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Bidding is on right now. Check out these two pictures.

Recently I've seen a few classic cars for sale on BaT by sellers that don't seem to know much about what collectors are looking for. Here's a 1971 240Z that has some interesting comments. The seller uses the typical "Series 1" terminology but then doesn't know where the firewall VIN is stamped. Lesson for owners - find a knowledgable seller if you want to get maximum value from your car. This one has a big gouge out of the paint now, even though you could see the number through the paint anyway. Yikes. Lanciafan (The Seller) This author's likes: 1,262 @Pivo, we are not sure what firewall vin you are referring to? I have looked in the motor bay but don’t see any other numbers. Bring a Trailer1971 Datsun 240Z Series I 4-SpeedBid for the chance to own a 1971 Datsun 240Z Series I 4-Speed at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #201,028.

Happy to hear that I can help. I had no idea I had a fan. Lol

You're welcome. I have received a lot of help from this forum, and I'm grateful to hear that my "documenting of work" posts are useful to others. I agree that are experiences were similar on the fuel tank. Cheers, Mike

At the request of @Yarb here are some details on my pop rivet install of the squeegee rubber on the belt molding. Background: When I was doing my car 14 years ago, replacement squeegee rubber was not available but Black Dragon had complete belt molding assemblies available at a great price. The molding was excellent but it was straight and not curved to fit the pinchweld on the top of the door. After several tries it was obvious the new molding would not easily curve into the required shape and I was not going to risk damage to a fresh paint job. So... I removed the squeegee strip with its thin metal backplate still stapled in place and installed it on my OE molding with 1/8" pop rivets spaced about every 4 1/2" at the staples. The backside of the pop rivets does not interfere with the fit onto the pinchweld.

I'm going to beat you to it today, 'ol Buddy!

Huge fan of Mr @CanTechZ His advice has always been spot on, saving me a lot of time and....MONEY. Thank you Sir! Cliff

CanTechZ thanks for your post and introducing me to your amazing re-restoration posts. I just spent a couple of hours looking through all of them. Great insights and many useful photos. Looks like we had similar experiences with the fuel tank and filler hose connection.

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I'm a little late to the party as you have succeeded in removing the filler neck. For reference here is a post on what I did on my 1970 a few years back, I was lucky that mine was easier than yours. I have found that the "pushing" a hose off a barbed fitting works much better than trying to pull it off, same principal here.

WD 40 will swell the rubber IMHO.

http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/IMG_9042-1024x576.jpg On Saturday, August 30 the Breakfast Club Rally is hosting Tokyo Calling 5, their fifth All-Japanese car rally starting in Sonoma, Ca. To register and see more details, please visit their website HERE http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/295347817_10158887321741524_4308179328201520601_n-1024x768.jpg We have run several rallies with Breakfast Club and it is a total blast, you can see our previous event reports HERE. http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/IMG_8606-e1693164189785-1024x660.jpeg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/IMG_8882-1024x768.jpeg Stay tuned for caravan information from Z Car Garage. Z you there! http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/TC5anim_lg.jpghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/IMG_8713-1024x768.jpeghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/IMG_4871.jpg Enjoy this walk-around and driving video from Tokyo Calling 3: View the full article

@mayolives do yourself a huge favor and research the disc I’m talking about located on the the end of the pushrod inside the booster. There are rebuilders for that booster.

That’s good advice but you didn’t warn him about the disc dropping to the bottom of the booster.

@Mike Can’t you block this somehow?

Thank you Zed Head. I'll give it a shot.

Yes thankyou! I want sute how that was supposed to work also Thank-you for the recommendation for the efi Bible I have read it and looking forward to doing some of the trouble shooting, the throttle position sensor test looked especially useful ! Thanks to everyone and i am sorry if i missed replying to anybody your all a huge help! I will continue to post my progress in so maybe someone else can benefit from all the info!

This is possible. Unbolt the MC from the booster and pull it forward a bit. Fluid will leak out if the rear seal of the MC is leaking. If you do find a leak you might be able to save the booster if you clean out the brake fluid from inside. Not sure what the best way to do that would be. Maybe water, since brake fluid and water are compatible.

I think that will be the name on this datsuns folder it seems to fit .

Be patient. Good advice. Too busy yesterday but got back to it this morning. BTW I did get the pics from Harbor Freight. They worked great. Kept working them gently around where the filler hose meets the gas tank using WD 40 with it's straw for a lubricant. As soon as I let the tank down a bit further and pushed it to the side it popped loose from the filler hose. Now lets see, reassembly is just reversing what you did to take it apart, right? Great video on tank cleaning by the way. Lol. Thanks for all the help and suggestions everyone. I'll probably start a new thread soon on my reassembly efforts with the new gas tank.

3M Makes a really good advesive remover in an aerosal can. Not expensive. Works fast and might help to keep the rubber hose in tact. Also Goo Gone works well. Slow and steady wines the race.

Wow!!! That tranny mount is a rel deal. NOOOOOT!!!!

My brake pedal felt lower and spoongy than normal when driving. Checked master cylinder reservoir and found it to be down in brake fluid about half way. I refilled it and checked all 4 wheel cylinders and brake lines under the car and all were dry. Test drove car again and pedal was still lower and spoongy. Is it possible that master cylinder is leaking back into the vac. booster? Or is my booster going bad? Or could both be happening. Vac. boosters are hard to come by for my 79zx. Any thoughts?

@jfa.series1 I need to be schooled AsWell!!

I have some urgent projects around the house which I hope to be able to finish in the following days, but I hope after that I have loads of time for the Z again. So this will be a very quick update: I got some nice documents from Japan again: The first one is the "Z-2" Service Shuho Book, which is the equivalent of the English bulletins. They have become quite pricey recently, so i stick to focus on the most important ones, but when Z-2 (introduction of the Automatic transmission cars) showed up for a reasonable price, i made sure to get it. Here's my collection so far. There are plenty more, which I hope to add to my collection whenever they pop up for a good price. The second document is the December 1973 Nissan sports option catalogue for the HS30 "240Z". It's probably the most extensive one, which is 12-pages strong. It focuses on the HS30 Fairladies only, which means most of the listed parts also fit my HLS30 car. The other catalogues are either much thinner, or focus on a different car (Z432, for e.g.) or a whole range of Cars (240 / 260 / 280Z). But basically, it was a good price and missing in my collection, so that's why I got it. I hope for more updates, soon, I have some things planned... And I have some very cool things waiting to be picked up by me, or on the way here...