240260280z

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/misc-s30/43793-lubricating-refreshing-cables.html

for sound deadening you can do the tap test to hear what vibrates. Another way would be to mount a speaker on a location then use a software tool to do a frequency sweep. You should hear the points were resonance occurs (excitation of the metal). The speaker's magnets and steel car shell make this easy to do but a super magnet may also help couple the speaker to the metal. If you use a magnetic parts bowl to couple the speaker, remove the rubber base as you do not want isolation of the speaker from the body.

Looks like more here: IMCDb.org: "Full Throttle, 2004-2005": cars, bikes, trucks and other vehicles

BBC - Autos - Meet the sport-utility vessel

Thanks guys. I like the drilling idea.... another tool for the upcoming battle. I'll keep you all posted. btw I just tried the Evaporust on a relic and it worked great. I am about to pick up a dishwasher and recirculate evaporust through it like a parts washer but it will be more of a wetter/heater for big objects that can't be soaked.

Thanks CO It is a 2004 RAV but Toyota enjoys torturing us all with this design and lack of factory antiseize. It is like a Toyota engineer saw the spindle pin problem from 1970 and said lets do this in 6 places on every model after at least 1996. (front and rear camber and rear toe and both my ravs are this design/lack there-of). So far, with patience, I have the centre locking bolt out as well as the eccentric nut/washer part. I have a slide hammer so I was considering running a shaft through the eccentric tube and pull-hammering with a nut and washer applying the force where the eccentric nut had been. I was also considering making a puller to draw the eccentric out but there is not much to use for a base for the puller plus it has to clear the eccentric. A come-along on a distant tree may be another possibility but it may just slowly bend the sheet metal mount for the control arm. Using a breaker bar on the eccentric bolt may be something else to try but with the frozen eccentric still in the captive sides, I don't think it is a good idea at this stage. I'm wondering if there is another trick or when to try the heat. For heat I am thinking that propane on the eccentric face/hole followed by a garden hose of water shooting through it may draw the heat out of it fast enough to contract and break the bond? I am guessing that a lot of water will pull more heat more rapidly than spraying canned freeze?

OK it is a toyota. The rear camber adjustments are eccentric's that go through the control arm bushings. These things are like the wonderful spindle pins in that two cylindrical surfaces corrode due to water. The difference is that the hollow eccentric tube fits in a slightly larger tube that is moulded to the bushing (see cut up lca end bushings and eccentric tube that I found on line). Any ideas on how to separate? I will build a puller and spray with penetrating oil but I am thinking that controlled heating then cooling of the eccentric may help break the bond between the surfaces?

I'll ask for pics.

A friend in Toronto got it Thanks for the heads up.

Jim, That last sentence seems like you(Jim) are an organic O2 sensor How about this variation: Maybe a straw from the tail pipe to a nostril and a motorized fuel height screw controlled by the choke lever (for adding fuel when you need it w/o the jet swap).

Nice first Z.

I installed ~5 with no problems.

geeks unite

I think some of you Texans are cornering the Silver Z market.

Join this local club: Ontario Z-Car Owners Association

Using grommets for shock & vibration isolation helps with the rad welds/brazing too.

Kats, that is the famous cobbled Paris-Roubaix road that is used to destroy cyclists I was impressed to see Nissan using similar to test. ?????? - Wikipedia

It's difficult to get at the rears to re-pack. Bicycles have passages in the hubs for forcing in new grease that pushes out the old. I bet this could be done with the rear hubs but the volume of grease in the central cavity is very large. This would have to be filled first in order to use the bike hub method.

clean the throttle valve switch then dry it. Also check temp sensor connections.

Oil only dampens piston vibration and controls movement of piston during acceleration and deceleration. Thicker oil enriches acceleration and leans deceleration. Thinner oil leans acceleration and enriches deceleration. Spring and weight (added to piston) affect height of piston at each RPM. More weight or stronger springs keep piston lower than norm at an rpm. This restricts air flow but causes more depression and draws more fuel however the annular puddle of fuel around the needle is also reduced with lower piston height so the extra fuel added by the depression is not linear. Simply lowering the jet or shaping the needle may accomplish adding more fuel w/o the restriction of doing it with a heavier spring or heavier piston. One wants the piston to rise to maximum height to minimize its airflow restriction but I'm not sure if it should be at max torque or max hp. (I would guess at the max torque point). Once the piston maxs out, all rpms above will draw more fuel as the depression increases in magnitude (more suction on the annular fuel puddle). I'd like to map this stuff someday. Cptn. Obvious and I had planned to do this but I moved from his neighbourhood too early. A few months with an engine dyno would allow for making math models for these adjustable parameters.

clarification: Tomo means inner vinyl door panels

Some experiments here: Removing Paint from Vinyl - F150online Forums

Never saw this one before:

fouled plugs and still running rich? Check your electrical connections and clean... it can hurt nothing: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html