
Everything posted by preith
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Morton Crashes...
- Morton Crashes...
Bummer! I'm glad John is OK and good to hear the scarab will be rebuilt. Thanks for the inside scoop Ron. A quick google search yielded some good pics on this forum http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=503451&page=2 There was a youtube vid posted but it's already been removed.- Those Darn Miatas
"Those darn miatas" is right, but they contribute significantly to entry fees/track rental payment and in turn keep the cost down for the rest of us. I still can't get over how many there are, and accumulating, seemingly out of the woodwork. At our last event, Memorial Day weekend, of the 40 plus cars in the small bore group, over half the field were Miatas. Thanks for the pic, hopefully you made it through the weekend "contact free". Personally I'd be very concerned if I had to race with them, typically there's plenty of overzealous/overoptimistic driving to say the least.- June Sprints-Road America
Congrats Greg! And thanks for the summary, I was curious what happened to Brakke - would've guessed he spun or went off during the race. He's sure laying down some good times... I was quite surprised to see Kannard finishing 2nd. He's another local guy who ran an S30 and since gone to the dark side, won the sprints in '04 I believe. EDIT: I forgot to add, veteran racers passing under yellow on the caution lap seems to happen ALOT. The SCCA treated Brakke better than in my club, they promptly black flagged the pole sitter for the same on the first lap in a race of mine.- June Sprints-Road America
Good luck Greg. I don't see Prather on the entry list but Brakke is, give 'em hell!- Diff
Take this with a grain of salt as I have no experience racing with an open 180, but I'd play around with different gear lube first before going with a cooler. As Ron mentioned, try a heavy duty shock proof oil, I'm partial to Amsoil's severe gear, I run their SAE 250: http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/srt.aspx- Let's show vintage racing pictures. I'll start.
I was there as a spectator/observer. There's something to be said for not having to worry about anything and watching everyone else deliberate. It was a hot weekend too with temps in the 90's. Bill (red 240, 3rd pic) had that 914 on his tail the entire race, he was spent afterwards. Your friends 914 sounds awfully tame, but rightfully so, makes the most sense starting out with something like that. Andy Besic has a nice Ferrari replica which he's been running with us. He qualified on pole but DNF'd. Joe, other red Z won.- Brake Ducts - MSA Urethane Air Dam
I was only trying to keep mine as neat as possible. I've seen guys just lay the ducting in them but IMO it looks real ghetto. You could try adapting an inlet duct like this: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3624 It was a hoot battling it out with the 911, piloted by a veteran racer. My first year of racing, '05, only my 3rd event, I dragged past him on a relatively short strait, he later told me he was absolutely stunned at my straight line speed (gt2ish motor), I was on cloud nine. Unfortunately I crashed the car at the next event and tore up the all the front body work, goodbye air dam. @gnosez, good luck in Monticello, NY.- Brake Ducts - MSA Urethane Air Dam
I don't have a good pic readily available, but when I originally used the duct style airdam like this one: I simply bent up a c-shaped (lengthwise) piece of 6061, hole-sawed and welded a piece of 3" pipe to it, and attached that to the airdam with pop rivets from the back side, thereby leaving the nail side of the rivet exposed from the front. It didn't look too bad. You can kind of see it here: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/data/500/gingerman2.JPG @gnosez, ducting is, for all intensive purposes, a requirement on an ITS car.- Ever blow a Freeze Plug while Driving?? I did....
This is a very real concern for racers. I toasted a fresh race engine my first time out at the drivers school, 4 laps into it, because of this. The only hint of an issue was a small amount of water on the windshield, which I thought may have been from the car ahead of me. The temp gauge never climbed because there wasn't any coolant on it. I've added a low pressure coolant switch since and am religious about adding Permatex high tac sealant around the edge. The good news is the issue hasn't presented itself again since '04. The same thing happened to a fellow 510 racer too.- Arizona Z type front brakes
FWIW I have the same brakes and no knock back that I can tell, if present it's negligible. I do have it gusseted similar to Jon's. I did not have the issue with my non-gusseted 280 struts either (now using 240's). With that said I have to wonder if this matters as the gusset is there for strut flexing and the entire forging, including caliper mounts, would therefore move together. I am on ITS spec DOT's, perhaps slicks exacerbate the issue? My biggest problem with these brakes was rotor run out due to the combined hat/rotor tolerances. I have a local shop skim cut them whenever new ones are installed.- Let's show vintage racing pictures. I'll start.
That was our (Midwest Council's) first event of the year and no, I wasn't there. The red Z is Joe Ziltener's, he runs triple SU's on a homemade manifold. Greyghost has a few engine bay pics of the car in his gallery here. The black Z is Mark Atkinson's, he posts here occasionally as Kronoss. Mark won the race after Joe made a mistake and went off in 7. I'm very happy for Mark, he's had nothing but problems with the car up until now. Bill Oakes was also there with the ex-mountain motorsports ITS car that he's owned for the last 3 or 4 years, with one of my transmissions in it no less! Here's the race start:- Surge Tank Placement
No, only 1 pump required total, you need a return bypass regulator and a return line to the cell, which seems to be the norm, I'd venture to guess your car already has this. Another reason I prefer the in-tank, simplifies things a bit.- Surge Tank Placement
Hi Marty, IMO the best and safest place for the surge tank is inside the cell, though they aren't cheap. They also sell an internal pump setup too http://www.hrpworld.com/googlebase.cfm?key=Fuel%20Safe%20Center%20Mount%20Surge%20Tank%20Collectors%20-%20Plastic&form_prod_id=,179,179,179,_4548&action=product If you have a cell with two fittings (not including the vent) use one of them for the return and plumb it directly to the tank.- Let's show vintage racing pictures. I'll start.
Thanks Rob, very cool, that looks like the real deal, I'd like to know what venue/date it was taken, we can probably dig up some race results. The Frisselle car is in the background too.- Taking the Z to its first real track day
Funny! Porta-Potty's aren't exactly light either, I have to wonder if that was the "movers" primary motive.- will these rims fit
Which are in the link I posted, 4-100mm to 4-114.3mm, +36mm to +40 mm spacing, $215 for 4.- will these rims fit
Even if they had the same bolt pattern the offset will be too high, but you could most likely find an aluminum adapter to use them. These might work: http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=57_56&products_id=6- Mikuni HSR
There were pics of a very nice orange gnose with carbs similar to these, from a few years ago, but I cannot find any links at the moment.- Manual brakes on Z432R
You're right, I should have stated it differently. It's been my observation the majority of production based race cars use a 6:1 ratio. I'd like to see the circumstances under which 5:1 would be used.- Manual brakes on Z432R
Understanding Japanese isn't required. The ratio is determined by dividing the overall length (in this case 340mm) by the distance from the pedal pivot to the clevis pin (L1 - 70mm or 80mm). The resulting pedal ratio is listed at the end, they are 4.8 and 4.2. I this find puzzling because both would be suited for a boosted application at best. If they (Nissan) used these with manual brakes it's no wonder the pedal was hard. Simply shorten the L1 value to increase the ratio, again, 6:1 is optimal. Master cylinder diameter plays a role in pedal feel as well. A smaller diameter will give a softer feel.- 2010 Vintage Grand Prix at Mid-Ohio
The SVRA groups can be confusing, the '72 rule is blurry. It all depends on the level of prep. We discussed it briefly here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36348 In summary, technically any thing S30, up to '78, is legal for SVRA group 8, but again this is dependent on the level of prep. You could even run the stock fuel injection if you wanted to. I forget, but I beleive group 9 is actually for open wheel cars, or maybe Canam (their website is down at the moment) The other place you may see a Z is in 10 but these are typically the later GT2 style cars with flares/slicks and tube frames, partial or full.- Manual brakes on Z432R
Assuming it came with manual brakes, it's my guess they changed the ratio. Boosted cars are typically 5:1 (our Z's included), manual are 6:1. The tilton pedal sets are 6.2:1. My road racer is manual braked, the pedal ratio has been adjusted, and it doesn't feel too different from a typical car.- Let's show vintage racing pictures. I'll start.
From what I understand Logan's was the ex-BRE car. I was unaware Gerry Sr. build another one?? I did not know the Masons will be at Mitty either. What a bummer for me, I can probably make it down there next year with my car, but not this one. Gerry Jr. and the #3 are FAST. He clicked off some laps at Elkhart 10 years ago which still would have him in the top 5 at the same event. That's cool your car raced at Blackhawk. Yeah, check out the folders in the url, I did see some roadsters in there.- Let's show vintage racing pictures. I'll start.
I stumbled across these from various SCCA Nationals at Blackhawk Farms, Grattan, Mid Ohio. The #81 Gerry Mason, GT2, I can only assume this is the #3 BRE car The #53 is Ellis Meister. The #33 ZX is of course the BSR/Paul Newman, GT1. The #85 ZX is Logan BLackburn Here's the original url: http://mwphoto-misc.smugmug.com/Cars/SCCA-NATIONALS - Morton Crashes...
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