240260280z

FYI I have a friend who just installed a Pertronix points conversion. It lasted ~ 30min.

I'm interested in parts if it is pre-jan71. /thx

Dead head and set fuel pressure to 3.5psi. You can then focus on the carbs and not worry about fuel.

I think Jeff Priddy owns the only set in the world. Here is what he says: Just a little history, David Webber at Malvern was working on these parts in a Nissan application in 1999. As you know David has passed away, so my only other contact was the guy that did all of the R&D on the project. I was able to get his phone number yesterday, and gave him a call. Seems his shop is no longer in business, and he was not home. I would like to get his information on the project and what the final outcome was. I am going to wait on letting the manufacturer out on this one to save the guy from getting inundated with lookieloos. This is not going to be a cheap build at this point. After all of the R&D is completed and all the NRE charges are paid we will see just what the setup can be bought for.

From a book on performance tuning: I think it initially comes from oil/carbon deposits that were never removed and eventually cooked over the years. It can initially be deposited as oil from leaking valve seals or passing the rings. I see similar when I clean the tubes in my oil fired furnace.

I'd like first refusal on the l24 if it is an early one. Vin147 needs a benefactor.

Ash from combustion.

You may consider flushing the oil bar with carb cleaner until only clear fluid leaves. Use the straw to spray into each hole as well as through the cam oil holes. Flush forward and backward and hold the bar up at 45 degrees with one end on the ground/catch pan then do the same with the other end.

I said A$$ and the forum changed it to arse.

But the same cop watches 100 people each day texting and driving.... maybe even a family member. The law is an arse.

Well something is in the air. I just picked up some 328i seats for Blue and the trip to Memphis.

Wish I was in Alabama with 5k in my pocket.... a fun drive home.

Maybe check your fuel pressure gauge? Can you block off the return fuel path (dead-head configuration) and set the fuel pressure to 3.5 psi and see what happens? This is the dead head config:

Great post! It is like a virtual museum! FYI Passini does not like the unwanted effects of balance tubes on intakes. "The small advantage a balance passage between the barrels of a DCOE carburettor might give at idling speed is more than offset by disadvantages at other times."

I am just running numbers presently. The VW 88mm 2.9L design and the Isuzu 88mm 3.0L design are alternative enhancements whose priority is to use as much of the stock components (especially HG). The 88mm allows for boring of nearly any block without worry.The VW 88mm allows for improved performance with just a piston swap and some machining.The use of stock rods in the Isuzu Stroker saves having to hunt L24 9mm rods.The VW and Isuzu pistons are not expensive.The squish works well with stock HG and P90/79 headsNo need for expensive HG's from Japan The only extra work is rod small end enlargement to accommodate 22mm wrist pins. They can be pressed or floating. Offset boring the small end helps to lower VW piston deck height to allow for a 1mm offset grind of the crank for more stroke. Of course the 3.0litre requires the LD-28 crank. Offset grinding the crank with the Isuzu piston gives 3.07 litres @ 9.86CR and still keeps a great squish if the small end bore is offset south 0.5mm I plan to build the VW version this year. I also have the kit to do a traditional KA-24/L24Rod/LD-28 stroker. The isuzu will happen if I ever come across another LD-28 crank.

I can only find cast but I did not dig much.

There is a Vulcan amongst us!

Just reviewing the thread: I just looked at the vids for the first time. nice stuff I see throat #3 spit 12 seconds into the first video when the rpms rise. Is this the throat that had the main jet separate (mentioned above)? Also, the return line connected between carbs 2 & 3 could be causing the different fuel levels in carb 3. Try to get a "T" on carb 3 and pull the return after that one. In the interim, you could try closing the return at the T between 2 and 3 so that there is no return to teh tank. If your fuel pressure is ~ 3psi you should be fine for testing. You should also spray starter fluid around all of the carb to manifold spacers to make sure no leaks are present.

Too much fuel consumption and dark plugs are caused by: jets too large fuel level too high fuel pressure too high Seems like we have been here earlier. Start from the basics again.

Piston Mfgr: Silvolite L4-119 Application: Isuzu 82-85 G200Z (Chev S15 LR-1) Flat Piston 88mm (87+1mm over) 22mm Wrist Pin 36.52mm Compression height Will work nicely (great squish) with stock L28 rod, LD28 crank, and stock Felpro HG. Gives 3.03 litre @ 9.75CR

Glad to help. We are SK brothers! I think it is key to get the cruise first then work out the WOT and idle. For cruise, the progression holes and top of the emulsion tube are the active parts. Fuel level changes will affect these for "tuning". It will be good to rule out the accelerator just in case.

The fuel outlets at the bottom of the fuel bowl that feed the accelerator circuit. You have to go fishing to get them our. Just replace with bolts and the accelerator circuit is taken out of the picture.

Glad the air hole exploration helped a bit in understanding the interactions. I have a theory that small chokes (thick) come in proximity of the partially opened throttle valve causing a venturi effect in that region (also where the accelerator pump sticks out) and pull fuel from the accelerator circuit. You may wish to close the 3 spill jets with bolts to see if the cruise will be tamed. You could also try lowering the fuel level to lower the rich cruise then address the jets.