motorman7

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motorman7 last won the day on June 19

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About motorman7

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    San Diego CA

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My Z Cars

  • About My Cars
    Bought the 'family' 1970 240Z from my folks. My step-father was the original owner. He kept it in very good condition for 39 years. Will try to restore it and keep it in original condition as best I can. VIN is HLS30-02614 so its an early one.

    Purchased a Modified 71Z with an L26 motor. VIN is HLS30-40147

    Purchased an original '73. VIN 160608
  1. Thanks, fortunately I did. It's one of those things where I found the original a couple days after I gave up looking for it. Lucked out.
  2. It's a moot point since you have the insulator, but yes, the insulator is for heat insulation. Even though the bolts provide direct heat transfer, the transfer Area is reduced by using the insulator. This can be seen in the equation: for heat transfer. A is area, delta T is difference in part temperatures (head versus fuel pump) and Delta X is the length of the bolt through the insulation. k is the thermal coefficient of the bolt. If you use titanium bolts, this number would be very low, copper would be high. Steel is in the middle somewhere. This equation then becomes a battle between how much the air in the engine compartment cools the fuel pump versus how hot the head is. The heat battle is going on through the bolts that connect the two. The reduced transfer area helps the pump stay a bit cooler due to the reduced area as the equation shows. I am sure @Zedyone_kenobi would concur and he is a rocket scientist. Just my two cents. Best regards, Rich PS: I only weighed in on this because i was trying to find the pump insulator myself a week ago. They are becoming quite rare it seems.
  3. I really have no idea. I am guessing the paint on the original Z's would be a Japanese supplier just for logistics. PPG seems to be one of the better quality paint suppliers and is recommended by most of the guys on the site here.
  4. Updates from the paint shop. Slow going, but glad everything is being addressed. A couple small holes in the floor have been welded up. Plugs welded in where the AC hoses used to be. The orange paint is in, PPG brand, 918 orange. That is a good sign.
  5. I just used the Rust-Oleum gloss black for the housing. I wire wheeled the entire housing down to the bare metal and wiped with lacquer thinner to make sure it was clean. It sticks pretty well that way. I used Matte Clear for the aluminum. I used to use gloss clear to protect the metal parts, but it does not look as good. Matte produces a finish that is a bit closer to the bare metal appearance.
  6. Cleaned up the differential this weekend. I took a little bit of 'artistic license' and put clear coat on the aluminum parts. Who looks under the car anyway? I could paint the aluminum black but it looks nice like this, the cast aluminum is beautiful. Before and after pics below.
  7. $15K wouldn't even cover the bodywork and welding needed. A serious restoration on this car with correct parts will be in the $40-$50K range easy
  8. Latest photos from the paint shop.
  9. Just a quick pic of three Z’s at the 2017 San Marino motor classic (formerly the LA concours). Mine is in the middle. This really is a great venue with a lot of very high end cars. Lots of space to walk around, trees for shade and the best goody bag of any car show that I have ever been to. Last year I even saw Jay Leno here, so it is definitely a very nice event. Unfortunately, the Z’s drew blanks and did not place at all in the Japanese Classics category. Yes, even Jay’s Gold Medallion Z did not place which seldom occurs. However, as has been mentioned before, it all depends on what the judges are looking for. Sometimes they are looking for workmanship, sometime its authenticity, or un-restored, or a ‘great story’ car. You just never know, and it is different for each show. In talking to the judges afterward, the judges gave high marks for ‘how rare’ (translated expensive) the cars were. Yes, even though the craftsmanship on some of the Z’s was exceptional, when it comes to rarity a $600K Toyota GT, complete with oil leaks, detached and dilapidated weather stripping, deep scratches and non-stock radiator (among other issues) trumps the Z’s hands down. The 2000GT, with car cover on in the pic, took second. The Mazda Cosmo, another six figure (nearly $200K?) took third. First place was a 1961 Mazda R360 coupe, which also took first last year at this show. The conversation I found most interesting was with Mike Malamut . Mike owns the R360 that took first and also has his own museum of cars with over 150 cars including a 2000GT. He also just purchased that blue 1970 240Z on BAT and Mike Sage’s Beautiful silver HLS30-00222. Seems he is adding to his vintage 240Z collection. The comment he made is that some of the nicer VIN’s below S/N 500 are selling for over $100K to private sellers. That is pretty fascinating. Putting 2 and 2 together, make me wonder what he paid for #222. Anyway, just thought this was all pretty interesting
  10. Yes, I guess I would have figured this out when I went to put on the hoses. It's funny, I originally had it on correctly, but the pump would not rotate freely through the length of the slot in the support arm. The lower housing starts to contact the support bracket as you rotate it towards the engine, with about 2 inches of slot left. The interference gets worse the closer you move it toward the engine. In the upside down configuration it rotates freely over the length of the slot without interference. Thus, not looking at pics, I thought this would be the right install. Will have to fix this.
  11. Sounds great! That has got to be very exciting having that baby up and running. It's a work of art.
  12. A little more progress tonight. Got the smog pump cleaned up and painted. Lubed the bearings while I had the back section off. Used clear satin over the aluminum housing and inlet and outlet pipes. Also got the air breather attached. Loosely installed the pump onto the motor.
  13. I have been prepping my orange Z for the upcoming San Marino Motor Classic so have not spent much time on the resto here. Just did a couple small items. Not sure why, but the smog pump was painted blue. I used lacquer thinner to strip the paint which worked real well. The aluminum looks nice underneath. Still need to remove the back part of the pump and paint that nicely, then this will be ready to install. Assembled one of the smog system parts here (Throttle opener control valve?). That came out nice. Cleaned and painted a couple brackets. Not much to update with the paint shop. Miguel took a little time to work on another vehicle but will get back to this one this week.
  14. So this has all worked out very well so far. Drove to the sellers home with my wife in the roadster. It was a beautiful cool sunny morning and the drive through Rancho Santa Fe and Fairbanks Ranch was absolutely perfect. We spoke with the seller and his wife for about 30 minutes and I left a $1000 deposit for the car. I told him that I would pick the car up in a month or two as I currently have no time or space and he said that was fine. I did check on the front windshield glass and it is the original Nissan stamped windshield in excellent condition. So, very happy with all of the original parts and especially the interior. The original motor is even sporting some of the original braided hoses. Any, will post pics later.
  15. It looks like you ground off the protective zinc plating on the steel, which will lead to the clip rusting rather quickly. Might me easiest to spray some clear coat over the assembly to help protect it. Otherwise, looks very nice under there.