240260280z

These are easy cars to work on. Your effort also unearthed a new fault that may become common to these aging cars. It will help others in the future. Now enjoy driving Philip

Yeah UFO... loved it when I was 5 years old... ever see the pilot movie called Doppleganger? http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0064519/

Cool, he made the Shuttle on Star Trek... thus the link http://www.c-we.com/piranha/GeneWinfield.htm

From my fav Brit sci-fi series:

So I know of: Ferrari 250 GTO Shelby Daytona Cobra Toyota GT2000 Any more?

Luv it... but 2009? did it ever get off the ground?

this thread will help you get the cob webs out safely http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?42066-Turning-Over-240Z-engine

Same stuff. It will work down into rings and oil/lube and maybe break up rust ring-wall bonding.

Yes 280z pads will work. Here is another supplier: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SBC03 for brake line it is 3/16" dia and the fittings are "Japanese" M10 X 1mm Copper Nickel Steel Alloy is good stuff. All steel will rust. Stainless steel is too hard to work with for most DIY-ers

CD2 is not an oil as Threehz mentions. I thinks oils will trap dust and dirt. CD2 drys hard so it does not do this. TIP: If you want to rinse something but have it dry quicker (like acid treated metal or wet sanded metal), rinse with boiling water.

Bonzi

I can ring you and answer some questions. Just send me a private message with your number and time zone and a convenient time to call.

The lowest cost overhaul would be to - replace the two rear wheel cylinder seals (kit with rubber parts ~$6.95 each side) http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/zr/full.aspx?Page=53 - replace rear shoes ~ $49.95 - replace rear spring kit ~$9.95 - replace master brake cylinder seals (kit with rubber parts ~$9.95) - replace front pads ~19.95 http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/zr/full.aspx?Page=51 http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/zr/full.aspx?Page=55 Hope your front discs,rear drums, caliper, and master vac brake booster are ok. You will need brake fluid and caliper grease.

s2000

just keep the old parts in a box... reinstall if you ever sell to someone who whats the original parts

My experience: The convertibles have big blind spots. The dash and gauges are too hard to look at. Here is a great way to see real world opinions from owners. Just read about 30 reviews on any car you consider and you will see trends such as : "bad fuel mileage" or "transmission leak" or "no problems just gotta change oil" etc. I did not read any of the 2004 Mini reviews in the link below but a few months ago but I did for some checks for Honda automatics from 2000-2003...the site saved me from making a bad recommendation to a friend: http://www.edmunds.com/mini/cooper/2004/consumer-reviews.html Maybe your wife would like a Toyota Celica, Honda S2000, Mazda Miata, Toyota MR2 Spyder or Civic Coupe with leather instead of Mini?

Yes, for a quick test just move the plugs 180: Right now you have 153624 Rearrange to 624153 Popping intake could be timing or running lean

Glad to help. Yes I have a 77 280z as well. Lots of pics here : http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ and some here:http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/members/philippilgrim/

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- Distributor shaft from Oil pump could be 180 degrees out and the piston one at TDC could simply be top of exhaust stroke rather than top of the compression stroke.... recheck - distributor rotor will have swept past #1 post by ~ 10 degrees advance when crank is at TDC.

Another before and after CD2 is dry (sort of matt finish)

CD2 is incredible.That and Redline MTL are the only two "snake oil" bottles that work. I just used CD2 on my S2000 and I am still amazed every time I open the hood. Here is someone else's S2000 example (CD2 Still Wet)

Oh yeah, if you suddenly have a 3000-ish RPM rev limiter on a 280z/zx then you will have to dry the TPS

0. Engine is not hot at all (Important) 1. Start with a hot day and a bucket of very soapy water (dish soap is great). You can use a degreaser spray if you have a lot of oil and dirt... maybe even power wash 2. Get a variety of brushes from the kitchen/bathroom section of a walmart or a dollar storeas well as a big soft carwash brush. I like this gentle brass brush too: 3. Wash several times and scrub then rinse with a hose and a shower/soaker setting on a hand sprayer. No need to do the alternator (you can bag it with a grocery bag to keep dry) 4. Dry engine then start car and idle with hood down to dry further. 5. When dry, spray engine (metal and hoses) with CD2 engine detailer, let sit for 1/2 hour, idle car or drive and you are good to go (no need to wipe this stuff at all...just spray and walk away). Take before and after photos. Use oil, grease and lithium grease for the typical locations (hood hinges, latch, battery terminals, etc) If you have rusty iron/steel just get some ospho (Ace Hardware) in a cup and a toothbrush or small paint brush to dab... you may want a rubber glove because ospho spatter is like mild fire ants on your soft under forearm