Zed Head

That's 24 degrees of rotation of the transmission, putting the shifter in the driver's lap. Can't remember which way the VG30 engine is rotated. It uses a different transmission. I wonder if it's a better option. Maybe it's been considered. Derek is mentioned in one of the articles. I assume that his engine is not rotated? Seems like poor timing on Nissan's part, waiting so long to introduce their head, when there were already two out there. Besides the fact that block supply is diminishing. Slim market. OS Giken Releases L Series Head - The Gentleman RacerOS Giken was born in the early 1960s; Osamu Okazaki wanted to build a true high-performance Japanese race car to compete against the sports cars from Europe dominating the sport at the time. Like many

I had their greatest hits album when I was a kid. In retro my parents were probably concerned.

If it was mine I'd watch the play at the adjusting nut on the rod. Press the fork against the pressure plate fingers using one hand and run the nut in until you have contact with the fork with the other one. That would be zero play. Then back it off 1.5 turns. Easier to do the adjustment without the spring attached, since you'll be able to feel when you're on the pressure plate fingers. I've never done one but I think I understand what they're trying to accomplish. 2 mm of play between bearing and pressure plate when the slave clyinder is at the start of its stroke. Don't forget to check the pedal adjustment at the MC also. I've adjusted play there in the same way. Just max out the adjustment rod, being careful not to press the piston in to the MC bore, then back it off a bit. Another feel by finger job. And you don't need to remove the clevis you can turn the rod with a pair of pliers or a strong grip while everything is assembled.

Did you follow the instructions? Don't know why they show the measurement since most people will just tighten until play is gone and loosen 1.5 turns. Nobody's going to stick a feeler gauge in that hole. Don't forget to bleed.

$36,000

dzcg might be having seller's regret. 🤢 Everyone knows about ad blockers. They work. Good luck.

@Derek makes something similar. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/119641-twin-cam-head-for-the-l6-from-derek-at-datsunworks/?do=findComment&comment=1249401

This was a clue that it was an electrical problem. If the engine was still spinning because it was in gear then spark will still move the tachometer needle.

Another VRP car. Already sold once for $101,240. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-380/ https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-93/

Should have put it on BaT so we could pick it apart!

It looks bent around the exhaust pipe. Maybe backed the pipe in to something and it caused some damage. Good Not so good, but not terrible. The bumper looks a bit dinged up on the bottom too.

I'd see if you can work out a deal for the proper head if you're looking to be close to a restoration. I don't want to hurt zKars' position but he did say "never been able to sell". Seems like he's been waiting for you... Good luck. I redid the math for what should be the E31 head and got 7.7. Didn't add your millimeter overbore though. Also found that some of the engine calculators out on the internet seem to have the wrong chamber volumes. I used the dimensions and reported CR from the FSM to calculate volume. Just for fun.

Is there a specific reason that you're trying to save the L20?

I got 7.5 for the CR of an L24 head on an L20 block, assuming the L24 head is the dual SU head. Probably want to get with zKars on that L20 head. Realized that I used the E88 L24 head for the calculations. 8.6 CR instead of 9.0. I'll redo them later. Probably still under 8 CR.

Disconnect at the manifold/header exit and run your borescope up that way. That distributor looks like just a magnetic pickup distributor, that uses an external ignition module. But your exhaust blockage sounds reasonable. Good luck. Post pictures.