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Thanks Grantman- man oh man. DUHHH! Sometimes ignorance is bliss, other times it's just plain embarassing! I've been doing a little research and I'm getting the sense that this is not a cheap conversion. Although, I read a piece on how it was cheaper to put in a turbo engine rather than build out an L28 with carbs and get more HP. Anyone?

I don't know about australia but this is the same poster available through motorsports that I had seen (earlier post). You can order their catalog from www.zcarparts.com. The website by Ozlime is the same poster and artist.

Is this a picture you would see in a manual where you can see thru the body into all the guts of the car? If so there are 3 posters of 240Z's like this in motorsports new catalog on page 32 in black and white. Not sure if this is what you are looking for but....?

I have a early 260Z with the L26. I'm pretty sure I'm not EFI (I'm assuming that's along the lines of 'equipted with fuel injection?). Beg my pardon for the ignorance here. Is there a source for this type of conversion? My engine in moderately modified with early SU's, no smog crap, headers and a mild performance cam. The drive train is stock, 4 speed manual. If you need more info just say the word. Also, hopefully you can tell me what kind of cash layout I might need to make this conversion.

Okay, this may be a dumb question but I'm wondering if the L-series engine can be turbo'd or supercharged? I'm curious as my car has started to emit a lot more visible exhaust than I can recently remember. I'm wondering if I have blown a piston ring or something because I distinctly remember it running pretty clean not to long ago (like last week). I got on it pretty good the other day playing with a rice burner out of a turn lane and since then I've been noticably smoking. There's no new noises coming from the engine compartment just a lot more visible exhaust. Anyway, if I do have something internal that needs or warrants a rebuild:classic: I though about getting some more power under the hood without going to a V8 conversion. I just don't know enough about these engines yet to know If turbo's would work on an L-series engine. I've seen posts about using a ZX engine that's turbo'd but I don't know that I want to go that route. I want more power (like Tim the toolman) but not so bad as to create a ton of extra work. Thanks for any info you can provide.

I appreciate the feedback, thanks. Sounds like I should get some spacers before the weekend. I've got to think a little about cutting the insulator stop. BTW, what is the CG height on a stock Z?

Sorry to be so redundant here, but I want to be absolutely clear on my terminology so I don't ask the wrong questions. I realized that what I asked might be considered the urethane strut shaft bump stop at the top of the strut. I was not talking about this part but a bump steer spacer set that mounts on the lower end at the control arm. It's a part I've seen in VB and Zcarparts. Sal at motorsports suggested cutting down the urethane strut shaft bump stop by 3/4" (at the top of the strut) to allow more vertical travel. I'm wondering if this allows the control arm to be lowered by only a small amount rather than the 1" +/-. I believe (and I'm going to call motorsports again) that they recommended against the spacer at the control arm. Thanks for the patience.

I've got that book about "how to make you car handle" with some explinations and diagrams (not specific to the Z, but I understand the geometry your talking about). I think what your recommending is to use the spacers to get the CG back above the ground. What are the ramifications for not using the spacers? or is that not a reasonable option?

I'm going to be replacing my existing springs and struts next weekend with Eibachs and Tokiko struts. I read quite a bit about developing negative camber from the use of the Eibach's (in general, lowering springs) as it lowers the CG 1" +/-. I know a lot of the members have Eibach's on their cars and I'm wondering if the use of this bumpsteer spacer is prevelant or basically ignored? If the spacers where ignored did you do anything special to the alignment as far as camber adjustments etc.. to counteract the lower CG? I believe I read somewhere that increased bumpsteer detracts from cornering ability which is what I'm trying to increase. If I need the spacers to get the most out of this upgrade I would like to order them so I can install them when the car's torn apart. Thanks in advance for feedback.

The only thought that comes to mind about this comparison is, if you drop something on the floor at work your probably not a target for other 'undesirable' sorts of activities (not that there's anything wrong with it). Maybe this is the distinquishing factor between work and prison:D

ZV- Check this book out some time and you'll probably get more info and theories than you care too but a really good reference. The book is called "How to make your car handle" written by Fred Puhn ISBN #0-912656-46-8. It covers all aspects of handling; suspension, tires, springs and struts, basic dynamics of cars and capabilities in turning etc. If you still have some questions then I don't know what to tell ya. It's a pretty interesting book. I believe that your analysis is on the right track about less weight distribution over a larger area but I also think there is some factor in there for slip angles, friction coefficient, handling characteristics, tire height, CG of car weight dist. etc. I'm actually looking at a small section on the relationship of grip to weight. The last sentence says, "The rule is, when a tire is more heavily loaded, grip of that tire is reduced." Has to do with the vector forces of slip angle on the tire. I bet this book has the answer for you.

This was very cool of you to provide this information, thanks. Looks like there is a lot of useful info here.

I just bought a set of the Eibach pro-kit for my 260, $209 + tax for all four corners. Shox had the best price and some other parts places may match their price if you want to purchase from somewhere else.

I just installed my toyota calipers this weekend. Everything went pretty smooth with the exception of having the right parts (never fails). First if you are looking for some sites as Mperdue suggested in a previous post, go to google and type '240z brake upgrade toyota', I believe and you'll get several sites. Second, if you do this upgrade and you are using basic calipers/pads it's real easy. Buy a set of loaded calipers, cut the back plate, attach your new lines and bleed. If you do what I did then it can be a pain in getting the right parts. I bought unloaded calipers remanuf.'d and porterfield racing pads R4-S I believe. Some people don't like these pads (so I've read) and I will soon find out. Anyway, if you get unloaded pads make sure you get the pins that hold the pad in before you go to install and the spring clips, the pins from the Z caliper are too short and the cotter pin hole is covered by the new caliper housing and the Z springs are to small period. You don't need the shims with these pads. If I'm wrong about this, please someone shout. I had calipers and pads (no springs or pins). I didn't get the pins to hold the pads or the springs when I bought the other stuff so I had to go buy loaded calipers and change the pads in order to get the hardware (pins, clips). The stock pads come with a shim on them and I believe it's for squeaking. After chasing everything down it took just a couple of hours to change the front calipers, and then install new brake lines on the rear drums. So far so good. I do need to go back and bleed the system again as the pedal is a little softer and If I pump twice real quick the pedal gets very stiff very quick. I do stop better. I can get on them pretty good but not locking them up and get my nose to dive which I couldn't before. I'm going to fix the nose diving when I install my new springs and struts. Also, you can cut your back plates with a good set of metal sheers. I took about 3/8" -1/2" off each side and that was it. Good luck to those of you looking to make this switch.

Thanks Mperdue. Hopefully I can make the ordering switch.

This is going to be a dumb question but since I don't know the answer I'm going to ask it. What is MSA and do they have a web site. If the price is half @ MSA I'm going to cancel my current order and save some money. Thanks- the sooner the better!

I just bought some toyota calipers yesterday from checker auto parts here in Denver and paid $75.00 for the pair unloaded. I did get kind of lucky as the guy didn't charge me the core fee but still you do get that back. I was also told if I brought back any caliper in the box that would work. I'm going to keep mine just in case I want to switch back to stock parts. Also, you can get Kevlar pads R4-S high performance pads for these toyota calipers through porterfield for $89 for the pair. Call 1.800.537.6842 or go to the website for the # at www.porterfield-brakes.com. If you do order these pads try to get as much info about the vehicle the caliper would go on ie.. 1/2 ton pickup, 4wd etc. If your interested in braded hoses Nismo had the best price I could find @ $120 for a full set (all 4 corners). This is a little less than VB at $128. I couldn't find any less expensive. Good luck!

I'm looking for some feedback on the difference/preferences between the K & N air filters VS. the Longflo air filters VS. Stock. Anyone know where to get a braded hose kit (brakes) for less than $120?

Mini-Me- Stop humping the laser!

Hi gang- I prepairing to do the toyota caliper brake upgrade on my Z. I have a couple techinical questions about this upgrade. 1. Did anyone go with the 300zx rotor upgrade and what problems did you encounter?? I've read that doing the larger rotor requires having a spacer made to accomodate the caliper and keep caliper-to-wheel interference at bay. Will this change the offset on wheel selections down the road? 2. If the only upgrade was the caliper (no rotor change) did you need a spacer or did you simply rework the back plate and the 'S' shaped brake line. Did anyone get rid of the backing plate? 3. I've been reading about an air duct system that directs air onto the rotor to better cool it. Any thoughts or experiences? Apparently there's an inexpensive system using some dryer duct and bubble gum (just kidding). The dryer duct needs to be mounted on some brackets and fastened. Where and how? I know there were some recent postings on this topic but not covering these questions. I'm going to go to braided hoses and probably leave the stock master cylinder. If anyone can think of anything else besides the parts and a little elbow grease please share. It's always easier if you know the insider tricks! Thanks a lot for any input. P.S. -Since the rotor can be changed out is there a rotor that fits early Z's that has a five bolt pattern instead of 4? (this maybe a dumb question but...) and if so what happens to the rear since it's a drum brake system? P.S.S. If anyone has links about this subject other than washington z club I would appreciate it if you could post them. P.S.S.S. Sorry this is so long!

Thanks for the feedback. We'll have to see what happens.

I have not checked the battery tray area or the spare tire well. The bottom pict shows a hole on the slant of the frame that I can stick my finger into about a half inch or so and seemed as though some metal was peeling away. I didn't go any further until I got a comfortable feel about these rails. The rust does appear at the rear of the rails and there's another spot I forgot about above the rails in the rear part of the front wheel well that is about the size of a shoe, a clean hole on both sides. I have no Idea how easy/hard that would be to replace. I did pull up the carpet and it seemed solid and from underneath there wasn't much for 30 years.

Hi gang- Came across this 73 yesterday and just had a look at it. It's pretty nice looking on the outside, repainted over lime green. I've attached some picts of the underside. Specifically the twin I-Beams that have some rust. I guess my question is for the right price say $1500 or less is this worth looking at? The rust worries me and part of me says just turn and walk away as these are the main structural areas with damage. Any feedback would be great.

If you can get a catalog from victoria british, there are a couple of videos in the back of the catalog for $20. the one I have is the general tune up video (there's also a 6 hour video on just su carbs). Anyway this video is a homemade deal but goes over tuning the early z and starts out adjusting the valves. I thought it was worth the $20.

There's a cool site someone posted a little while back, it's a wheel size calculator. Here's the site, WWW.c5-corvette.com/tirecalc.htm FYI, in regard to the cost of the rims, I priced centerlines, billet series (any of them and was quoted $215/rim with the correct offset etc. thru discount tires. There pricy, but I like the look of ceterline better than the panasports. Don't know about weights or anything though. Turns out a 16" rim with 50 series is almost exactly the same diameter as a 14" rim with 70 series (stock) tire. I'm pretty sure this is stock. If it's not someone will let me know.