240260280z

They even fake the air the citizens breath. http://www.washingtonpost.com/blogs/worldviews/wp/2014/11/10/unable-to-clean-air-completely-for-apec-china-resorts-to-blocking-data/

I clicked on "mobile" at the bottom of the first page on the first day and I can not revert back. The screen is minimalistic for sure

Taiwan and Mainland China are two different regions with respect to geography but more importantly with respect to cultural acceptance/apathy towards corruption and fake goods. Taiwan is very western and proactive where as mainland China is very communist and corrupt. Hong Kong is the last bastion of the western ways but is being swallowed.

There is a fusible link on the +pos battery terminal cable. Check to see that it is plugged in. Most 280z problems are simply corroded wire connections. This page is a good starting point: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html

*LIKE*

You are positively possessed Mr. R!!!

Beware of the fuel depth. Keith says to set it at same level for all applications.. this resulted in a rich cruise for me that I could not jet-out. The fuel level was just too high and the passage to the aux venturi slurped it up when it should not have.... a lower fuel level would have prevented this. Since the fuel consumed at cruise was much less than at "full song" the fuel in the well stayed at the same height and was sucked up slower than the main jet regulated. The only good thing in that white paper is the advice of disabling circuits when doing basic tuning... you have 5 circuits with a typical set up: 1. Idle 2. Cruise 3. Main 4. Choke 5. Acceleration You can disable the mains by removing the jets. You can disable the acceleration by replacing the bleed-backs with bolts You can disable the choke at the lever There is a lot of excellent info on this forum that I think exceeds Keith's with respect to its usefulness. I can send you something *very* useful if you want. I can't recall if I have your email... send me a PM and I'll blast it off. Here are some useful docs: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/44405-dcoe-documents/ For tuning your carbs, iteratively get the cruise where you want it by disabling the mains and accelerator circuits. You can adjust fuel level and swap idle jets to get it right. After you get the cruise, set the idle then install the mains and get the 3500 to 6500rpm WOT where you want. Typically ~ 12.5 to 13.5. After all of this is good, stick an O2 on the manifold to capture transients (they get subdued at the tail pipe) and install the accelerator circuit and get the gas-stomp transients right.

that works too!

Great team work..thanks guys! Solved for interoperating with vac advance: the lever would activate an electrical switch to power or gnd (what ever is required) the 1`2-92 contact to retard the timing at start... no more empty lever slot and easier starting

great idea but .....I want to use the zx distributor... newer........ I wonder if the extra connection on the early turbo distributor retards? I'll have to look in an fsm.

Well the problem for nice triple set ups comes with disabling the vac advance however 20 degrees at cold start is tough on the motor... pulling the choke lever and "retard" lever will make for better starting.

Mainland China factories can fake anything. Beware. It usually lasts only long enough for you to buy it and try once.

Why does it advise to shorten all valve guides at the bottom of the ad?

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/46941-emergency-help-needed-anybody-willing-to-lend-me-sus/ http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/47304-1972-float-adjustment/

Install a lever next to the choke and wire it to the vacuum advance connection inside the distributor (remove the vacuum advance canister). The next step is to adjust the cable so that it swings the full excursion of the advance. The final step is to set the nominal advance with the lever in the middle. In theory this will allow you to set the timing in the middle then push it to dial up more advance for cruising on a highway and pull it to reduce advance for starting the car. I was trying to come up with a way to increase fuel efficiency then this eureka moment fell upon me . I think I hear Lazeum smiling You could also make the lever into an ejection seat activator.

http://eugene.craigslist.org/pts/4724948186.htm 240z for $750 ine Eugine.l

Maybe add our forum to the external links on the wiki page or ad a hyperlink in the body tot a new entry called "Z Car Clubs" for the world

also disconnect the choke cables when trouble shooting.

From the video: - you are running on your rear carb only. Q. What needles do you have? Experiment: Try dropping the front jet down enough so that the car will run when you disable the rear carb... if it is at ~2.5 turns down and there is enough air to chug along then your front carb is fine. If this is the case then focus on the rear carb.

I like seeing you use the tap set young grasshopper

some references: BSR-260Z-IMSA Photos by psanders240 | Photobucket Authentic Bob Sharp ?75 Datsun IMSA GTU Z-Car | Bring a Trailer IMSA GTU Datsun 240 Z Race Car Restoration | The Car Build Index BOB SHARP RACING DATSUN, Paul Newman..Combinaison gagnante https://dattosankureiji.wordpress.com/2013/02/18/pantazis-family-bob-sharp-racing-imsa-260z-replica/ Datsun 240z, 260z and 280z IMSA style race adjustable outer tie rods '70s Spirit: The Imsa 240z | Speedhunters

Colder could be for higher compression to reduce knock/pre-detonation

On dyno sheet, B7ES is a colder plug than stock BPR6ES.

Nice hobby Guy... you are the patron saint of Z's in giving so many new life