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Nobody's taken the bait yet though.

The seller seems like a bald-faced liar. How do all of those spider webs stay intact if the engine ran for even a few seconds? It has the classic "sheep-skin" seat covers. "This is an early VIN (HLS30-10683) Series 1 240Z, built in late 1969, ... This is an unrestored, preserved survivor — a prime candidate for either a light cosmetic restoration or to keep as an authentic time capsule. Driving & Mechanical: Engine turns freely and runs, though due to extended storage, it is recommended that the buyer perform a full service before regular driving. All original mechanical components remain intact. Documentation: Original mileage verified through ownership history."

The battery tray looks pretty good if you ignore the 5# mouse nest underneath it 😀

Cool, super helpful. I found it sitting right where you show it.......... Switched the hazard and turn signal flasher, and the turn signal still work. No hazards....... I got out the factory wiring, and it shows the blue / white wire should be 12V from the fuse box. I just used my meter and I don't have 12V at the wire at the flasher. Actually no 12v on either wire.....Will go check the fuse box again,,,,,,,, I did noticed that when I have the hazard switch turned on the turn signals don't work. As soon as I turn the hazards off, the turn signals work fine. That looks to be correct with the wiring diagram and give me "some" assurance that the hazard switch is working correctly......

Here it is over hiding against the passenger side relays just behind the vent pull rod.

I thought the series one cars do not use a relay on the rear glass since there is no lighted switch....... I know the first 240z had no defroster.... Mine does have the lines on it with a black switch on the console....

Here is a general guide to the relays. There are two on the passenger kick panel one called acc. and one for the rear hatch. I seem to remember a flasher relay over there too.

They've added some pictures for the "barn find". The steering wheel is not from a early car, it has a cap on the dash, caked sludge on the oil pump, you can see rust in the picture looking down on the driver rocker... Engine bay is also in the new pictures, pretty scary looking.

Interesting, so where on the series one car is the flasher relay for hazard? I see the one under the steering wheel, don't see the other one........ Does the "accessory relay" control the heated glass?

Do you think your fan clutch (Tem-coupling) was working correctly? Supposed to hold fan speed in a narrow range.

Car parts manual shows as "Relay For Heat Glass"

The large white with red made me think it was a primary relay...

I thought that relay was for the Hatch defroster? I could be wrong. I don't think it is as turn signal flasher though, they are the round 2 wire canister looking ones.

Thanks Ernest, I have the large laminated wiring diagram. Makes tracing much easier

I'll check the old switch but I don't think it closed in a short enough distance either

Is that the accessory relay?

I went through some weird blinker issues and it turned out to be a connector pin in the harness near the glove box had pushed out of the connector. I think I have a large laminated wire diagram if you need one.

That’s called growing Old “ Gracefully”!

@patcon send me a pm. I have a new Nissan switch

Okay, this is weird, but I'll mention it anyway. I bought a new fan blade (just like that) from Nissan and it was great - OR would have been if I had a stock radiator maybe. But I installed a Koyo 240Z radiator in my early 260. The Koyo is probably a bit thicker than stock - although there looked like plenty of room between fan and radiator. I drove my new setup a bit and pulled back into the shop. The radiator was leaking coolant. It had been hit from behind. I couldn't figure it out. (I first thought it was a defect I didn't see) The new fan had blades just a smidge longer than the old, hard blade I had been using. And they were nice and fresh and supple (well, much more so than my old crusty fan). What I EVENTUALLY found after I almost ruined a SECOND Koyo radiator: The stinking longer, more flexible blades of the new fan were flexing FORWARD ENOUGH for the tips to reach the radiator. Fast spinning nylon beats aluminum tubes and fins. (Koyo is side tank and the fan didn't hit the center, it hit the inside of the right-side tank and the tip of the blade was then pushed into the tube and fins on that side only - right next to the tank) Check the forward motion of the fan blades at speed. (having said that, I've found NO BETTER radiator than the Koyo for my Phoenix, AZ, daily driven, A/C pumping, turbo swapped, intercooled early 260Z - and I'm still using that old, hard fan... The new one is sitting on the shelf.)

I'd be surprised if you couldn't still get one from Nissan but my local O'Reilly's can get an aftermarket one in store in an hour for a stock transmission. (also, if you dig away the black goo that the two wires come out of on the original switch, you'll find a couple of brass solder tabs in there that what's left of the wire will still be soldered to. a bit of wire and a male and female bullet connector (with insulators)... Fill the cavity back up with silly cone - just sayin')

nice, thanks for the quick numbers to look up. I think this relay is the issue with too much current being pulled when the flashers were on....... Are the relay the same for series one cars and other 240z?

So I need a little help. I still don't have turn signals even with a new electronic flasher. I have tried a three wire with a ground and a two wire. I will save that for Cody at the moment. The other problem for the day is reverse lights. The switch I have has the leads torn off. So I ordered a new one for a 280zx transmission from a Z vendor I bought a number of things from and like doing business with. The new switch does not trigger fast enough. That is to say the plunger has to travel too far to make the circuit. It appears the plunger is brass so that seems to rule out adding metal to it with the welder. Is there another way to source a better switch? One that needs less travel or one with the plunger a little longer... The switch needs to trigger before the length is below 0.73". The new one needs to travel about 0.125" more to trigger

You can look for 1156 & 1157 bulbs on Amazon in all different colors. One bulb is a single filament one bulb is a dual filament

Thanks for the notes, I will check the passenger side relay panel again. I didn't see anything that is like the flasher unit for the turn signals. But will take another look. There was a small rectangular unit that looked like it was "ticking" when I put the hazards on, but maybe I missed something. Will try to get a picture I will check out changing the tail lights out to LED, maybe that will drop the current. I might put an amp meter inline with the fuse to see if I can get a reading Didn't know they made red LED tail light replacement for the z car type bulbs..... will check into that. I am going to run a wire to the horn to make sure I am getting 12v there when I hit the horn. Thanks for the help