nwcubsman

Might be better to ask your question on hybridZ.com.

The world is also good! Sorry I didn't have a good pic of the yellow dime. It was really nice. But I did like the burgandy, suare fendered 510 with the stock engine. Everything can't have a swap.

This one is also useful, when you are considering the rear end to go with your new tranny. http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/z.html

I believe that Motorsportdirect is in fact MSA in Orange, CA. They are just selling on ebay for more exposure. When they start calling their items "rare", I will really get pissed. "Rare" in ebay speak equals double what its worth.

Now, it is time to search again! http://cgi.ebay.com/Custom-Chrome-Plated-Hot-Wheels-Datsun-240Z-SWEET_W0QQitemZ190090061242QQcategoryZ45352QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Not sure why the pic doesn't show up as a thumbnail. chrome.bmp

Lol

Tom, That was really painful to interpret. I need an aspirin or glass of something strong.

If he is part of the club, $50. If not, $500. Seriously, you can find a 4 spd most days for $50. A 5 spd would be closer to $125-150. If you are in business, then costs are higher. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/pts/288447197.html

Bruce, So, which cars trophied? Name names!

Last group

Wait, there is more

I have some photos of the Portland Roadster show. Here are some of the Datsuns involved. The two clubs did well for themselves. I was given a really nice compliment on the train home, from a Corvette couple. Datsuns Northwest and Northwest Z, as Billy Crystal would say, "you look Marvelous". Hope you enjoy these.

Michael, I don't know which head is on your motor currently. If you have headers currently and you have round port headers, go with the P79 head. It flows just as well as the P90 unless you are looking to have head porting done. You may find the P90 better if you plan on getting radical. If your early L28 has rectangular exhaust ports, never mind.

I can see Mike now. Down on all fours with a toothbrush trying to get the black out of his intercooled exhaust tip!

Usually, A machinist will only take a skim cut of .010"-.030" and the cam and such is just reassembled. Unless you are tryinig to raise the compression. More than about .030" and the cam towers are shimmed. If you are talking about .3" (more than 1/4") I don't know if the head is any good or not. I'd think the valves and pistons may interfere. Fortunately heads are easy to come by, but the head may need to be gone through for valves etc. Can you still read the head number embossed in the casting? If you have lost .3", I think the lower part of the cast numbers will be gone.

I do know that Danny's Datsuns in Sutherlin, OR has a car with the finned R200 cover. I also know he has a car that he believed was a LSD and had the finned cover. Turned out it was an open diff. dannye@mcsi.net <dannye@mcsi.net> Good Luck

My guess is that where DMV is concerned, plates stay on the appropriate car, no exceptions. But I've never asked, nor would I if I were planning on switching them. The gent I bought my silver car from had a CA plate that said ULTIM8Z. This was a blue plate. He went and had them reissued in the newer white plates, but he never put tags on them and he continued to run with the blue plate. I now own the white plates, but he would not give up the blue plate. I suppose he would try and apply it to another Z if he ever gets another.

One running, one not. Still cruising, still lazy!

!old!

Okay, you may be tired of hearing this from me, but this was my personal experience. Almost the same setup here, except I still have the electric fuel pump and newly rebuilt Z Therapy carbs (what a beautiful thing to see). Cold idle was good, but after a 30 or more minute romp down the freeway, the farther I drove on the surface streets the more idling problems I had, to the point of dying at a traffic light or in my driveway. I had the luxury of having personal help at Z Therapy due to my frustration. After futzing (is that a word?) around for months and consulting with any number of people, someone drove it and decided my valves were too tight. Wow!, what a difference. Best of Luck!

AT Burnout = rear diff w/ 4.36:1 gears + '83 Maxima AT. really tall overdrive to compensate for the really low gearing in your 1st thru 4th to allow decent mileage on the freeway. Good luck with all that just to replace your tires too often.

Hey Mike, Congrats. You must be feeling great after all this time. I've seen a bit of the progress and it does look nice. It is good to have friends. Hey Loren, Hope you're feeling good yourself these days!

Mike, Don at Oregon License Plates sells plate in varying conditions. He does sell legally restored plates, but he will admit that they are for show cars due to the price. He will guarantee the the DMV will accept them. There is also a guy in Gresham that sells vintage plates much cheaper. I cannot find his name right now, as I must have deleted our e-mail conversation from a couple of years ago. They both can tell you which plate is correct for your car. If I can come up with his name, I'll repost. A couple of sources can get you a number you prefer. I did buy a set on ebay for $10 and that is what I am using on my silver car. Got them from a guy in Condon, OR. I have vintage plates on both cars. You should expect to pay around $175 to license your car with them the first time around. It most likely won't be for 2 years as the plates are embossed with the month and that will become your renewal month. It will cost $104 thereafter to renew. As Arne says, they are then vanity plates. ( I just renewed last week ) I would caution you about licensing your car as Special Interest. You are only allowed to drive your car to an event. The police here in Gresham are pretty wise to it and after all, your car is "arrest me" yellow.

Most of the swaps I have seen have cut the tunnel about 1". Most are really butchered and would be unacceptable to me. I would avoid this if it is possible. If the tunnel is cut and not the console, and you can seal the tunnel (weld up the other rear side of the hole) to make the inner shift boot work, then go for it. It is done all the time and most enthusiasts wouldn't make the change if it looks like garbage.

Chuck, If you plan on keeping the car, it still worth restoring. When you change to classic car insurance or retitle in another state, they will want to see the VIN. Be sure the engine bay tag and the firewall stamping match, and you should be fine. I'm not aware of the process to restore the tag on the dash, but there must be a way since the dash can be swapped. I'd not worry about it if it was for me or my family. It would be of some concern if I were looking to buy it from you.