Zlishous

Thanks Enrique, however I guess I should be more precise in my needs. What I really want to know is: are there any different gauges that i can put in place of the clock that would be useful??? Thanks, Zlish

O.K., what is the deal with clocks anyway, why do they always break?? I really don't even need it. Are there any suggestions for a different gauge to go in it's place? Something useful? I was hoping someone would know why they are always failing. Thanks, Zlish:(

Kmack, I work with alot of Engineers and these could not be more true! Very funny stuff. Thanks for the laugh! Zlish

Nice Ride-looks great! You should come to California where u could drive it all the time!! Have fun, Zlish

I knew there was a reason this site was fun, thanks Mike very funny stuff-all true i am sure! My woman will not see this site! ZlishLOL

Thanks all! I think I will rent an engine puller and just get the whole engine compartment done correctly! Better now than more damage later, thanks again for advice, Zlish

Well I was trying to find a leak (from inside engine compartment to passenger pan), while i was looking I found a pen sized rust hole behind my battery near the wheel well. I know people who can weld (cheaply) but I am notsure how to proceed. One of the first things I would like to do is pull the engine (for working room and might as well rust proof and paint it now), i am a newbie when it comes to mechanics, are there detailed instructions anywhere that I can follow to pull an engine? Once that is done any suggestions to attack my damage? I am bummed!! The rest of the battery tray looks fine. Suggestions?????? Thanks, Zlish:tapemouth :tapemouth :tapemouth

Royce, put me on your "list" especially the vintage car race one, I would love to ride around sometime!!. I am in Santa Rosa, so Sears POint or Thunderhill would work for me! And I could always use new clothes! hope to see you around! Zlish E-mail me @fuzzyyellowball@msn.com (no cracks, it's a tennis reference!)

Franklin, have you gone to the SCCA sitte? That site can give you the mods via a rule book you can order. Also try the ZONC website, (www.ZONC.org) look under: competition. They has a good article on exactly how to prepare for AutoX and other links. Did you decide on a car yet? That other site I told you about has some pretty nice cars! How much do you want to spend?See ya out there, Zlish

XYZ, The guy who previously owned my car cut the stock springs on my car, (1/2 coil front, 1 coil in the rear) the cut ends were then heated and reshaped to give my Z a 2" drop all the way around. Handles great, looks cool ( you really can't tell that easy) and is a little less expensive trick (if you know someone that can do the work). Good Luck, Zlish

Ya know when I was 17 I walked uphill 20 miles to and from school, in the snow............. Zlish

That is sweet!! I want mine!Does anyone know more about this car? Zlish

I think anyone who has more than 200 post's (2ManyZ's) should be a God Star member instead of a Gold Star member (how do you get that anyway?) Either that or work for Yahoo as a Computer geek! Zlish

They put trianglur lights on J-Lo?? That poor girlLOL Zlish

Good idea, nice to update once in awhile! My name is Paul (no i am not an alcoholic) and I work in QA-Microbiology in California. I have 1 Z (74 260) 2 kids and several wifes (o.k. maybe not). I will AutoX this Z and will buy another down the line. I live in Santa Rosa, Ca. (northern ca.) and love the warm weather that we get here! Zlish;)

Franklin, one other place to look: www.collectorcartraderonline.com Search under 70-3 Z's in California, there are many too choose from! Zlish:D

Definatly research the title thing, I do not know enough about California law to give an opion on that. Patience is your best friend. I know it's hard when you want a new Z!! But there seems to be alot out there so be patient! Zlish

Yeah, 240 much cheaper, are you going to AutoX? That is my plan, a little touring Autox once a month. Good luck, check Zcar.com they always have some deals. As a matter of fact there is a black one in L.A. for sale right now for 1200.00 bucks, not a bad looking car either! Anyway, good luck. Zlish:cool:

Franklin, there are a couple of decent 240's on Ebay right now, around the same price, one is in San Diego and I forget where the other is (CA. somewhere), not bad deals on either one, just an FYI. Zlish

If JLo and the 350 where lined up next to each other, and you had to choose between one or the other, which one would you choose? Me, JLO all the way baby!! ZlishROFL

UUUHHHH Where is it?

Hans, Try this site it will meet alot of your needs (order thier Catalog) WWW.ZCARPARTS.COM (Motorsports Auto in California). Love your car, looks great! Zlish:cool:

To all, I hav efinally gotten it right and have posted the instructions!!! have fun!:eek: Zlish

O.K. Here it is I hope, I have tried a couple of times, so hopefully it works this time! Zlish:rolleyes: Datsun Tech - Modifying a 200SX 4.11 Diff for your 510 or Z 4 . 1 1 2 0 0 S X R 1 8 0 S w a p Recently I found a R180 with 4.11 gears in a '85 200SX. I decided to swap this into my '74 260Z to upgrade the 3.36 rear end that came stock with the car. Now most rear end upgrades for the first generation Z entails swapping the R180 for the hefty R200. This guarantees added bulletproofing of the drive train, especially wanted if you are running a high horsepower/torque engine. Additionally, Turbo 200SXs did come with 4.11 R200 rear ends. However, I am still running the stock L26 that came with the car, and will probably run it until the day it blows, since it's still standard throughout, even after a rebuild years ago, and has been true to me since I've owned the car since 1985. Therefore, I felt that the R180 4.11 upgrade will be sufficient for my needs. Additionally, it will swap into my '71 510 easier if I want to play with it there. By staying with the R180 rear end, it minimizes the amount of work that is entailed when adding a R200. Don't have to change moustache bar, half shafts, drive shaft,. the front differential mount and insulator, or the rear transverse link mount. However, this upgrade is not without it's share of work. The main problem is that the half shafts from the 200SX are CV type whose splined ends snap into the differential rather than the bolt in stubs found in early Z cars and 510s. I thought I could outsmart the engineers by pulling u-joint style half shafts from a 280ZX that use snap in ends. However, those were all R200 cars and the diameter of the splined ends are about 3mm larger. Therefore, no luck. I consulted Dave Carroll or Experimental Engineering in Seattle on the feasibility and process involved in this conversion. The following is a excerpt from the conversation, step by step on what is involved in the conversion. I think you can easily do this yourself, the only "special" tools you'll need are a torque wrench, a big hammer, and a 3/16" pin punch. Here's how you do it,step by step: 1) Drain the oil and pull the rear cover off the diff. 2) Match mark the bearing retainers (aluminum things with 5 bolts) on the sides of the diff housing so you can put them back on the correct sides and so they are indexed the same way. I make a small center punch mark on the retainer that corresponds to a similar mark on the housing on one side and the same except with two marks on the opposite side. 3) Pull the bolts that hold the retainers in. 4) Pull the retainers out *one at a time* being sure that any shims under them stay with the appropriate retainer. Make sure there are no shims stuck to the housing! I tie the shims onto the retainers with a zip-tie so there is NO WAY I can mix them up. When you pull the retainers the carrier will be loose, don't drop it! If the retainers don't want to come out by hand try this: Use a hammer and drift against one of the "ears" on the bolt flange to rotate the retainer. This usually breaks the seal and any paint loose so the retainer slides right out. 5) Pull the carrier out of the housing being careful that neither of the bearings falls off. The bearings should be a light press fit but sometimes they will slide off. If one does slide off be sure that any shims under it stay with it and zip-tie it to the corresponding retainer. 6) Clamp the carrier in a bench vise across the "flat" part of the opening with the ring gear up. 7) Match mark the ring gear and carrier so it all goes back together the same. Note that the gears are harder than your center punch so a carbide scribe works best. You can use a paint marker or felt pen but you must be VERY careful not to wipe off your match marks. 8) Flatten out the lock tabs for the ring gear bolts. 9) Pull the ring gear bolts and gently tap the ring gear down with a drift or block of wood. Work your way around if it's stubborn so it doesn't **** sideways. 10) Take the ring gear off of the carrier. 11) Match mark one spider gear and one side gear to the carrier. 12) Match mark one end of the spider pin (big pin going crossways through the carrier) near it's edge so you can re-install it with the same orientation. 13) Locate the small roll pin that retains the spider pin and tap it out with a pin punch. Don't lose it! it's the only "small" part in the diff. 14) Tap out the spider pin being careful that the bowl shaped thrust washers each stay with their respective spider gears and that the side gears don't fall out. I zip-tie the washers to the spider gears. Note: Some diffs don't have these washers. 15) Remove the side gears being careful that the thrust washers stay with their respective gears, use zip-ties so you can't mix them up. Note: Some diffs don't have these washers either. 16) On the donor side gears that had bolt-in stub axles, tap out the threaded inserts. You can do this by sitting the gear over the opening of a bench vise and tapping down with a drift. (If you bought new threaded inserts disregard this step.) 17) Line the spline dents on the threaded inserts up with the splines in the side gears you'll be using and tap them in until they feel "solid". (On new retainers there will be no spline dents.) 18) Put the side gears back into their respective sides of the carrier being careful that the thrust washers stay in place (if applicable). 19) Slide the spider gears back into their respective positions in the carrier being careful that the thrust washers stay in place (if applicable). 20) Put the spider pin back through the carrier lining up the match marks and line up the pin hole by eye. 21) Re-install the roll pin with a pin punch. 22) Line up the match marks and tap the ring gear back onto the carrier. 23) Install the ring gear bolts with lock tabs and torque them in a criss-cross pattern using three steps to come up to final torque. 24) Carefully bend the lock tabs back into position so the bolts can't back out. 25) If either (or both) carrier bearing(s) were loose on the carrier clean them and the carrier studs with acetone and re-install with their shims (if applicable) on the carrier with Green Locktite (stud and bearing mount). 26) Slide the carrier assembly back into the housing. 27) Carefully install one bearing retainer loosely making sure the match marks line up and the shims stay put. Don't force it! 28) Carefully install the other bearing retainer loosely making sure the match marks line up and the shims stay put. You may need to wiggle the carrier and rotate the pinion gear a little to get this retainer to seat. Don't force it! 29) Install the retainer bolts finger tight and check to be sure the carrier turns freely with the bearing retainers and shims fully seated. 30) Tighten the retainer bolts and check to be sure the carrier turns freely. 31) Put a dab of grease on the O-ring on each stub axle retainer bolt. 32) Install the stub axles and tighten their retainer bolts. Be sure the O-rings go smoothly into the chamfer in the stub axle face. 33) Clean the rear cover gasket surfaces and install the rear cover with a new (dry) gasket or Nissan silicone. If you don't want it to EVER leak (even with synthetic oil) use Nissan silicone and no gasket. 34) If applicable, wait an hour so the Nissan silicone has set up. 35) Add the diff lube of your choice. It's much easier to do on the bench than in the car! You're done! If you use this method EVERY part will go back together EXACTLY the way it was before so the diffs longevity will not be in any way effected by disassembly and reassembly. Notes: 1) This procedure works for R160s, R180s, R190s, and R200s. 2) R160 and R180 side gear threaded inserts are interchangeable. 3) R160 and R180 stub axles will interchange if you cut the dust covers off. 4) Nothing from an R200 will interchange with an R160 or R180. 5) Nissan silicone is about $20 a tube but is one of the best investments you will ever make. This stuff is so good that Nissan no longer uses oil pan gaskets on any of it's engines. Also, it will not harden in the tube like the crap they sell at virtually all auto parts stores. The job pretty much went as described. I didn't go with the Nissan silicon though, at $30 a tube locally, I figured I'd take my chances with a new Felpro gasket. Now the oilpan will be a different story, when the time comes. Getting the diff out of a Z is a big task. Unlike a 510 that slides out nice and easy, the Z. 1. Support the diff with a small floor jack (I had an extra) 2. Unbolt the swaybar and drop it out of the way. 3. Unbolt the driveshaft. 4. Unbolt the halfshafts. 5. Unbolt the mustache bar from the body and the diff. 6. Lower the diff so that it will clear the rear support brace to the xmember assembly. 7. Reinstall in reverse order. Remember to install the proper pinion gear from the donor car, or your speedo will be out of whack. A NOTE ON PINIONS: The more teeth on a pinion gear, the bigger in diameter it will be. Some pinion bodies will run the gear/shaft offset. Pay attention to this as you install the new pinion. If it feels like it won't go into the tranny, don't force it. Simply knock out the 1/16" pin that holds the gear to the body and swap it into the body of your old one (assuming that one is offset and the other is centered). This will put the gear at the right height when installed. Small gears go on offset bodies and big gears go on centered bodies.

Green Z, I have a 280z 5 speed tranny in her. I am happy with the 4.11 thus far, ia a little louder than stock rear (I have a 74 260 by the way) but the noise is really not noticeable. I will e-mail you the instructions as soon as I hunt them done. Zlish