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Guess I'll put it here as this is, at least to this old buzzard, the path of least resistance After almost 190,000 miles and a bit of bearing noise I decided to give the 5 speed in my 78 280 the business and @ the same time address all of the related issues. At the risk of glazing the eyes of my audience I promise to be brief. I had the rear engine plate powder coated - yes, I know it was clear zinc plated from the factory but I wanted to see what my very excellent powder coater could do and the results are very satisfactory - removed 4 pounds from the stock 24 pound flywheel, had the now lightened flywheel balanced along with a new pressure plate, replaced the rear engine seal, clutch assy - used the Exedy set for probably the 100th + time in my career - flywheel and pressure plate fasteners, ALL of the trans bearings, 2nd and 3rd gear syncros, seals and gasket and had all of the related fasteners, etc. zinc replated. This past Sat I drove the 350 mile round trip to Import Carlisle - touched 100 MPH for a couple of seconds - without a hint of concern. I got those trans parts I could from Nissan - yes, I know there are some cheaper alternatives but I like the guys at my fav dealer. Those bearings that are NLA from Nissan I got from a company in Japan, Amayma. They, Amayma, provide excellent service and excellent prices for parts in the original Nissan packaging. Way back in 1971 the dealer I was working for sent me to Datsun trans school. The school held @ Datsun eastern headquarters in Secaucus, NJ. The dealer provided me with a NEW, just off the boat, 510 2 door for transportation. Yes, a new 510 2 door was capable of an indicated 100+. We were provided lunch at what was, I'm confident, a mob owned restaurant. Our instructor told us we could order ANYTHING on the menu but if we wanted lobster we had to give one day notice. Those were the days.

I would guess that either are fine shocks. The biggest difference is the Koni's are adjustable.

Early starter fuse link on left and early alt fuse link on right. I'll put it on my site when I have some spare time - retirement is SO BUSY!! Story about recent 5 speed rebuild and my time @ Datsun trans school so very long ago to be posted momentarily

I'm still waiting on a response as to why it's my fault that the door latch holes were in the wrong place and the door panel won't go over the ledge. I will say the door weatherstrips fit great and the rubber fuel filler neck fit perfectly so you do sell good parts. Just not these doors. Keep in mind I reverse engineer items and create foundry patterns based off of that gathered data. That is my business. I also reverse engineer fabricated items and make them into castable items. So when I say these doors have a problem and when I say your QC is nonexistent and when I say they aren't using welding fixtures to locate critical weld in place nuts and when I say they aren't using drilling fixtures for holes in critical areas you can take that to the bank. Because people pay me to do this. I just happen to have a Z car and I'm also a manufacturer of parts for these cars. Max you keep stating how many items you have sold as a baseline to the quality of the parts. I specifically said to you in our first conversation on the phone, how many of the 30 door sets that you sold are still sitting on someones shelf. Have you sent emails out to everyone who have purchased doors warning them of potential problems or are you just kicking the can down the road hoping for the best.

Same set up as used on the 510 wagon!

So you probably have over 100 potentially disappointed customers out there. Good luck with that. The fact that they were purchased does not mean that they are of good quality. It means that people expected good quality, like these two disappointed individuals did. Besides the possible disagreement on quality, the problem here seems to be the lack of communication. Anyway, these things are not uncommon. At least you have a dialog going now. Good luck.

It's been documented, with measurements.

Why is the assumption the parts are bad? We are the largest manufacturer of S30 parts and have great reviews, we sell hundreds of parts per month. We would not be able to do this if the parts were poor quality. We have sold over 100+ of the lower valance kits and are on our second batch now, this is the first return of this item we’ve had. We have less than 1 percent returns year after year, the allegations that the parts are “poor quality” based on the feedback of a few individuals that were offered help/other options does not seem like a fair assessment.

That answers the Summit question. But it looks like you know that the parts are bad but are trying to hold on to the money that you received for the first set of bad parts. It's like the old ads for lifetime replacements. Replace bad with bad. Long-term the remaining question is "are you addressing the poor part quality?" Will anybody buying parts in the future get the same bad parts or will they get new "fixed" parts? You haven't said that the parts are actually good, you've only said that the individuals paid for them and that you'll replace bad with more bad.

The customer ordered it from Summit, they declined the return because he used one of the pieces and only wanted to return the other 2 pieces. We offered to send him a new kit for free, I would call that “eating it” would you not? We didn’t get his order but were still offering a solution.

Outsider view - it looks like Resurrected Classics got screwed over by thier supplier and has decided to pass the damage on to their customers instead of eating it as the cost of doing business. But, there is a question about Summit. If the parts were purchased through Summit why not return them through Summit? Summit has more leverage than an individual customer. Give Resurrected Classics the details, but return through Summit. If Summit stops selling the parts, then the responsibility goes back to where it belongs. Companies that get their products from off-shore suppliers really hate to get returns. Probably because they have to eat the cost. Communicating with companies in Asia is very difficult. I got a bad mirror from MSA many years ago, obviously bad, the image looked like a funhouse mirror, and it took some serious persuading to get them to send me a good one. Probably because the bad one could not be fixed, it was garbage. MSA had to but two mirrors to get paid for one. Commenting more from the perspective of how global business works. Many ways to get screwed. I wonder if Alibaba is involved. https://www.alibaba.com/

I spent good money to ship these corner valances back to him so he could see the problem which I marked with tape. Never heard a word.... I bought a set of pre-cut firewall pads from somewhere... they sat for a long time before I was ready to install them, like 2 years. The drivers side holes didn't match up with the holes in the firewall. I cut them more but now it looked like a hack job and I wasn't happy with it. So, I contacted the manufacturer and showed them the problem, maybe their jig slipped or the tooling got moved, something. I then ordered a blank piece and cut it out myself using my original as a template. The response I got was, "you're the first person to complain about these, it must be your car, we're not changing our tooling". Really! You're going to keep making them this way, that don't fit correctly? That don't line up? Unbelievable. There was something else I returned that didn't fit right, the response was, "we only get 2 or 3 returns a year". What kind of response is that? It's basically saying the problem is not our product, it's you. 🤣

You are correct in using this product to seal affected areas but only after the rust has been treated. From the product description: APPLICATION - Remove grease, oil, and other foreign substances using POR-15 water-based Cleaner Degreaser followed with POR-15 Metal Prep to etch the surface and neutralize rust. Stir POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating thoroughly, DO NOT SHAKE. Always apply thin coats, minimum of two. May be recoated or top coated when dry to the touch, typically 2 to 5 hours. Topcoat when surface will have exposure to UV light.

Don't expect an answer that makes sense from Max on this. He has never addressed the structural problems with the doors and points to a rust repair on the fender as proof that my car was heavily modified. He never addressed the fact that the factory door panel wouldn't fit over the ledge on the drivers door or the fact that the holes for the latch were so far off. Here is a picture I never posted showing jut how close the ledge is to the window. And yes that is a scratch in my brand new ceramic tint. You can see there is no way that the door panel is going on. The mark that the blue arrow is pointing to is where the metal part of the door panel was hitting the door so it's pretty obvious the ledge is too wide.

Yes, you did offer a replacement valance kit, but wouldn't it be the same as the one I got? If I could not use the one I got from your vendor, what makes you think the one I got from you would fit any better? I don't understand, aren't they all the same? If they're not all the same, why aren't they?

While everyone is entitled to share feedback, it is only fair to share the entire story. You purchased the lower valance kit from a distributor of ours, not from us, we did not receive anything from the sale. You asked to return just the 2 side valances, not the full kit, summit declined the return and you reached out to us. Even though we took no part in this sale, we offered to send you a completely new kit free of charge, you said that you did not want a new kit, I’m not sure what else we could have offered you at the time, I’m sorry we were not able to satisfy you.

FWIW, I bought a Resurrected Classic's valance set last fall. The body line contours weren't even close. This reproduction had contours that were over 50% wider than the original and didn't match the original fenders. I sent them back the corner valances, showed them the error. No response, no refund, just crickets. I cut and welded on the center valance, moved the holes and got it to fit. Here's some photos of the corners compared to the original.

Thanks Jim! This is what I'd used in the past whenever I found some sneaking around: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q0I62IU?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2. Thoughts on this por15 offering?

Found it. SOB. It was with the extra freeze plugs I have. Fun times! Lol. Thank you for the replies. And yes, turning the pump CCW. Gonna shoot for having it all buttoned back up by Saturday. Wish me luck!

You don't want to seal the area until you have neutralized the rust. This is a great product to kill the rust and leave a zinc phosphate protective coating before laying down the POR paint. You an get it locally at English Paint. Been there, done that! POR-15POR-15® Metal PrepRestore rusted metal objects with POR-15's Metal Pep. This metal-etching rust neutralizer provides great adhesion for coatings on any type of metal surface.

Happened to me too, engine shop didn’t put it back, “someone” forget to check if its there….. Wasn’t….. There is a back one as well…. Just have to ask, you’re spinning the priming rod CCW right?

Yeah, this "One thing that just came to mind is the oil passageway plug that goes into the front of the block. I remember pulling it out and looking at it but am now only 80%ish sure I reinstalled it." You need to verify a plug is in place.

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I was planning on sealing the rust with por15 which works really well in a similar sense

I would think you should at least "kill" the rust. I used SEM Rust Mort on a 240 I bought then sold. It has some type acid in it and turns the rust a black, dark grey color. It keeps the rust from getting any worse is what I found from a lot of reading around the www.com.