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You are correct in using this product to seal affected areas but only after the rust has been treated. From the product description: APPLICATION - Remove grease, oil, and other foreign substances using POR-15 water-based Cleaner Degreaser followed with POR-15 Metal Prep to etch the surface and neutralize rust. Stir POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating thoroughly, DO NOT SHAKE. Always apply thin coats, minimum of two. May be recoated or top coated when dry to the touch, typically 2 to 5 hours. Topcoat when surface will have exposure to UV light.

Don't expect an answer that makes sense from Max on this. He has never addressed the structural problems with the doors and points to a rust repair on the fender as proof that my car was heavily modified. He never addressed the fact that the factory door panel wouldn't fit over the ledge on the drivers door or the fact that the holes for the latch were so far off. Here is a picture I never posted showing jut how close the ledge is to the window. And yes that is a scratch in my brand new ceramic tint. You can see there is no way that the door panel is going on. The mark that the blue arrow is pointing to is where the metal part of the door panel was hitting the door so it's pretty obvious the ledge is too wide.

Yes, you did offer a replacement valance kit, but wouldn't it be the same as the one I got? If I could not use the one I got from your vendor, what makes you think the one I got from you would fit any better? I don't understand, aren't they all the same? If they're not all the same, why aren't they?

While everyone is entitled to share feedback, it is only fair to share the entire story. You purchased the lower valance kit from a distributor of ours, not from us, we did not receive anything from the sale. You asked to return just the 2 side valances, not the full kit, summit declined the return and you reached out to us. Even though we took no part in this sale, we offered to send you a completely new kit free of charge, you said that you did not want a new kit, I’m not sure what else we could have offered you at the time, I’m sorry we were not able to satisfy you.

FWIW, I bought a Resurrected Classic's valance set last fall. The body line contours weren't even close. This reproduction had contours that were over 50% wider than the original and didn't match the original fenders. I sent them back the corner valances, showed them the error. No response, no refund, just crickets. I cut and welded on the center valance, moved the holes and got it to fit. Here's some photos of the corners compared to the original.

Thanks Jim! This is what I'd used in the past whenever I found some sneaking around: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q0I62IU?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2. Thoughts on this por15 offering?

Found it. SOB. It was with the extra freeze plugs I have. Fun times! Lol. Thank you for the replies. And yes, turning the pump CCW. Gonna shoot for having it all buttoned back up by Saturday. Wish me luck!

You don't want to seal the area until you have neutralized the rust. This is a great product to kill the rust and leave a zinc phosphate protective coating before laying down the POR paint. You an get it locally at English Paint. Been there, done that! POR-15POR-15® Metal PrepRestore rusted metal objects with POR-15's Metal Pep. This metal-etching rust neutralizer provides great adhesion for coatings on any type of metal surface.

Happened to me too, engine shop didn’t put it back, “someone” forget to check if its there….. Wasn’t….. There is a back one as well…. Just have to ask, you’re spinning the priming rod CCW right?

Yeah, this "One thing that just came to mind is the oil passageway plug that goes into the front of the block. I remember pulling it out and looking at it but am now only 80%ish sure I reinstalled it." You need to verify a plug is in place.

1970. Bring a TrailerL28-Powered, 24-Years-Owned 1970 Datsun 240Z Series I 5-S...Bid for the chance to own a L28-Powered, 24-Years-Owned 1970 Datsun 240Z Series I 5-Speed at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #193,538.

I was planning on sealing the rust with por15 which works really well in a similar sense

I would think you should at least "kill" the rust. I used SEM Rust Mort on a 240 I bought then sold. It has some type acid in it and turns the rust a black, dark grey color. It keeps the rust from getting any worse is what I found from a lot of reading around the www.com.

Motorsport is ok. But you have to call them by phone to get your order sorted out. Isnt Rockauto easier or are these different quality shocks?

Pretty sure I remember reading about people using the oil pressure sending hole as a source to prime the whole block with oil (might have been @Captain Obvious , although not obvious). So, if you can rig up a way to push oil in that way it should fill the system. I am not personally familar with that plug, it should be described on the Monroe Rebuild book, but it does look like it matters if it's the one end at the end of the main passage/gallery/galley. If it was left out, the oil would not get very far after it left the pump. There would be no pressure build either. One of those borescopes would be handy.

I can remember reading about a head gasket that covers one of the oil holes but that's about all I remember. I wish you the best of luck how ever it turns out.

Why for dynamat specifically?

If you replace with Dynamat make sure you fix the rusty areas first.

I mean the pump will prime itself before installation, but it won't pump any oil in the engine when installed. The valve cover is off and there's no sign of oil movement, even at full drill speed (I tried that - lol). The original 240Z gauge does not move. I may try pulling the oil sensor out and push some oil into the block's internal passage that goes to the pump. That's where the pump pushes oil to first, correct? One thing that just came to mind is the oil passageway plug that goes into the front of the block. I remember pulling it out and looking at it but am now only 80%ish sure I reinstalled it. I'll check my workbench when I get home from work. Would that affect pressure? I did replace all the freeze plugs (except rear of block) , but none of them plug any oil passageways, correct?

What about pulling the valve cover and see if any oil is making it's way up to the cam? If you try this don't put your drill on HIGH when spinning the distributor/oil shaft. I learned that the hard way.

When you write "won't prime" do you really mean won't pump? Filling it with oil is actually the priming. How do you know it's not pumping? Oil flow to the cam shaft, reading on the gauge, or what? You might remove the oil pressure sending unit and see if oil flows from the hole when you spin the pump. Also, if you packed vaseline on the inlet side of the pump it might have trouble pulling the oil in to pump it. You can only generate atmospheric pressure on the inlet side.

Just reinstalled the L24 in my 1972 240Z after refreshing it. By that I mean remove carbs, intake, exhaust, timing cover, etc. to clean them up, repaint the block, then reassemble. I did not touch any internals of the engine or head. The car ran perfect when motor was pulled a few months ago. Now I can't get the oil to prime. I'm using a new high volume "turbo" oil pump that does prime itself with a screw driver. But using a long tool to prime the engine (counter clockwise) the engine will not prime. I've also tried packing the pump with petroleum jelly but no luck. Both the old oil pump (which was working just fine) and this new pump do the same thing: no priming of the engine. Oil pan has 5.5 quarts of oil. The only thing I can think of is the pickup tube is not air tight. But before I pull the oil pan, anyone have any ideas to check first?

@72 Datsun 240z If you go with Motorsport Auto, make sure to give them a call and ask for our club discount. You'll get some percentage off your purchase. Apologies I don't know how much the discount is right now... Your member number is 45164

Gotcha, thanks for the info. I was going to replace it with dynamat

That is the sound deadening material, AKA "tar mat", that was factory applied to the floors by Nissan. Unfortunately they applied it to bare metal. It is safe to remove, search "tar mat removal" on this site, and you find lots of ideas. Like using dry ice. If you plan to replace the tar mats later, and want close to original, see our downloads area, in the cad files section, I posted some tar mat templates there.