240260280z

On a 240z I restored. this happened a few times. The wire to the switch would detach at the solder joint. I ended up taking apart the switch cleaning and maybe flipping the contact slider to fresh contacts. I also wicked away all of the old solder, freshened up the solder point then re-soldered.

https://sites.google.com/site/zlalomz/imsagtuz http://www.datsunhistory.com/Racehistory1.html http://bringatrailer.com/2008/12/16/authentic-bob-sharp-75-datsun-imsa-gtu-z-car/ http://www.zcarblog.com/2012/10/29/performance/19900.html

Maybe put the car on jack stands w/o the wheels and take some measurements to the floor. This will tell if it is the body or suspension that is causing the tilt. btw I know both you and John.. and you are both good guys so no worries about the rough introduction above John is one of the world experts on Z suspensions and set up so despite his spartan reply I'm sure he can offer some great advice or you can find it in the archives. I can drop by on the weekend to have a look.

if you are bored: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/31737-1970-series-i-240z-unique-parts/

yes. early z's have different parts.

Ask Pierce where their jets come from. I just bought a Wahl clipper which I thought was made in USA. DOA and made in China in the fine print... I should read my signature more often and look closer. Fake crap is every where... even fake dcoe's.

Try to inspect the BW wire where it enters the harness and where it comes out. Could be a rodent chewed through it or corrosion or maybe just melted in the steering column. Check continuity and resistance of of the suspect wire from the IGN Sw. to the ballast.. An easy way is to pull the Battery positive then measure the resistance between the new red wire and the BW wire at the IgN. SW. Also check to see if +12V is at pin 2 of the IGN. SW when in Run.

prices very low here http://www.ebay.com/itm/6x-EMULSION-TUBE-F2-F7-F9-F11-F14-F16-for-WEBER-DCOE-IDF-IDA-/291371611039?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43d719f39f&vxp=mtr not sure of quality

I have a lathe Turning jets and E tubes probably by late spring for geek fun.

Well you took a bullet for all of us. Thanks for that. If you ever need parts let me know, we have a few 280z's out to pasture at our barn here in eastern Canada.

Id bet a rocker hanging up when the cam swept off it contributed to the boom. I'd send it back to llc with a bill for labour and down time if the lash pads were too short.

I'm proud of you son For the #4, it is possible that the valve seat has been hammered upward into the head. This also causes the valve and rocker to rise up and remove all lash gap. I saw it happen on an E31 with bronze seats.

try to seal the pcv system. The filter on the catch can will mist oil all over that beautiful engine compartment. fyi car show guys put window screen in front of radiator to keep bugs and road debris out of rad and engine.

http://www.bbc.com/news/science-environment-30915266

WOW to the NOS rails!

Maybe the pertronix igniter failed

A ballast resistor is usually between 1 and 2 ohms.

As Rossiz said, the voltage to the ignition coil takes two paths: 1. Starting... with the key to start a direct path from the battery to the coil is taken to maximize spark. the voltage to teh coil is ~ 12V 2. Run...with the key in the on position, the path is now through the ballast resistor which drops the voltage applied to the coil to ~8V. the lower voltage keeps the coil cooler and increases it's life. Anothe problem in this area is the ignition switch right behind the key. Sometimes it just wears out and will work intermittently when it starts to fail. In my case it would turn the starter when I tried to start but it would not send voltage to the coil. I managed to make it work by turning the key ~ 80% of the way to full stop when starting and it seemed to get good contact on two conductors (starter and coil) when doing this. For your hands-on checks you have a few methods: 1. side of road spark check: Pull a plug wire and stick a spare plug or something conductive in it then lay this on the valve cover. Have a friend watch for spark as you crank in start then release to on. If the spark dies as soon as you release, then it is the ignition. 2. garage check: Have a friend with digital volt meter or 12V bulb measure voltage to coil positive when cranking and when the switch is ON. there should always be a voltage.

I added jan 2013 snapshot which seems less corrupt.

These may help: You may wish to buy a later 280z oil pressure sensor and connect a normally open switch. The switch would wire to 36 and 39 and close when the engine was running (usually not in a crash). You would have to keep the EFI relay to keep the functionality.

Exactly! Yes the Z Car Registry data bases were open to the public and corrupted thus the link above and the two files that contain the same info have corrupted data... however, some data is better than none thus the spirit of making this thread and improving things. It is a good starting point for some research too. For example I just saw a friends '72 car with L24 engine #005083 and I was wondering what months it would have been used in, turns out it would have been late Q1 1970 which I got from the corrupt wayback machine data.

I am not saying that. I just wanted to do the 240z's in this thread and undertake some grooming as this thread may explode with content over the years. It is better to partition from the start. I welcome you, or anyone, to do the same for 260z and for 280z and 280zx in three different threads!

The trick to using the EFI wiring for the new pump in the back is to realize the EFI system has safety interlocks to prevent the EFI pump from running when the car is off or when the car crashed (AFM switch or oil pressure switch). The EFI relay applies power towards the pump when the car is turned on through a relay. This power path is also gated by the crash safety interlock. If you want to pull the EFI harness and components but use the wiring, you will have to do a bit of routing around these two legacy items. It is not hard to do. You just need to understand these details it and cleverly integrate the wires for the new application.

If you have a stand alone fuel pump & regulator. AND you have a stand alone ignition system (like a ZX distributor set-up) then you should be ok to remove the ECU, EFI harness, ignition module and the wires to it (in a 280z harness). The 280z EFI system has interworking controls for the fuel pump so you want to make sure that the fuel pump is independent of this. Putting a mechanical pump on the front is a way to remove all of the legacy pump headaches.