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motorman7 last won the day on August 4

motorman7 had the most liked content!

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About motorman7

  • Rank
    ZCSD Webmaster


  • Map Location
    San Diego CA


  • Gender
  • Occupation
    Design Engineer

My Z Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    Former Owner
    Z fanatic but no car right now
  • About My Cars
    Bought the 'family' 1970 240Z from my folks. My step-father was the original owner. He kept it in very good condition for 39 years. Will try to restore it and keep it in original condition as best I can. VIN is HLS30-02614 so its an early one.<br /><br /><br />
    <br /><br /><br />
    Purchased a Modified 71Z with an L26 motor. VIN is HLS30-40147<br /><br /><br />
    <br /><br /><br />
    Purchased an original '73. VIN 160608
  1. Deja Vu: 1971 Restoration

    I did not take out the plastic for the door hardware. The only concern there would be the part that goes through the center of the plastic. It seemed to plate well enough. The acids won't effect the plastic or rubber. It will just not plate where the rubber is in direct contact with the metal
  2. Deja Vu: 1971 Restoration

    Yes, that is the primer that is under the paint. I will touch that up with orange paint before I put the fenders on.
  3. Best way to rebuild

    Door jams, hatch area, and engine bay first. Best when car is mostly disassembled. This is what my paint shop did. Pics on this link near bottom of page 7
  4. Deja Vu: 1971 Restoration

    Hi Charles, Here are the pics of the right and left cowl drains.
  5. Deja Vu: 1971 Restoration

    You piqued my curiosity, so I had to dig up the reference.....here it is on the link below. This is the statement from page 9 of the NASA study. (In spite of this, I still prefer to use them) "The lockwasher serves as a spring while the bolt is being tightened. However, the washer is normally flat by the time the bolt is fully torqued. At this time it is equivalent to a solid flat washer, and its locking ability is nonexistent. In summary, a Iockwasher of this type is useless for locking." https://ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/19900009424.pdf
  6. Deja Vu: 1971 Restoration

    Aaahhh, now I know what you are referring to (I think...the grayish stuff on the black panel). No, that is closed cell foam. This provides the seal between the 'vertical' panel and the fender and goes down the length of the panel. I also use it on the two mounting platforms that are on the top section (Where the air duct is) that provide fender support.
  7. Clean convertible 240Z

    I pulled up next to this 1972 240Z last Saturday. This is probably one of the best looking convertible Z's I have seen. Most look pretty bad. This one at least is reasonable. Anyway, just had to take a pic before the light changed. I would like to see what the undercarriage support looks like.
  8. Deja Vu: 1971 Restoration

    I will take a picture of that tonight and post it here. I think the area has turned out very nice and is well protected, better than stock. The POR-15 is pretty solid when it comes to metal protection. Not sure what dum dum is. Is that spell check? Yes, the cross-member bolts that hold the steering mechanism has lock nuts. I guess it would be redundant to have a lock washer with a lock nut. A regular washer could go in that location. Personally, I think any nut or bolt that need to be tightened/torqued, should have a washer under it. For the bolts with nuts, I will hold the bolt still with an end wrench and torque the nut which has the washer under it. The washer provides a nice bearing surface and also prevent the hex shape from digging into the metal, creating a round circle under the nut. The split washers do dig into the surface but that area is under the washer so it is somewhat protected. Ideally, the optimal set-up would be a flat washer with a lock nut. On a side note, I seem to remember reading some NASA report that determined that split lock washers are ineffective in keeping nuts from un-screwing. In spite of the fact that they may not be effective, I still like using them. Probably more out of habit than anything else. Again, I think the bearing surface the washer provides is the more important item.
  9. Deja Vu: 1971 Restoration

    I cleaned up the front wheel wells and installed some of the suspension items this weekend. First I scrubbed the front wheel wells with soap and water and then I cleaned them off with paint thinner. After that, I taped up the holes and painted the entire area with POR-15 to seal everything. After that dried, I installed the front cross-member, the left and right front suspension arms along with the anti-sway bar and T/C rods. Everything went in with the new Energy suspension parts which fit nicely. Pics below
  10. Very Nice 1973 here on Craigslist in San Diego. Still has the original flat tops and seat vinyl amidst other parts. Pricey, but impressive. Put some original steel rims on that with hubcaps and it's a pretty sweet ride. https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/cto/d/1973-datsun-240zoriginal/6269971669.html
  11. Deja Vu: 1971 Restoration

    I cleaned up the area where the front suspension support attaches to. After that, I hit it with the touch-up paint. I got the front suspension support and the other front suspension components back from the powdercoater. The parts look great. Can't wait to install these components along with the new Energy suspension rubber. pics below
  12. i can see again!!!

    That is a beautiful area you are in. I have been through Roseburg a number of times on my trips north up the 5 and I love it. I also notice that a number or my 2 X 4's from Home Depot are from Roseburg. Again, great area!
  13. Deja Vu: 1971 Restoration

    Thanks again for the compliments. Fortunately, I really love working on the Z's. It is pretty much my hobby and passion. Also, no need for more smog stuff, I have all I need. I mentioned that I look for smog components on a Z only because if it is on the car, most likely the owner(s) have not modified the car too much. If some one removes the smog equipment, most likely they have done a number of other mods as well. I use it mostly as an indicator, not that I am a big smog equipment fan. I like it on my original Z's because it was the standard equipment, but not on my modified.
  14. Deja Vu: 1971 Restoration

    It's only because I'm an engineer and very anal retentive, it's a curse. And, frame rails are pretty much the first thing I look at when checking out a Z. Smog equipment would be the second item. Usually if I see both of those in good shape, then I am interested. That being said: I was checking over the new chromed bumpers and noticed a very light surface rust on the inside (which of course really bugged me!) So I passivated the rust using phosphoric acid (rust turns dark when rinsed with phosphoric acid: converts iron oxide,rust, to ferric phosphate, second pic) , wiped clean and then painted with Silver POR-20. That should remedy the rust. It is pretty much a non-visible area so I just applied the paint to prevent the rust. I am told that most chrome shops recommend that the inside of the bumpers be painted so this should work well.
  15. Deja Vu: 1971 Restoration

    Thanks.....Also, thanks for the source here. I just ordered some for the rails. I looked for spray gun attachments but the tips all seemed to be 1/2" diameter or more. This has a nice small tube for internal access.