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Keith buy a battery bolt and round off two of the corners with a grinding wheel, https://www.amazon.com/Wilmar-W1680C-Battery-Terminal-Bolt/dp/B0076EVKO8

My mechanic really sucks. Look at the way he set my timing. He argues that everything needs to be subject to trial and error. I know i have a schneider 274f cam installed but 20 degrees?

There was a solid clue during setup...when sliding the connectors into the harness...they are whisper-tight. Meaning: Not at all. Solid money is on worn out/loose harness connectors but we'll see if banging on ECU does anything after the normal "give up and die" timeframes of 20-40 mins.

Know this is an old thread. Nevertheless, while checking the su carb set ups and other things, i found out the last mechanic had set the timing as attached. I do have a schneider 274F camshaft. Shouldnt i have 14 degrees the most? I guess my timing is really out of spec. Mechanic set as as shown in the pic. Shouldnt it be lower?

The test is still running for the next hour....but so far here is the score so far: Team "Replace ECU": 0 Team "NOT the ECU": 1 8.mov

Test rig installed...

Great! Any suggestion on how to duplicate the bolt head? Thanks, Keith

Keith I picked up a NOS 240Z battery cable off EBay and it has the rounded head.

That said, the test rig is ready to roll. Time for quick bite and then, ACTION!

Because the curious mind must KNOW. For me, owning a classic car is really the journey. I get great satisfaction from understanding all the ins-and-outs of...well, anything. If I drive it, fly it, sail it, race it, ride it, eat it, grow it, run it in my house or office, or if it has moving parts or does anything that impacts my life in any meaningful way, I am driven to know how the thing works, and/or how to build/repair/grow/write/create my own. I like making things.

I’ve seen those bolts with the one flat side that keeps it from spinning when you tighten the nut. I remember having to wedge a flat head screw driver underneath to keep it from spinning.

I am in the process of refurbishing a pair of original battery terminal cables. After removing the terminal clamp bolt on the negative cable, I noted that bolt (6.0 mm x 1.00 mm x 1-1/4") had a rounded “U” head to match the profile of the terminal clamp. As you can see from the attached photos, there is no indication that the bolt head was modified with added metal to reshape a square or hex head bolt to form the rounded edge. Has anyone else seen a terminal clamp bolt with this rounded “U” head? Thanks, Keith

Patrick Bateman's favorite song.

This was a huge help for me since I had no clue about the carbs. I'll also add mine was a hard start too until I adjusted the valves. That helped a lot.

S30.World.com, order one and consider it done.

I have to ask why not just keep a set of spares that are still functional and enjoy the car? I applaud you for trying to fix the ECU if that is the end result you are looking for.

hanks for the tips, I was using the choke. I need to give the carbs a once over in general, as it hasn't started right since I got it, I just had to deal with the gas tank first (which has taken forever) so haven't had a chance to get back to it, but slowly getting there

Extensions just need some heat shrink but are otherwise ready. Testing tomorrow is go.

Well, sports fans, it looks like we are in luck. Tick-tock.

Or Jegg's possibly? I would think you could find one on the side of the road. It's not like it's a radiator cap for the space shuttle. Your OCD is making things a lot tougher than they are.

I can hardly wait until you start bashing it with a hammer as Zed Head mentioned, then posting the results. Should be a hoot!

Actually, I should first do what @Captain Obvious suggested and check the choke coils. Then the above. I'm afraid I have honey-dos today so this will have to wait until tomorrow but I'm sure everyone is on pins and needles...

Hey Z-sters! I'm finally getting around to addressing the hood on my '72 240Z, which had been banged up, bondo-ed and repainted under previous ownership and needed to be addressed. I removed the paint from the corners, to evaluate and repair/strengthen before repainting. (see my attached photos attached). Can anyone send me photos of the underside of a 240z hood - specifically the front lip corners and middle as shown in my photos) so I know how it SHOULD look? Buch appreciated in advance! Jughead

Many thanks to you both. I love the idea of testing with the lid off, I should have thought of that. Since the refurb unit won't be here until mid-week I think what I will do in the interim is the following: 1) Assuming I have enough connectors in my bins, make 26 individual extensions so I can "plug the harness" without actually attaching it to the ECU 2) Install the ECU sans case, but connected with my 26 little piggies 3) Run the system 4) Thump the free-floating harness plug 5) Wiggle/Tug every individual connection 6) Use a spudger to do delicate tap/wiggle tests on every little thing inside This should be interesting.