Phacade

Hope this helps: Back when I put the 5-speed in my 240Z, I used a '78 shifter handle from a '78 5-speed. It is more bent than the original and clear the tunnel without any cutting. Then I replaced the leather shift boot.

Good point about it being your Z and therefore being done your way. Everyone has theier own version of what they want thier Z to be. I had two but was forced to sell one of my Z's. My remaining Z is a '75 280Z, although with the body and bumper mods it looks more like a 240Z. The '83 turbo scoop on the hood really sets it apart from the rest. Future plans include a fresh L28 rebuild, a different 5-speed, etc. Etc. Don't let anyone tell you what your doing is wrong because there is no such thing. Unless you make it look like a Honda Civic; in which case we would have to tar and feather you.

You know Miami is not that far from Tulsa. One of these weekends maybe we can bump heads and try to figure those carbs out. More than likely, however, it simply sat for awhile. Carbs can be tricky and despite being SU's, if they sat for 5 years they may need a good rebuilding. Thrashers carb shop here in Tulsa does a decent job, or you may consider going for the already rebuilt SU carbs from Z therapy ( www.ztherapy.com ). Like I said I had a pair and they were great. Scott at Ztherapy talked with me on the phone for a long time before and explained how he rebuilds them using 'gross jets'. Good stuff. I was fortunate enough to get '70 model SU carbs for my '73 240Z. Of course I had to sell it. Bummer too because I loved that car. If you do get a good running '83, check the block and head casting number. Block is located on passenger side, below cylinder #5. Head is on head (duh) between cylinders 1 and 2. I would strongly consider rebuilding this engine and dropping it in your Z. You might also want to grab the ZX 5-speed and R200 rear end, they drop in your 240Z as well. If you do choose to go with the ZX 5-speed, get a '78 280Z shifter handle. It mounts on your transmission and will clear the tunnel fine. No cutting, looks factory. No much else is useful from the 280ZX unless you want to do a rear disc brake conversion. There are a couple schools of thought on this, some use the rear ZX disc brakes and fab the mount. I have heard of using the fron t brakes and flipping them backwards. Downside to this is there is no way to utilize the emergency brake. Lemme know how it goes. Oh there is the most important matter for your new Z; Have you named it yet?

Na, too early to time anyone, I have to get to work around 4:30am.

If you are swapping the enire block and head into your 240Z, then all will bolt up fine. If you leave your block and swap over the head from the '83 280ZX then it will still bolt up fine but your headers probably won't. You said it is a non-turbo Z? Most likely you have a P79 head. Check the head casting to be certain. On the off chance you have a P90 or P90a head (turbo head) then you will be able to use your headers. Your '73 head had square exhaust ports while most of the later heads had round ports. I say later in reference to 280ZX heads. A few 280ZX's had the N47 head and therefore had square ports. Bottom line, square exhaust ports will enable you to use your existing headers. You could also just swap the intak manifold and EFI over to your '73 head and block and leave your headers where they are. You might be able to leave the calibration where it is although from seeing and talking to several Z nuts, swapping EFI from a 280ZX over to a more or less stock L24 requires calibration of the ECU and possibly the injectors. Of course wiring needs to be modded either way, new fuel lines run, new fuel pump added, etc, etc. So whats the problem with your SU's anyway? Ever consider a carb rebuild? When I still had my 240Z, I went with Z therapy SU carbs and they were wonderful. Consider and plan carefully before jupming into a big project. :classic:

I thought it was if in doubt; JB Weld. I swear when I was a kid my Dad held the entire car together with JB Weld and duct tape. Oh and coat hangers. Lots of coat hangers.

Well yes, you will need to rewire almost everything. The tranny you have must go and use a 300ZX tranny (although I have heard people have found ways to use existing transmissions). From what I have heard, there will be a slight performance increase but only slight. Obviously more if you go turbo. You also need to rework your exhaust. Is this going into a 240Z? You need to find where to mount all that extra wiring and the ECU. When done properly it does look very nice, but from what I have heard and talking to folks who ave done it; They say its actually easier to slap a V8 in your Z. Opinion granted since I have done neither and probably will not. I like the simplicity of my L6.

I saw this and was like oh my God! Then I looked me up. Yep, I was there. That picture must have been when I still had my goatee. Gee I'm a handsome guy!:classic:

You might also consider using a shifter handle from a '78 280Z. It is bent more than yours is now and will better clear the tunnel without bumping anything. You can also use this shift handle with a 5-speed and still not worry about having to cut anywhere.

I was watching that old Dudley Moore movie 'Crazy People' the other day and it gave me a few slogan ideas: "The Z, if you don't drive one; you should be locked up in institution. Period." "The Z; it's a little too small to get [naughty] in but you get [naughty] the minute you get out." "The Z; because Caucasians are just too damn tall." I really should have gotten some sleep last night....

Its never a bad idea to go with a new battery and regulator when springing for a alternator. I would exchange them at the same time and then watch the needle close.

A good rule of thumb here is to relace the rear diff mount, the strap over the top, the bushings, the moustache bar bushings, u-joints. Usually this will fix it. Sometimes the gears inside have worn or settled in your diff, open the rear inspection plate an examine. Smell it. I know its weird but sometimes a fould odor can evident a problem.

Yes but when I read that last post and then look around the office I get a cold shiver.

Good question really. I imagine the answer would either open the door for all lifes questions to be answered or drive you hopelessly insane. Definatly one or the other.

After 2MANYZ's description I have been wondering if he works with me...

The sad thing is, here in Oklahoma; thats not too far from the truth.

Congrats and drive carefully! A friend on mine totally smashed a '71 240z on his graduation. The lesson: Vodka and Z's do not mix.

If all else fails; have you considered armed robbery? The statute of limitations is only 7 years and you will have a very nice Z to show for it. Okay I am just kidding. I like the sad pupy dog idea. Another option would be to attempt to get a 'personal loan' from the bank, it saves on the insurance and is easy to pay off.

You mentioned transplanting parts but didn't say which parts. Most of your interior parts should go over fine, obviously the back seat will not. Motor and transmission will go over fine as long as you do them together, the flywheel on a 2+2 is a bit more heavy duty (although this is a common 'upgrade', I even have a 2+2 flywheel on my 208Z), the flywheel must have all the other clutch equipment, pressureplate, etc that went with the 2+2. Wheels, brakes, taillights all go over fine. The doors might not fit, I have heard conflicting information on this and quite frankly have not cared enough to test it out for myself. The coupe will drive a little, stress little, different than the 2+2 did, but you'll like it. If you can keep the shell of tyhe 2+2 for parts, I would recommend it.

I have heard of a V10 in a Z before, such as a Dodge Viper engine, etc. My question is why would you want this? Sure it would be a great bragging point, no doubt. But I seriously doubt the performance would be any better (probably worse) than a properly setup V8 Z. A V10 is a heavy beast and it would seriously through off the balance in your car. I heard that serious frame modification is necessary. Then there is the fact the with the front end weighted down (and it will be), your rear will be light. Ever see a El Camino with a 454 in it try to launch? Unfortunatly I have. The rear tires will spin and spin until you let off the hammer or it finally grabs. Cornering will stink now too. You know that nice feeling your Z has going through a hard curve, where it lays down and corners like it is on rails? Forget it. It now corners like a '78 Ford LTD. (Yeah I had one of those too and it stunk). Before any project, don't look at what any other gearhead, ricer, dweebie, or otherwise has done to their car. Its your Z. Not mine, not anyone else's. Therefore you have to decide what -you- want to do with your car. Don't rush it, plan it out. Do a little research. You will be glad you did.

Typically the 15/30 is the property/medical payout on insurance. Of course NEVER assume that just because your insurace agent throws out numbers like this that this is the standard. Read your policy, ask the tough questions. Use scenarios. "If I hit someone, what will be covered?" "If someone hits me, what will be covered?" Keep in mind that even if they give you a quote, it may be well above the minimum state requirement. Oklahoma, for example, has a minimum requirement of 10/20 coverage but my agent gave me a 20/50 quote. I took it and even went for the optional comp/collision because I love my car. Some agents, not all, will even classify your car as a classic and give it a special rate, but I doubt they would if your 16. I have my other car, my house and a few other things all with my agent so she classified my car as a classic, with full coverage based on a stated appraised value, and I pay $6 bucks a month for it. If anything happens to it; I get $10K. But I am certain my rates go up then too. As far as insurance goes, ask the tough questions up front. My dad always said: "A uncomfortable understanding up front is better than a REALLY uncomfortable revelation later."

WTF? That looks kinda strange. Again, I guess (???) it would work.

I usually refer to things such as this as the 'Jesus ____'. Let me explain. One of my first Z's was a '80 280ZX. Off the battery was th usual positive/negative wires. Coming out of the firewall was a small speaker wire connecting to the positive lead. I never identified it, but if unplugged; the car would not run. After sever hours with an electrician friend of mine, he sat up. Smiled, and proudly proclaimed it was a 'Jesus wire'. He explained it was a 'Jesus wire' because Jesus is the only one who knows why its there. His advice: if the car functions normally then leave it. So my advice: if the car functions normally, leave the box.

I was on HybridZ earlier and ran across this idea, thanks 240Turbo! </font> <hr size="1" style="color:#dedfdf" /> <font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial"> I pretty much solved it!<br /> <img src="http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard/3liter/pics/exhaust/exhaustside2.jpg" alt="" /> <br /> <img src="http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard/3liter/pics/exhaust/exhaustunderside1.jpg" alt="" /> <br /> <img src="http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard/3liter/pics/exhaust/exhaust.jpg" alt="" /> </font>

In addition to all this, I read an article on Zhome and on Zcar about extending the tailpipe out to the edge of the bumper, this is suppose to help keep it from coming back in.