Everything posted by halz
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Name this car...
Interesting... it says csp311 at the top of the plate and I'm sure it only says sp311 on the bottom right...maybe that's just the chassis type..? Anyhoo... here's a picture:
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Name this car...
sp311 on botom right (I can't read Japanese!)
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Name this car...
i'd say its a roadster too. The "sp311" on bottom left of the plate is a dead giveaway. That makes it a late '65-early'67 with the 1595cc engine.
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Hands up who's in Perth (or Australia...)
Seen it. Its an early model and I think they had closer ratios than later models. Also, that car was sold to the present owner early in 2001 for under $5k (I'm guessing... it was advertised for $5K in March '01). The present seller gets cagey when questioned on how long he's had the car, who he bought it from etc..!
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Hands up who's in Perth (or Australia...)
AH-HA! so that's why there are no 240zs available in Perth: you've got them all! Did you look at that orange one in Dianella a few weeks back? The guy wanted $12.5k and claimed it was immaculate. It was a genuine 1-owner car but needed some work...
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Triple carb install = won't start!!??
EricB - did you get your webers sorted out by a pro? How's the Z running now? I'm sure we's all like to know...
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idle flucation
hmmm, my memory of SUs maybe a little off here... but don't SUs have a butterfly valve as well as the 'piston' which is vacuum operated ? If that is the case then putting stronger springs in the pistons would be a no-no as the vacuum generated under accleration would not lift the pistons as high as required. The throttle controls only the butterfly (correct me if I'm wrong... Alan?) and its that mechanism you should be checking. In a 'slide' carburettor, where the throttle action actually lifts the slides (there is no butterfly), stronger springs would be warranted. I had this very problem on my bike which had 40mm DelOrto carbs and had the alarming habit of maintaining high revs when you were hoping to back off for a corner:surprised (although this did improve my corneringLOL ).
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aircraft strippers
I once owned '69 Monaro GTS which I had repainted in the original colour. This was good move no.1 because the time and effort involved in emptying the engine bay and cabin trim to properly change the colour was going to be OTT. After sanding and preparation, the 1st coat was applied (Sebring Orange FYI) and it looked great... from a distance. At about 6" away you could see the dimpled orange-peel effect (appropriate given the colourLOL ) which often results from silica or grease on the painted surface repelling the wet coat as it is applied. I was mildly horified but my panel man said that this was not unexpected and to regard the 1st coat as a good quality undercoat. It was rubbed back (lightly), cleaned and repainted. Well, the result was FANTASTIC. In fact it was too good! The car looked like an emergency beacon! Fortunately, the original spec called for dual black bonnet and side striping and once that was done and the badgework replaced the car was a gem. So... point of the story is (as Escanlon and other have said) for a A1 job a 'bare metal' strip is just not necessary.
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G-nose
Hear hear Alan. Don't ever shut up and don't ever lose your soapbox! I'm sure our internet club hushes respectfully when ever we see one of your replies... keep it up!
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New Logo Needed
For goodness sake do NOT modify your car! Please! It looks great just as it is. As you know most of the ones for sale out there have been irreversibly modified (L28, sunroof, Mags, custom paint, etc, etc.) Yours (apart from the wheels and speaker boxes inside) looks like its been taken from a time capsule. The horrible mods you just mentioned wil only devalue the car. (Buy a 1600 for that!)
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New Logo Needed
oops, just found them - nice!
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New Logo Needed
Actually I'm not that big a fan of the G nose... from some angles it can make a car look sort of droopy! Any pics of your car on the site?
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New Logo Needed
Alfadog, is that your car under your name (the avatar)? I just ask because you don't see many G-nose cars around...
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starting an engine that has sat 4 years...
Sounds like you've done most things I would do. I suggest turning it over by hand to mke sure nothing is sticking. Next disconnect the main distributor lead and crank the engine on the starter. This will allow oil to be pumped through the galleries without the engine bursting into life. When satisfied that the oils-a-movin, reconnect the distributor, set the choke and give it a whirl!
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Hands up who's in Perth (or Australia...)
I'm a Melbourne-boy thru and thru but work brought me to Perth years ago. I'm now in the mode of 'miss Melb when in Perth', miss Perth when in Melb'... some people are never satisfied :classic:
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Hands up who's in Perth (or Australia...)
OK, the more time I spend looking at this great website, posting gooffy questions and replies etc, the more Aussie members seem bob up. So far I think there are 4 of us in Perth (26ounce, Mr.Camoflage, Lee240zPerth and myself). Anyone else? If we know who we are we can all be collectively miserble about: a) the lack of decent Zs for sale withing a 2000km radius of Perth the lack of a spares/workshop for zs c)the fact that our U.S. cousins can pick and choose from the 60,000+ 240s that were imported to their land compared to the 2-3000 that came to Australia. But more to the point, we can share our hard won knowledge on z-survival downunder. If you're an Aussie, stand up and be counted!
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Horsepower vs. Torque?
Hey alfadog have you driven a S2000? I have and I'm buggered if I could get the rear wheels to spin. I tried the old 1st gear, 6000rpm and slide the foot sideways off the clutch trick... but it just launched (and I mean REALLY launched!!) but no chirp of the tyres, no smoke, nothing. Technology has robbed us.:disappoin
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Horsepower vs. Torque?
Ivan's got it right. The more revs you can extract from your engine, the more power it should produce... in theory. Unfortunately, the engine will need to have sound underlying torque characteristics to produce the expected power. So... when you're planning you engine mods, think torque not power. After all, its the torque that you really feel when driving.
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'73 bonnet/hood
I have seen a pic of a '73 240z with a fluted bonnet/hood. I thought that the hoods with such slots were from later model cars (260/280) but the owner says that this is a 'rare factory fluted bonnet'... Is he right? Or has a previous owner dinged the bonnet and replaced it from a later model?
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Triple SU's
Good point. I know that e-type Jags have a triple SU setup...
- 2+2 vs 2 Seaters
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this may help if ur interisted
When I 1st started riding a bike, my friends and familly started noticing "all of the bikes on the road". Truth is the bikes had always been there, but now that they had a close contact (me:classic: ) riding, they became aware of just how many bikes were out there. Just think of all of the people who would see bikers if they really LOOKED! (and the accidents that would be avoided). Anyway that was my little rant for the day... Another thing riding makes you very aware of is the road surface. Coming into a corner you sweep you eyes along the blacktop (checking for water, oil, gravel, dead animals, <insert your favourite road detritus here>) and then commit yourself. When braking you think: what is the limit of adhesion on this surface? Even to the extent that you know how your bike will respond to different types of tarmac: the ultra smooth black stuff, great on a warm day but deadly in the wet; the coarse grey stuff, less grip in the dry but more forgiving in damp conditions etc etc. And after years of riding, passengers in my car will ask why I execute small swerves occaisionally for no apparent reason - its because I'd rather not drive over that steel manhole cover, bulbous bitumen repair, pothole or slippery white line. I noticed, they didn't. All this sounds obssessive when written but after years of riding its just second nature and I think my car thanks me for it!!
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240Z in movies
Thought I saw one in a crash scene in "All saints" (Australian soapie) last night... Turned out to be just a 240K :sick: thank goodness!
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vibration at speed
Has the car ever been in a prang? (before you owned it?). The fact that a reputable suspension shop found nothing and that you've tried different sets of rims and tyres suggests maybe the problem is deeper than suspension/wheels. Not sure of the right place to go...perhaps a panel shop which has a chassis jig. They should be able to check that the chassis is true and square. I guess what I'm saying is that having new or reconditioned suspension components is no good if they are attached to a bent chassis. Just a thought... (and I hope its nothing that serious:disappoin )
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Fresh Paint - My 76 280
Nice, I love silver cars. What is with that rear bumper.. its soooo wiiide. Is that a result of some '70s US government regulation? I'd ditch it for one off an earlier model. Apart form that, nice car!