Arne

Sounds like maybe.See number 17 on this link: http://classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=4942&d=1084548143 And look where the red arrow points on the attached picture.

Right side is the dash illumination dimmer, the left side resets the trip odometer.

Easy to find. Black Dragon - #53-676 (Left) & 53-677 (Right), $19.95 each. (Page 116) Don't have my MSA catalog handy, and can't get to their site. Factory part numbers are 26557-E4100 (Left) and 26552-E4100 (Right). Should run about $30 each at dealers who give club discounts.

Oops! Good call, I totally blew past that part.

You can borrow them from Schucks parts stores. When I did mine it was free as long as I returned it within 24 hours. Other parts stores have similar programs.

Yup, it's been done. A quote from the original post that started this thread.

Looks about right, but without knowing for certain I wouldn't take a chance on it. Might be for a Datsun/Nissan pickup, or who knows what?

Dunno. Have you called them and asked yet? If they don't, I'm sure you can get them from ZTherapy.

Ratios for the early Type A 5 speed are in the middle column of the attached spec chart.

Yeah, I'm watching that set, as they are very similar in condition to mine.

I have chatted with Jim, and also have later hinges on the driver's door of my yellow Series 1 and can confirm that the door doesn't fit properly. The problem is the same as Jim describes, the door is kicked out at the bottom.

Naw, the washer and dryer are in the garage. Wife gets testy when I set dirty, greasy parts on them. To clarify, the Hooker gasket set will only fit square port, carburated heads. No round ports, and no injector slots in the gasket.

Good point, Carl. Even my car, with only 60,000 miles on it will rarely if ever see much over 6000 RPM. Don't want to hurt it. Plus a stock L24 does tend to run out of breath about there. Doesn't do much good to spin it that fast anyway.

The replacements are $200. But read post #2 in this thread - replacing the fusebox is not the total answer. You need to fix the excessive current draw which causes the fuse to get hot.

Nope. Yellow at 6500 and red at 7000 is normal for 240Z.

When I swapped the engine from my parts car into my yellow 240Z last Fall, I attempted to use a normal manifold gasket with the headers. Not too surprisingly, I had exhaust leaks at the head. I knew I should use a header gasket, but was too lazy to order one ahead of time. Before I got around to ordering one of the paper gaskets from MSA, I remembered that the the gasket on the parts car was rather odd. After a bit of research, I found that what it had on it was a Hooker Header Gasket set. (Which makes sense, the header itself is a Hooker Super-comp.) Hooker no longer makes Datsun/Nissan headers, but they do still make the gasket set. Yes, I said set. The Hooker solution is a three piece gasket set, rather than one long gasket. The price was about the same as MSA, and the Hooker set was available locally (no shipping), so I ordered it. I installed the set today, and am pleased with the results. The Hooker gaskets seal nicely. They may look odd, but they work well. Here's hoping that Hooker continues to keep these in production, it gives one more option for header gaskets.

I've no experience with this on a Z, but on other cars I have dealt with in the past, polyurethane bushings are famous for squeaking.

That's the one. I'm attaching the picture here, so we don't lose it again. And if I'm reading the caption correctly, it looks like he's the former owner now.

Thanks, Mike! Much better this way! Back on topic, It looks to me as though the grommet in question might not have been offered separately. At least, there's no sign of it on the parts CD either with the outer boot, nor with the shift lever. So I'm assuming it either came with the outer boot, or the parts list was changed after the early outer boot was superseded. I can't be the only one with a car who still has this grommet, anyone else have one, maybe one that's not in the car right now?

Well, I still have the grommet for mine. I will take pictures and measurements of it when I next have the console apart.

The original no-lace boot was apparently part #75150-E4101, which was superceded by 75150-E8700 at some long ago point. The parts CD does not give a production date range for the early boot. So my guess is that as soon as the change was made, all replacements were the later lace-up boot.The original boot was made of pretty thin (read - cheap) vinyl, and actually could be reproduced fairly easily, I suppose, since I do have an intact one for a pattern. I may look into that. Here are some (rather grainy) scanned images from the first two Road & Track articles on the 240Z, which also show the early boot. We should perhaps move this discussion into Will's "240Z variations" thread...

I'd say not. Doesn't look quite right to me. Looks more like an aftermarket boot. If I had to guess I'd say that one looks like a WheelSkins brand boot.The attached picture doesn't show it as well as it could, but gives the idea.

My late '71 (7/71) still has its original shift boot without laces, so I know exactly what you are talking about. My boot is pretty deteriorated, so I'd love to hear of a source for this early style boot.

I found the thread, but no pictures since it was linked to the auction. Sorry... http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22586

First - in the US there are at least three different versions of the "E88" head, which I have heard referred to as "small chamber" (very late '71 and ''72), "large chamber" ('73 240Z) and 'big valve" ('74 260Z with larger exhaust valves). I don't know which you have, nor do I know whether the L28 you will be using has dished or flat top pistons. If you have dished pistons, you'll be OK with around 8-8.5:1 compression. But with flat top pistons you'll be pushing close to 10.5:1 which is fairly risky on pump gas.