Arne

Conversion parts are built by several small companies. "Jags That Run" (aka JTR) is one that comes immediately to mind. Can't think of the other. But it's not hard to do without a "kit", so that may not be much help either.

I've been using the 15208-43G00 on my car up until my last oil change, when that number was superseded by 15208-43G0A. That is what's on mine today.

DGVs are not good looking. You'd be better off looks-wise going back to the stock SUs. A good set of those will drive and perform nicely on a stock or mildly modified motor. As for "giving up the fun of driving", it sounds like your 44s are too much carb for your motor. Can we assume that the motor is mostly stock? Because on a modded engine, triple Mikunis can be pretty sweet.

^ Correct. There are no "official" technical approvals for this type of swap, certainly not from Nissan. I'm assuming you haven't bought the V8 car yet - if so, I'd look for a different car with original motor still in it.

Rebuilding them is messy, but not difficult. The question comes down to how pitted (or not) are the bores and pistons. On the flip side, $125 for a pair exchange sounds like a lot. Have you shopped around yet?

Venting not correct? Big ol' trapped air bubble in the tank?

While my original coil is black with red screen-printed writing, I believe that some of the original 240Z coils were blue in color. Not the same as the Bosch Blue.

I ordered the complete Precision kit from MSA when I painted my car 3 years ago. Most of the stuff is OK. Not perfect, but OK. The door seals are still too firm (hard to close the doors), and the rear window gasket hides too much of the stainless trim. I'll probably try the door seals from Vintage Rubber one of these days. Either that, or the Kia rubber, but I'm still not sold on Kia parts on my Z.

I ordered the complete Precision kit from MSA when I painted my car 3 years ago. Most of the stuff is OK. Not perfect, but OK. The door seals are still too firm (hard to close the doors), and the rear window gasket hides too much of the stainless trim. I'll probably try the door seals from Vintage Rubber one of these days. Either that, or the Kia rubber, but I'm still not sold on Kia parts on my Z.

Call DMV and ask them? I think 1975 and older are exempt in California, but if it were me I'd want to confirm that from an official source, not an internet forum...

I banned his user account for 3 months. I suspect that will be the last of this one. Mike, I noticed he/it checked "Airplane club" for the anti-spam question. Is there no way to require a correct answer to that question?

Never ruined one myself, but after almost 25 years working in tires and wheels, I saw plenty of customer rims ruined by it.

What he said. Plus some of that stuff can even be corrosive to some alloys. That stuff would be my very last resort.

Well, something to consider is the fact that ALL A/C kits for 240Zs are aftermarket. The "dealer installed" kits were aftermarket, and not all dealers used the same kits. Some used ARA, some Frigiking, some.... As a guess, the modern aftermarket kits (such as previously sold by MSA and Courtesy) are very similar to those used years ago by the dealers, with the obviously improved modern compressor. Other than that, much the same as what was originally installed in your car years ago. I would not expect the cooling to be much different than the '70s versions, although the rotary compressor will be smoother and perhaps have a bit less drag on the engine. Custom setups (such as Vintage Air) will be more work to install, and may require a custom heater box and controls, but are probably far more effective.

My car's label is exactly the same as you pictured. Gold label, part #14805-E4603.

MSA sells the same kit that Courtesy sold. Their web site says the manufacturer is moving their plant and they hope to begin filling orders again in March 2011. Might be worth a call.

Gorgeous color!

Mine (7/71 build date) is also gold. Pretty certain it was always gold, doesn't look like an age thing. Can't recall what it says, and I didn't drive it to work today, so I'll have to take a look at it later tonight.

You can bypass it temporarily for testing, but you are correct, don't eliminate it unless you change to a different (3.0 Ω) coil. If your car is suffering from the same issue as mine, I suspect that by-passing the resistor will either eliminate the issue, or at least raise the RPM ceiling noticeably. If it doesn't change things, I'll shut up, as my experience will no longer be relevant.

That's not always true. Pertronix recommends ~3.0 Ω total resistance. If you are using the stock coil (~1.6 Ω), you still need a resistor with the Pertronix. If you change to a 3.0 Ω coil, you should not run the resistor.Of course, the above is good in theory. I have been unable to make my car run acceptably with either the Pertronix or with a ZX dizzy. I've tried both dizzies with several different coils and with and w/o resistors. My best guess is that there is too much voltage drop at the coil in my car to run electronic ignition. I fought this 4000-4500 RPM fade-out on and off for a couple of years. Eventually gave up and went back to points. Car runs great on points, pulls cleanly to red line. Sold the ZX dizzy, still have the Pertronix and matching 3.0 Ω Pertronix coil on a shelf in the garage.

Quick and dirty first test - I'd temporarily bypass the resistor. If that is an improvement, connections and coil are the proper direction.

Sounds exactly like what I went through tracking mine down. Two questions - 1.) What happens if you change the timing? Say, 5 degrees either way. Does that change the rev ceiling? 2.) What coil are you running, and is it with or w/o ballast resistor?

According to the post in my original thread on this, I was invoiced for 14 hours for the roof work.

Speaking from the perspective of three years later, yes, it was the right way to go. No issues at all. I love having a slick-top.

PB is good for mild rust in the bores. ATF is good for de-gunking the rings.