240260280z

Found this pile of pics: https://www.google.ca/search?q=cf-l+site:sato1511.blog40.fc2.com&num=100&newwindow=1&espv=210&es_sm=122&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=Vg-mUsL-Fq6gsQSd_IG4Bw&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAQ&biw=1137&bih=527&dpr=0.9 Still trying to figure out how he did it and the details of the required machining and custom parts.

Thanks Alan!

Thanks! The coolant ports around the domes look a bit "toyota" I found this pic which looks more "nissan"

I can't decipher this one? B110TS???,KP61,240ZG,BMW?????(?)?240ZG?CF-L??????? Did he make a new head or is it some Toyota engine... sort of looks like an S30 block underneath but a different timing cover

I like the DIY homemade speedo adapter s30z?????????????????Staff????????So-net???

VIN 147 tucked away for the winter in the z barn

I have this but never used ii yet plastidip and tape in one

wire a second the coil to the seat

I used to loosen the quick releases on my racing bike when going in a store.....maybe take the lug nuts off a wheel,,,, the car may go 10 feet before it drops like an anchor. A bike lock through a wheel can also jam a get away.

More info for this thread: From Gab Ringuette, a club member who owned VIN48 Thought I'd join in. While restoring #48, I actually met an ex Nissan (Datsun) plant worker who moved to Canada years ago and was living in Victoria at the time. He was on the floor in the early seventies and confirmed the stories on how cars that were noted to have a defect would get pushed aside for rectification at a later date. There were no sophisticated tracking system in place to later find out what happened to a certain car either. The late sixties/early seventies were extremely hectic as he recalled and said the priority was getting cars out the door to the waiting masses in NA. I believe mine was almost completely assembled when it was put aside for a few months as it has all the early features of a '69 car as well as a block number that puts it in line with the other cars produced in late Oct early Nov. Another club member from out West also had an anomaly model with VIN #300 and a production date of 02/70, go figure!

Water in hose Manometer is best. Your physical senses are surprisingly precise too. I have used my fingers to "feel" the air flow to balance then check with a flow meter as well as the "sound" of the air flow. It was pretty close. I made a digital manometer for a flow bench using this: USB Experiment Interface Board | Velleman Kit K8055N | Quasar and a Motorola pressure sensor MPX4100a http://linuxfocus.berlios.de/common/src/article284/MPX4100A.pdf You can probably just use a voltmeter, +5V supply, a piece of pipe and the mpx4100a to make a tool

The fuel flow (right to left through 3 carbs in parallel) , turbo distributor? and the fixture in front of the thermostat are interesting as well.

I think if the car rode over an obstacle the first impact (after the radiator lower bulkhead) would be with the front pieces stuck out of the crossmember that hold the steering rack. If these protrusions were bent up, that bracket would prevent the rack from rotating and jamming the U joints in the steering column.

Mine is a feb 77 so march seems reasonable

My Q1 1977 has an oil bar in the N-47 head.

AutoTraderClassics.com - Article King of the RAC - Datsun 240Z rally car restoration

Probably to maintain some steering after the first impact of a multi-impact excursion.

Yes, I think the economy override is a feature that should be on all programmable EFI systems. Making use of the speed flexibility of software reconfiguration is what software programmers seem to lack these days. For example why the hell can't Microsoft just make a kernel and maintain the GUI's as a separate modules so that when you buy windows 8 you can choose the GUI you are comfortable with and quick with? Seems like the power of software has been abandoned. Your hardware with the ability to flip between a few maps would be great and fairly unique however it should have been standard for years. I would do tables like this: 1. lean cruise with rich power (hybrid1 12.5 and 16.5) 2. shoich cruise with rich power (hybrid2 12.5 and 14.7) 3. rich all around (power1 with target ~ 12.5) 4 rich all around (power2 with target ~ 13.5) 5. Stoich (target ~ 14.7) 6. lean all around (distance1 with target ~15.5) 7. lean all around (distance2 with target ~ 16.5)

btw having the engine set up for two fuel modes: Economy and Power (with an optional USB switch would be a nice feature). One target would be 12.5 and another would be 15 to 16

I'll be glad to help. Get the device working, debugged and optimized with the Datsun crowd then make money off the Porsche guys.

Hey Len, If you have data tables that you want reduced to 2nd or 3rd order polynomial equations. I can do the curve fitting and reductions if it helps.

For breaking up the white, so far I'm set on putting series 1 vents with red fill in the circles as well as red centres on the hubs. Still thinking about red mesh on the BBS RS wheels to give a bit more colour. This would be sort of a compromise for red cherry blossom wheels. I'm thinking that removing the side marker lights will make it look nicer with less break-up of the sides. Here is the only coloured light buckets I could find to date, makes me think no for the red in the bucket:

forged crank is very expensive along with the machine work for the above build if you want a low cost way to power up a daily driver, just get an L28ET turbo from a 280zx and turn up the boost. Add an intercooler and you are good to ~ 10psi of boost.

I tried photo-shopping. A light blue or grey seemed nice but I'd like to see a real example. The grey sort of looked like tinted plastic. I also thought doing the panel between the hood and bumper would be nice in red but it did not look nice photo-shopped