EScanlon

I used Rust-O-Leum's Satin Black for the center spokes and hub. The finish is almost exactly what the original was. For the wheel, I used a fuel proof clear urethane, but having looked at the finish Beandip got on his, I would recommend using his paint for the wood part. I'll contact him and ask him to post what he did.

I'm partial to 240's but the 260 and early 280 are so similar other than the bumpers and electronics. Having lived in Michigan, and knowing that you salt the roads, my vote would be to find a car out of the South West, Arizona, New Mexico, West Texas. My wife's 84 Sunbird even with "rust-proofing" and being carefully cared for, by 1990 was showing the beginnings of cancer. I can't imagine what a 30ish car is going to look like unless it's been garaged very very carefully, and literally been pampered. At that point that car is going to be someone's baby and it's going to take a pretty penny to get them to give it up. Unless you find an estate sale and then, well, you know what I mean. This may sound far-fetched and even somewhat expensive, but in the long run, I think that EVERYONE here will agree that the biggest problem is RUST. Trust me, you can't go too far in trying to get a car with the LEAST amount of rust. Just my 2¢

The "spring" between the column and the steering wheel, are you referring to the little copper contact arm? Because that's the ONLY item that could be construed as a spring between the steering wheel and the column. I'm thinking that when you disassembled the whole steering wheel assembly in order to get paint on all the spokes and center part of the body, you had to disassemble the center horn portion. When you did that, you also completely disassembled the horn actuator mechanism. The horn actuator mechanism has a big round spring that keeps it up off the contact portion of the wheel that the center nut pushes down on. Without this spring, the contact plates between the horn actuator plates would come into contact with each other. Additionally, did you check to make sure that the contact wire for the horn from the back to the front of the steering wheel did not come into contact with the other portion of the contact plates? Let me list and paraphrase: The steering column has only the nut and spindle to receive the steering wheel body. The combination switch has a copper tab that sticks out and comes into contact with the back of the steering wheel. This should make firm contact in order to NOT give a warbly tone due to intermittent contact. Check the angle of the contact surface to maximize the contact. Additionally there are a couple of steel spring pins inserted in to the back of the steering wheel which in turn de activate the turn signal mechanism. The steering wheel assembly has a wire that goes through the steering wheel hub body that connects the back friction plate to the contact plate of the horn switch. The nylon round piece gets the contact plates mounted to it via the three screws around the ring, and the rings are separated from each other by the pressure of the spring against the little cone top hat piece and the center hub of the steering wheel. The nylon piece is what keeps the spring compressed, as well as keeping your center pad mounted on to the steering wheel. Look this assembly over, I'm thinking that this is where you have your problem. If necessary, e-mail me and I'll see what I can do to help.

DO NOT USE ARMOR ALL!!! In my experience and others who have also had the same experience, that stuff is worse than heroin for your dash. It causes you to have to give it a fix on decreasing intervals with diminishing results. The stuff I used to advocate strongly was sadly, removed due to lack of sales. I can understand why, it didn't require re-application on a weekly basis and it lasted for months! That was Clear Guard by Turtle Wax. I wrote them and they said that slow sales were the reason for it's discontinuation. They recommend a Formula 2001 Clear Protectant, which I haven't tried and not familiar with. But just don't use Armor All, I KNOW that stuff is some nasty sh!t, and you WILL regret it.

At $25 a pair, even US $ they would be a bargain for just the Lexan covers WITHOUT the chrome trim. The ones I am looking for have a distinctive chrome trim around the headlight cover, and I would seriously question their condition at $25.00 a pair. But I will call and ask. Enrique

Looking for a pair of Headlight Covers with the Chrome Trim for a 1971 240Z. Let me know how much you want for them, and I'll also pay shipping. Thanks in advance. My zip code is 98685 Enrique Scanlon

I've found that a drop of just a couple psi can alter the effort required even in a power ASSIST steering equipped vehicle. Don't know or have information regarding the rest of your questions, but sometimes the best fix is the simplest.

Hey guy, welcome to the club! Regarding a Gas tank, it happens to be one of those parts that are hard to find period. Are you looking for one due to leaks in yours or because of fumes in your cabin? Are you sure you need a replacement and can't refurbish yours? Sometimes some of the things I've mentioned are simple fixes and you don't need the major replace. Again, Welcome Enrique Scanlon

Gene: The 240 system has a pair of vents in the rear of the vehicle providing continuous air exhaust when the vehicle is moving. The Heater select vent that differentiates between Vent and Heat only changes the position of the inside flap that determines whether you get air out of the center and side vents. In both positions the Fresh air is open and allowed to bring air in. In this respect I was in error, but the check of the vent/heat flap rather than being behind the heater motor, is on the main housing, but connected on the left hand side of the box. If you have this flap open to get air out of the center or side vents then NO air is being forced through the heater core. I am aware of 240's with Air Conditioning but only in the late 71 and up models. I may be wrong on this so someone please double check me. To summarize the Heater Control Panel lever operations: To Heat the car: Air lever set to Heat. Temp lever set between OFF and HEAT depending on temperature desired. Def Lever set to Room (Floor). To Defrost: Air lever set to HEAT. Temp lever set between OFF and HEAT depending on temperature desired. Def Lever set to DEF (Inside Base of Windshield). To Ventilate (Forced) Air lever set to VENT. Temp lever has no relation to the operation, BUT usually set to off. Def Lever has no relation to the operation. Closed: Air lever set to OFF Temp lever set to OFF. Def Lever has no relation to the operation. This is from the Owner's Manual for the 1971 240Z.

Geez BadDog sorry, you must think I'm a real jerk for not responding, but your post just got by me and I didn't see it till just now. As far as which method to use, I prefer spraying, but hang on, I also have 3 different air brushes I use. I have a Testors, a Badger and a Pactra? (not sure) as well as a touch up Binks. Depending on the finish I want, I'll get the liquid as if for brushing, then the thinner for air brushing and then pick the gun based on the coverage, area and finish I want. In some cases, it's just as easy to buy the spray can as they sell it. For example: Datsun Side Fender Emblems: I would use the liquid Gloss White with mild thinning after having used the Semi-Gloss (also known as Satin) Black Spray. The Black either by buying their rattle can or mixing and spraying my own. The black semi-gloss tends to look better sprayed than if brushed. Brushing tends to leave brush marks unless you thin, and then if you thin, sometimes leaves thin spots where there isn't enough paint to cover. The White can be literally poured into the letters as long as you place the emblem in such a way as to make the emblem nice and level. (Use a round bubble level for this) This will allow the paint to flow out and give you the "cloisonne" effect of the originals. I use a Pana Vise with the multiple setting swivel head to adjust my emblems until they are perfectly flat and level. I use a bubble level from the old phonograph player days to set up high end turn tables. The bubble level is put on top of the face of the emblem and the vise is moved until the bubble registers dead center. When I pour the paint, I use the small squeeze mixers available at the hobby store to mix small amounts of isocyanate glue or epoxy. This allows me to add paint drop by drop. As far as whether to use Flat Black, or Semi-Gloss or Satin (and believe me there is a difference between Semi-Gloss and Satin) my thoughts are these. Flat tends to capture every bit of the tiniest bit of dirt and dust and somehow never seems to give it up. In short order it looks grungy. Additionally it is very hard to paint with a brush without leaving brush marks. Spraying works best with this, but when you thin it out, it can "gloss" up if you aren't careful about making sure the paint is nice and stirred and STAYS stirred. Semi-Gloss can look very nice, and since the pores or top skin is generally sealed, won't catch a lot of dirt, BUT it does show SOME shine. This shine can cause it to not look "right". In my experience much more forgiving as far as brush marks, but not care free. Satin has the best of both Flat and Semi-Gloss Paints but the problem is that it isn't very easy to find in a liquid form. You can find it in a spray can, and I've found that Rust-O-Leum's Satin Black is the BEST color match for the interior trim pieces of the 240. As far as a masking material? I've used regular painter's masking tape, available at the hardware store or the paint store. There are two General types, one is the standard Manilla Yellow and the other is the Bright Blue. The difference is that the Bright Blue is supposed to give you crisper edges than the yellow. You can even get the blue in vinyl for the thinner widths. If you were planning on doing pin stripes, there is a third type of masking tape that is very expensive, but it is a cross between plasticized masking tape and vinyl. It gives you the best of both, BUT it is very expensive. It's main advantage is that the widths are VERY consistent and true. Although this may not be critical for most uses, it can be critical if you are laying down two stripes of differing widths and you want them separated by a given dimension. Masking Film? I use a latex film called Mask-It. Generally only available through your higher end automotive paint shops, and don't be surprised if they have to order it also. Very expensive, about 20-30 a quart. It's main advantage is that you can use it directly out of the can, it will give you a very thick latex coating that you can write on and then cut very exactingly with a razor blade or X-Acto blade. You can also thin with water and spray on the surface you are working with. There are other masking films both as a film and liquid, best thing I can tell you is to ask the clerk at the hobby store and see what he recommends. Then try it until you find the one you like. Hope this helps, and again sorry for the delay.

Although you might be getting the "right" response from the Brake Fluid, don't forget that it WILL absorb moisture from the air and that it won't burn. So, you are dealing with a fluid that will gain moisture and that if aspirated into the cylinders won't burn. Doesn't sound like something I would want in there.

Emblems and other hard to find items: Andy Russel @ 480-217-7322 z@datsundude.com

Although you might be able to save yourself money by doing the job yourself, there are several things to consider. First, your mechanical ability. If you can do the basics; change oil, filters, spark plugs etc, but wouldn't think of getting underneath a car to drop the tranny to do the job, then maybe having someone else do the job is the way to go. Second, how well equipped your garage is for this type of work. If you already own a jack, jack stands, a creeper, an engine hoist or tranny dolly (don't know if either one is required) a full set of metric tools, a clutch alignment tool etc etc, then you're set up for it. If you have to scrabble through several tool boxes and borrow a friends tools in order to put together the tools you need, you probably are not. Lastly, how much your time is worth. If you are a busy professional, and don't wish to spend the whole afternoon or whole day on the weekend doing this, then by all means use the mechanic. If you can afford it, and the guys reputation is a good one, then by all means have him do the work. Doing this type of work is definitely a "bragging" point, but then again how often do you need to "prove" that you have it? Myself? I go to the mechanic to get a basic tune-up, valve adjust and other heavy mechanical. The reason? Simple, I'm an old body man. Give me a fender to wet sand, great! Tell me to change the oil in the bugger and I'm making an appointment with the mechanic. Is it effete? Maybe, but my car runs like a champ, I'm not posting about how frustrated I am about it not working and I have someone with over 25 years experience working on my car. Cheap? Probably not, but in my book it's cheaper than my hazzling with it. Now the amount? It may be that $500-$600 is expensive, but is that a NEW clutch? What about other parts it will require? To me, it may be that you can find the job cheaper, but then again it might be with cut rate parts, by people who think a Z is an old Jaguar made for Japan. I'll stick to my Z specialist, even if he's a bit expensive, but when he fixes my car, she purrs! Just my 2¢

POR is more closely related to Isocyanate glues than it is epoxy. Don't know whether MEK will thin, cut or nullify it. I do know that the POR folks do sell a thinner for clean up and for thinning for spray painting. The key thing on POR is that it uses humidity either in the atmosphere or in the rust that it is painted over to cure with. Additionally, MEK to thin epoxy? Someone double check this, but I thought it was Acetone that you used to thin epoxies.

Brian just a couple ideas. Re: the engine noise. Contact Gary (Luggnut73 on Zcar.com. Different handle here, but don't remember) He's also in the Forest Grove, Hillsboro area. He's pretty knowledgeable as far as engines, at least much more than I. Worst case post a message to Luggnut73 and he should answer. If you want to get a hold of him right away, send me a Private Message and I'll send you his e-mail address. (sorry don't have his permission to post it freely) Re: the Spindle Pin. My mechanic (told you I wasn't a grease monkey, but go ahead and ask me body / electrical) does his one of two ways. If the lower arm, strut, brake houseing can be removed from the car, then he uses a hydraulic press and a blow torch. If he can't then he uses a combination of the torch and a double nut on the end of one of the threaded ends and tries to get it to turn. That's the trick, once it turns you can get it to eventually slide out. Good Luck I'm in Vancouver Wa just across the Columbia. Gary (Luggnut73) is down on the Oregon Side down by your area. We've been talking with some of the other guys in the area about getting together and do a "mini" drive-in someplace. I'm currently up on stands getting the last of a few repairs done, so I'm hurrying. Let me know if you're interested Enrique Scanlon

Can't imagine that it would be impossible to "tap" POR 15. After all, if the problem is that you got it into the threads, then use the drill bit that would ordinarily drill the hole into which you would then insert the tap, then chase the threads with the tap. Remember, taps are made to cut threads in METAL and as hard as POR 15 is, I can't imagine it to be harder than metal. I would think that the worst thing to happen with the POR and the tap would be that the POR would essentially shatter.

I have a set of wheels that also didn't come with center caps. Not being pleased with the no-cap look I called around and found a solution at a Tire Center here. It's called Les Schwab, but I doubt seriously that you would have them back East. So, check the YP and look in Tire or Auto, Wheel. You get the idea. Call them and see if they have a "universal" center cap. That's what I bought for my car. To that Universal Center Cap, I added a set of screw on Knock Off Caps in black which resulted in a very sporty and distinctive look. Now I just need to finish polishing and painting the wheels and the look will be pretty much complete. The only thing I'm looking for now is a nice set of the Z center cap Stick ons. MSA no longer has them. Any ideas out there?

Give Mike at All Z East Recycling Center. They specialize in Z cars and have a lot of them all years. Don't know what a dash would cost, nor how much to ship it, but if you tell Mike that you're interested in one that he wouldn't normally be able to sell, he should be able to give you a good price. All Z East 1-800-533-5659

If what you are looking to do is save bucks then buying a "poor" dash and shipping it is NOT the way to do it. Shipping a DASH CAP only cost me about $25 from Las Vegas to Vancouver Washington, and this was due to the size and bulk of the shipping container. Some carriers won't accept it without an oversize charge. A complete dash I'll bet is going to be closer to 50 or 60 just from California to Seattle. I think you'd be better off finding a dash in the Seattle area. There is a boneyard in Portland Oregon which will have some dashes in "ok" shape, which would probably fit your requirements, but you would still have to get down here to transport up. But I bet even that would be cheaper than shipping it. Just out of curiosity, why would you want one in bad shape?

The rubber "squeegee" that you want is only available by buying the complete chrome strip. It is available though. The Inner "Fuzzy" Strip is only available if you buy the door panel. There are no doubt several sources out there, so you may be able to find something and make it work. My contact is Andy Russel (z@datsundude.com) or 480-217-7322. Good Luck.

I think that you should be real careful in jacking the 240. Unfortunately, the fact is that the sheet metal used in its construction is not the strongest in the world. Add to that the fact that many of these cars have some form of debilitating rust affecting what would ordinarily be a strong structural component and then top it all off in that when the car is jacked up, and is relatively solid in its stance, we forget that it is on jacks and get in and out of the car as if it were on tires. The end result? Jack Stand Damage. For that matter, where you place the stands is as important as to how you jack the car up. The jacking points identified in the owners manual are for use by the little scissor jack and only for momentary use to change the tires, and only one corner at a time. For both front or rear tires off the ground, I personally prefer the use of ramps. This allows me to get underneath and do the bulk of the work there. For situations where the front or the rear must be jacked and you will be working with the wheel on one side, then I use a jack stand mounted to the first SOLID frame mount I can find, and the ramp on the other side. Just my 2¢

For some of the emblems you are much better off spraying whenever possible. But I found that to get a good thick and smooth coverage instead of using Automotive Aerosol I found that the Aerosol Paints to fuel proof and cover R/C Planes and Boats worked much much better. Don't get the stuff to paint the undersides of the Lexan Bodies as they won't shine. Get stuff like Pactra Formula U, or Top Flite Lustre Kote. The color intensity is great, it only takes a coat or two and they flow out much nicer. Additionally it almost seems as though the paint stays flexible and hence won't chip as easy. Just my 2¢

The VIN Serial numbers were consecutive through the run of the model. That is his vehicle is #3435 of ALL the 240's and not just of the 1970 production year. Additionally Wally, the first letter in the VIN should be an H and not an A. The H is used to denote an L24 engine. The L identifies Left Hand Drive, the S30 identifies the Body Model type or Car Model and the last numeric digits the serial number within that Car Model.

I believe if you go to http://www.zhome.com/ you will find a bit of information on the Automatic 240's. If I remember properly, the automatic was never offered in the Series I body style, only in the Series II and later. Of the approximately 250,000 240's produced only like 23,000 were automatics. (about 9% if I recall) Since many enthusiasts through the years have bought and resold the automatic cars, many of them have had the transmission replaced with a manual shift due to the higher popularity of the standard over the automatic. Some owners feel that an original automatic 240 is going to be in better condition today, simply because it hasn't been abused or stressed during it's time on the road.

The lines from MSA can get spendy. I would recommend getting a copy of the premiere issue of Sport Z magazine, as it had an excellent article on how to replace the vent lines using standard fuel hose. I believe I also posted a list of the hoses you would need on this board, they are available from NAPA.