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Mike W

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Mike W last won the day on March 16

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About Mike W


  • Map Location
    Austin, TX

My Z Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  1. Jai's Status

    I have a front bumper from 75-76 that would match the original one from her car. It is only the bumper bar (not the rubber pieces) and has a few small dings in it but overall it is in good condition. The one I have on my car has already been re-chromed and so I really don't have a need for the spare one that I have. If Jai wants it she can have it for the cost of shipping to her location. Hope that helps. Mike.
  2. Yes I have successfully done this. The bearing is quite easy to find from multiple sources. I purchased mine from VXB bearings for about $20. It's an angular contact bearing with the correct ID and OD but it is 1mm thinner than the original. You can find it here: http://www.vxb.com/2-Angular-Contact-Bearing-7202B-15x35x11-p/kit1086.htm It is not sealed on one side but this replacement seemed to do the job without issue. You will need to source some shims to make up the 1mm difference. I actually used L6 valve spring seats / shims which were the proper OD and hardened and so they did the trick. Hope that helps. Mike.
  3. @Zup is correct. I have done this upgrade using the universal Lokar throttle cable, and yes it goes all the way to the pedal. It is one of the best, if not the best upgrade I have done to my car. I run triple Webers and always had a return to idle problem with the stock linkage. I tried literally for years to get the stock linkage to work properly, including the addition of 2 return springs and was never satisfied. The return springs definitely impacted drivability and still didn't totally resolve the return to idle issue. I finally bit the bullet and went with the Lokar cable and what a difference that made. The throttle response was much smoother and the return to idle problem disappeared. I was even able to remove both of the return springs and now I only use the integrated spring that isa part of the Harada manifold setup. I couldn't be happier. My only regret is that I wish I had done this years ago. Hope that helps. Mike.
  4. 1976 280Z Restoration Project

    Are these the parking brake calipers that you are referring to from Dave?? If so, I have installed a set on my car and can provide some guidance on the install process. Mike.
  5. Homemade Fuel Rail

    I think the upgrade to cable for me was the biggest improvement to the drivability of my car of all of the upgrades I have done. I fought the OEM linkage for years and was never able to obtain an acceptable return to idle without having to kick the gas pedal. On top of that I used a couple of return springs to help with the idle return, but that resulted in erratic pedal acceleration and poor drivability. The cable changed all of that. Smooth acceleration. No linkage binding and a very smooth return to idle. Other than the built in return spring on the Harada manifold I use, there is nothing else on the linkage and my return to idle is perfect. Cleaned up my engine bay with the spring removal and ended up with a big overall improvement to the drivability. I would never go back to the OEM setup. Mike.
  6. My Datsun 280Z "Rustoration"

    I have a big brake kit on my car (the Arizona Z kit) and as a result the standard 14 inch spare tire rim would not fit over them. I carried around a portable inflator for a while but never really liked that solution. I ended up getting a mini spare from a 2010 Nissan Sentra that worked perfectly. It's the right bolt pattern and fits over the big brakes. It's 125-70-16 and fits perfectly in the spare tire hole. Easy to find them on eBay. I think I paid about $50 shipped. Hope that helps. Mike.
  7. 240z Electric Fuel Pump Installation

    They way that @w3wilkes has described the hook up is the exact way my pump is wired. It makes no sense to wire it to accessories as the pump would run when the engine was off and you would not want this situation. In addition you would not want it wired to just the start position as the pump would turn off after the car was started. You need the pump wired to the "on" position on the switch. This way you can go to "on" before starting the car so that the pump will run and prime the carbs (a necessary requirement with triple Webers as the bowls tend to evaporate when the car is not driven frequently). Once the car is started and the key is in the run position, the pump will continue to run while the engine runs. However, you should also install an inertia switch in the circuit as well so that in the event of an accident the inertia switch will trip and shut off power to the pump. You would not want the pump to continue to run after an accident especially if the engine shuts down as a result of the collision. Mike.
  8. Valve cover breather thread

    I used red loctite as well as lock washers so they should be pretty secure in there. Mike.
  9. Valve cover breather thread

    So there is very little room in the back of the valve cover as it relates to the last cam tower. As a result I have to dremel off the part of the bung that was protruding into the cover itself in order to make some additional room. You will see that in one of the pictures below. Also you will see the "bosses" that are cast into the top of tyhe cover and these I drilled and tapped so I could secure the new baffle to the cover. The only thing not shown in the pictures are the small holes that we drilled around the bung opening in the new baffle. Pretty straight forward and seems to work fine. Let me know if you have any other questions about this. Mike.
  10. Valve cover breather thread

    I agree with you on the baffle plate and so we designed something that I believe will be more than sufficient in terms of preventing a significant amount of oil from being slung around and ultimately ending up in the catch can. I removed the old baffle as it was no longer needed. There are 2 bosses cast into the cover at the very end of the cover. I drilled and tapped these so I had something to mount the new baffle to. I fabricated a very simple L bracket out of some 3/32 aluminum stock and this new bracket actually "covers" the hole made by the newly welded in bung. I then drilled about a dozen small holes in the bracket right around the area of the hole so it makes sort of a mesh filter. I mounted the new baffle and secured it in the cover with red loctite. So far so good. No significant flow of oil from the cover into the catch can and everything else seems to be running fine. Mike.
  11. Valve cover breather thread

    I've actually been through this as I wanted to install a catch can directly from the breather port and wanted to also us AN fittings. I can tell you for sure that the original threads are not 1/2 NPT. I purchased a 1/2 NPT right angle AN fitting and it was too big. I ended up purchasing a 1/2 NPT tap and retapped the hole. Was not a super hard effort and made for a nice solution in the end. Since then I have actually had the breather hole welded over and smoothed out to the contours of the valve cover and welded in a 1/2 NPT bung in the very back of the valve cover and have attached my catch can there. Makes for a cleaner and fairly unique installation.
  12. Wax

    So for polishing applications I pretty much use Menzerna products exclusively. I have also used their polymer sealant as well with good results. They tend to be on the expensive side but produce very good results. However, recently a good buddy of mine tried a product he received as a trial. It's called Trinova and for a fraction of the cost of the Menzerna it actually appeared to do a better job. Goes on easily and wipes off easily after the recommended drying time. I used it on my car right before ZCON and so I do not know about the longevity of the product, but the initial results were extremely good. You can pick this up on Amazon for about $14. I had not heard of the brand before but they have a full line of other car care products as well, although the carnuba based wax is the only one I have tried so far. Mike.
  13. The Classic Z Motley Crew

    Zup uses it to soak up all of the gas that leak out of his flat tops. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  14. The Classic Z Motley Crew

    Site- wish you could have been here. You have been missed Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  15. [attachment Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile