. Thanks

It might help to add some detail about what this means. Are you saying that the starter does not spin the engine? It's just click, click, click, then spinning happens? Also, watch your gauges and the ammeter. If they all go dead, then come back to life that's a sign of a bad battery cable connection. The heat from the starter motor draw causes the bad connection to expand and open. Then it cools and closes. The small spade connection at the starter solenoid can be loose also. Same effect. I almost replaced a starter once, but instead just repinched that connector. It was loose.

The seller said he could see holes for an AC system. So he assumed that it had had AC. Who knows. It almost broke 100. 95. The winner didn't play the small bid game, every bid was a big jump. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-133/

Yes, 240 with add-on air has a 3 groove pulley. Can't speak for Spirit, well yes I can but won't, but if such a car were in my now closed shop the A/C pulley would be removed.

My 12/70 car has a 3 groove pulley. I would guess the 3rd groove was added for the dealer installed A/C.

If the solenoid works fine, the likely problems are the module on the back of the ignition switch (2 screw modules may still be available from Nissan) or corrosion in the wiring.

The ZX has a 3 groove pulley. Third groove was for the power steering pump.

@Mike

Thanks, Steve....Appreciated

Yep.

Did precision plate those door latches? They look really good!

Find a weather resistant maxi fuse (or ANL fuse) holder if you are planning to mount the fuse holder where the current fusible link holders reside. I also suggest using ferrules on the wire ends to improve clamping force on the wires. You will need to find a ferrule crimper that can handle the wire sizes (relatively easy to find on Amazon). Here is an example of a marine ANL fuse holder: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_867FUSEDIS/Wet-Sounds-WWX-FUSE.html

The click you hear is normal. That is the accessory relay. Move on from that. You need to verify voltage to ground (or negative) at the starter solenoid when the key is in START. That is the black/yellow wire. Suggested actions: Pull the black/yellow wire off the starter solenoid. Put the positive voltmeter lead on the black/yellow wire and the negative lead on the battery negative. Have your assistant turn the key to the START position. Measure the voltage (and report it here). If you have around battery voltage at the black/yellow wire, then here is the next test. Keep the black/yellow wire removed. Ensure the car is in neutral. Get a screwdriver. Touch the screwdriver to the positive cable on the starter and the spade terminal where the black/yellow wire was. You don't have to hold it there for long. If it doesn't engage the solenoid immediately, try a couple of more times. Red arrow - Spade for black/yellow wire Orange arrow - Positive cable from the battery. If the solenoid immediately engages, then your starter solenoid is probably in good shape. Report your results.