240260280z

I think you had :cheeky:

Datsun - Photo Gallery - Racing Sports Cars

The tank to evaporator hoses and filler pipe circulate the gas from liquid to vapour to liquid. I thinks the four hoses are for drain back and for collection at the highest locations. The three pickups on the tank seem to prevent trapped pockets of gas vapour The tank to engine compartment line is the only opening in the system where fresh air can be drawn back to the tank to replace the fuel that is consumed when running. The fresh air is drawn through the carb's air filter box. When the car is stopped and off, the line to the engine compartment also sends fuel vapours to be be stored in the crank case (when heat causes the fuel tank pressure to increase) The flow guide valve either sends tank fumes to the crank case or fresh air to the tank.

The steel line runs in parallel with the fuel send and return steel lines. It runs from the front of the differential area to the driver wheel well area in the engine compartment.

Rising ball in unisyn is not the technique for balancing. Here is how to do it: 1. Get motor hot. 2. Set idle to what you want (say 800 rpm) 3. Briefly stick the unisyn up to one carb mouth (with air box off) 4. Note where the ball (red plug) is. 5. Adjust the opening in the unisyn (knurled knob) 6. Repeat steps 3 to 6 until you get the ball near or above the middle (I like to have the red plug so the top aligns with a line in the clear tube,,,(see photo below where person has the bottom of the plug aligned). 7. Now move to the other carb with the unisyn and check the air flow. 8. Adjust the idle stop (air) into the second carb so the ball level matches the same level as carb 1. Tips: - Hand blip the throttle often and let the car settle before making a measurement. - start with jets down 2.5 turns from top most position. - start testing the idle air flow first. To do this disconnect the centre/short ball and socket link/rod of the linkage so that each carb is only resting on its idle stop screw. - before starting the procedure, adjust idle stop screws one at a time so that they visually just kiss (start to touch and move) the throttle valve, then give each 2 full turns as a starting point. - once the idle is balanced, reattach the linkage then turn the screw with spring that is up high on the linkage so that it opens both throttles to ~ 3000 rpm then adjust the unisyn to measure the higher airflow (knurled knob). Measure the front carb then match the rear by adjusting the off-idle balancing screw that is in the bar linking the carbs at the throttle body. - Once the idle and 3000 rpm air flows are balanced, have a look at the plugs then adjust the jet height to get good colour in each side (1,2,3 are coloured by front carb and 4,5,6 by rear). after adjusting jet, repeat steps 3 to this one,

Another great Arne thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/exhaust-s30/34920-review-whats-gone-period-240z-exhausts.html

Jim you listening to Neil Young again? Get some sleep!

Here is the DIY fab page: L????????KII86FACTORY? ?????2012.08.08-12:50??Blog????????L???????240Z??Minkara - The Car & Automobile SNS (Blog - Parts - Maintenance - Mileage)

The line runs from the tank area to the flow device just below ballast resistor in this picture. 72 FSM excerpts below (Emission chapter)

Ignition component can't take the heat and weak spark? The thermostats are controlled by fluid heat, not ambient air temperature as far as I know. (i.e. the rad can scald you at the beach or at the ski slope...that thar's boil'n wadder sonny)

I would just stick an RB motor in and fab a custom retro valve cover to get the same effect.

It kills our cars here. If you are in sight of the ocean on a windy day you can see the salt spray dry on your car. The fog also is salty and bathes the car and every crevice with salt. They also salt the roads here but the ocean moderates the temperature so that it is usually above freezing in the day and below freezing at night. This results in the ice melting in the day and the salt making a brine that makes cars white and crusted. It soaks in every crevice in the underside and rots wheel wells. At night it freezes and the water turns to black ice...fun and adventure. Welcome to Nova Scotia! It makes one a better driver as well as identify which cars rust faster (WORST Mazda, Hyundai, Subaru, Nissan, Honda , Toyota BEST) Cars are now made better at not-rusting. All cars used to have visible rust after 5 -6 years in the 90's, now they go 8-10 years. Seam sealing has helped a lot. Nissan had problems with steel and aluminum subframes (electrolysis) . the funniest are steel and aluminum tire pressure sensors and caps that corrode... a tire valve cap causes a few hundred dollars to replace a pressure sensor.

You can put your knuckles in the throat to "feel" the air flow between your fingers. Place your hand (just use the same one) and knuckles in the same location with the same finger spacing on each carb, you can balance fairly close. btw you need to balance at two points: 1. At idle using the throttle valve stops 2. At ~ 3000 rpm using the linkage balance adjuster (if this is not balanced one carb will do all the work. )

I just saw a Japanese Z website where they fabbed their own.

Nice DATSUN welding shirt!

back fire from the tail pipe is a sign of being rich What do the plugs look like. If you can post a picture that would help. It could also be ignition. What ignition system are you running? What is your timing set to?

The Z's are notorious for low oil pressure on the gauge. I can't recall if I saw pressure when cranking. I think if you crank it for a few min off-and-on; the needle should move a little from the peg but not much. It sounds like you have some oil pressure and a functioning pump if you see the cams getting oil. I think you are good for go. Just look in the oil cap area to see a good flow/flicking of oil from the lobe after you start it. btw don't forget to add the zinc additive for break in, that seems like the "hungry for a cam lobe" period. Good luck and congrats! Watch that water temp, fuel mix and keep rpms up!

Electrical timing (spindle, pump, and distributor) is independent of mechanical timing (crank and cam). The way to set up an engine is to put it at TDC then ensure that the cam marks are where you want them (positions 1,2,3). Once the crank and cam are happily sychronized, you have to get the spark to ignite the mixture at the right time. To do this on a Z you again put cylinder 1 at TDC then adjust the spindle to 11:30. Once this is done then the distributor plugs should be 153624 CCW from the #1 post on the distributor cap. Now the distributor and plugs are nearly synchornized. The final step is to start the car, use a timing light and rotate the distributor so that at idle the spark on #1 plug occurs between 8degerees and 20 degrees depending on the motor, emissions, and modifications. IF THE DISTRIBUTOR CAN NOT BE ROTATED ENOUGH CW (advance) OR CCW (retard) THEN YOU HAVE 3 OPTIONS: 1. Flip the distributor over and try to get extra rotation by adjusting the nulling plate (8mm bolt) 2. Find a new distributor mount that clocks the distributor in the required direction 3. Move the spindle a tooth or two 4. Offset-Rotate plugs on distributor along with any of the above

Finally a leader with guts: GM recall probe prompts executive departures - Jun. 5, 2014

Nice. There are brush on liquid tape products too. They may be good for touch ups or when you don't want to spray: https://www.google.ca/search?q=liquid+tape&espv=2&es_sm=122&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=flKQU7HzD8Pf8gGH-oD4Bg&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAQ&biw=1137&bih=570&sei=5lKQU_WGE8Tc8AGR14GwDw&gbv=2 3M even make one.

Lots of variety here: center+cap - JEGS High Performance

rat rod again datsun 280z

I saw this one when in Wa. Nice owner. Lots of potential 1978 datsun 280z flared Rust free