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  2. Too late now, but forgot to mention it before... I was in HD and Lowes this past weekend and both of them have plenty of muriatic acid on the shelves. I thought of you when I saw it. NJ may not have it, but you can still come across the bridge to get it.
  3. Thanks Chas, ideas, who knows where they come from, some are mine some are stolen. Yes can't put a brace over the engine so I thought I would try to stabilize things a different way. But I have just found out a few days ago that I don't have to have the stock air box now that I'm using a stand alone FI management system, the air box was the reason I couldn't have the brace bar in the first place, oh man.So much for my ideas. I may end up with something like this, in which case I would have plenty of room for a cross brace. The car is a joy to work on now, I'm dipping every project from now on.
  4. Hi all. Thanks for your suggestions. Just got home from work. I pulled the plugs and cranked the starter - sure enough, there is a whole lot of water in cylinder 6. So I guess it's the head gasket? If so, good news I suppose. Could be a lot worse! I've always used quality coolant, but I've only had her for 5 out of her 35 years. The radiator was certainly full of plain old water when I took ownership. That said, the radiator was in fairly good condition and didn't run brown when I first drained it. 1982 280zx 2+2 non-turbo, auto in Melbourne, Australia
  5. $3,500.00 (0 Bids) End Date: Monday Feb-27-2017 18:50:16 PST Buy It Now for only: $7,200.00 Buy It Now | Bid now | Add to watch list Check out this Zcar on eBay here
  6. I poured a gallon of acid in, sloshed for about five minutes. Dumped that in an empty 5 gal. bucket then dumped 2 gallons of water mixed with soda in. Sloshed another 5 mins. Then dumped that into the dirty acid bucket. Looked like the science fair volcanoes spewing foam everywhere. Then a quart of acetone, dumped that. Put the hose of my backpack blower in the filler hole on the tank with all the vents opened back up. Ran for 10 minutes full blast. Then one qt. of red kote. Drained the excess and let it bake in the sun for a week. Next weekend replaced all the vent hoses and put it all back in. No problems so far, 6 years on the 280 tank, 2 on the 240 tank. Best thing I learned between the two tanks was write down the steps and follow them quickly.
  7. Today
  8. So curious you washed the tank and got all the big chunks of rust out and then used a only a pint of pure muratic acid for 3 mins? We're you also constantly turning the tank? If I recall when I did mine I cleaned best I could filled half with water and added a hole gallon of muratic acid then filled the rest with water. I let mine sit for about an hour, dumped the nasty mess and let a hose with clean water run for about 15 min.
  9. Looking good Chris. The bracing looks very neat and tidy. Did you get that idea from someone or your own inventiveness? Are you doing this because you can't use the tower brace over the bmw engine? Must be a pleasure to work on now all the metal is so clean.
  10. I see now your wheels aren't coated after a zoom in and they look great! A 70's 280 parked by a charging station is so funny to me. Great sense of humor and beautiful car. Keep on Z'ing.
  11. I see something to read up on. You're head bolt holes are threaded, mine aren't on that E31. Is that something you did or do all P79s have that? Thanks!
  12. $35,000.00 End Date: Monday Feb-27-2017 17:44:03 PST Buy It Now for only: $35,000.00 Buy It Now | Add to watch list Check out this Zcar on eBay here
  13. Why do you want the change clocks. If you are doing it because you happen to have a ZX clock handy, it might be easier to try and repair the original. Do you still have the original? Here is a write-up by @monkeyman in australia. It seems an easy procedure to follow and would probably be a lot easier than converting a ZX. I think zclocks does an exchange service. How to fix your 260Z or 280Z clock - rev 1.pdf
  14. I agree Zed. First identify the problem, then fix it. It could be a number of things causing his problem and changing stuuf will eventually solve it, but that can cost $$$$. It could be as simple as a loose pick-up coil and the gap is now too wide. Just saying.... The tests I listed in section 9 of the instruction are out of self evaluation and from the manual. It should be enough to identify where the problem is or eliminate sections until one item is left. Testing the TIU is very difficult for the home hobbyist, but using the process of elimination you can identify it ss the cause. A quick test would be: Disconnect the TIU plug and use a wire with spade terminal to make a connection to ground. Turn ignition on and tap the wire rappidly to ground while someone checks for spark using the timing light on the HT wire going from coil to the distributor cap. That would eliminate everything on the coil side of the system. Then it's down to testing the reluctor, reluctor wiring, TIU and power/ground to the TIU.
  15. Didn't see that in any of the threads I read, but makes 100% sense. CHEMISTRY! Im confident the acetone got it all, though. It came out clear the second time and I gave it another one to be sure.
  16. Good info. Thanks. I did my 78 with muratic acid and clean water. I didn't have the flash problem but on the 75 tank I need to do I will remember this.
  17. Here is a photo of the kit I had from Datsun Comp Department. The perch's were welded on higher up. I did measure but can no longer recall the amount. I did talk to d*** Roberts and he said the perch was made higher for race tire clearance as I recall.
  18. Nice detective work. I've heard of the pickup coils dying and actually have a bad one in the garage. That's a simple meter test. He could also trigger a spark through the coil discharge wire, and watch it with his timing light, by grounding the negative post quickly (tapping to ground with a lead wire) with the key on. Make and break. At least he'd know that the coil can produce a spark and the path to the discharge wire is intact. Just need to get through the basics before suggesting a ZX distributor or HEI module.
  19. Judging by the photo in post#3 it's a E12-27 out of a 78 280Z or a ZX. Basically any manual from the 78 onwards should get you through it. The manual quickly moves over to specialized test equipment though. 1978_280Z_TIU.pdf 280Z_1978_GM_HEI_Mod_Rev2.pdf
  20. Cliff.....The large water jacket is a common problem area, but any of the smaller jackets can cause problems too
  21. This is what you're speaking of?
  22. $2,250.00 (0 Bids) End Date: Monday Feb-27-2017 16:34:15 PST Bid now | Add to watch list Check out this Zcar on eBay here
  23. There are several tests you can run described in the FSM. Not sure what "book" you're referring to, but it seems like the wrong one, considering the next-to-the-battery module location. You didn't say what year 280Z either. Use the Factory book from the Downloads area. You have power to the coil. It's not likely a loose wire on the input side. It's probably the module itself or the pickup coil in the distributor. Do the simple meter tests shown in the Engine Electrical chapter.
  24. Oh! I understand, thank you sir. I used to use water from my dehumidifier for the radiator but then I found gallons for a dollar at the dollar store.
  25. No Cliff, not that.......If you pull the head and look right behind number 6 cylinder you see the big water jacket (1 1/2 inches or so square)........sometimes I've seen a tiny trench eaten by electrolysis that seeps into number 6. That's why you want to use distilled water and anti freeze to prevent iron, lime and calcium from creating electrolysis, and eating up your aluminum heads.
  26. I had one of these which I wore the cover off of back in the 70's. A couple of years ago a young lady (Sarah Bee) who lives out west, owns an early Z, autocrosses it, and had been following my Oddessey post on this site was in the area and stopped by. I gave her my How to Modify Datsun book to help her with tuning her autocross car. I know she has put it to good use.
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