240260280z

Excellent maintenance work and test plan. The pistons are supposed to be matched in "drop times" so cleaning the walls and rim and also alignment when tightening the dome screws are very important for proper piston excursion. Hopefully this (alignment correction) will fix your problem.

-12 Wind Chill and dark. Replaced a fuel pump and replaced all fuel lines in the fuel rail and to the injectors on a '76. Used a hair dryer to soften the rubber due to the cold. Purred like a kitten. Shame about the hot pink colour and smell of 12 dead mice inside.

Dang you are full of great ideas! Nice one! ...and so simple.

My friend and I can sort you out. One of our club members is selling his baby. I am checking to see if it is sold. Pics here: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/members/gregbeazley/index.html If not we can probably find you something similar. This one was also for sale and my still be available: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/members/rickgiffin/index.html

Excellent! So much better than I imagined. Even the cool red paint on the cut-away block detail. I am very impressed. Big pat on the back.

I got ripped off for an $800 synth I sent to Israel in the 90's. I had a friend go to the address and "tell" the guy I was not happy. It sorted itself out. The seller lists Redding, California, United States as his address.

The Mayans died off long ago and missed that one so I will bet $1,000,000 the world will not end...and I if I lose I won't be here to pay anyway.

Not on my beater, it is stock, but I will on my new install. As John said it keeps the intake cleaner. btw the hose to the top of the valve cover has a spark-arrester inside for safety.

John was referring to the slurry that comes out of the crankcase vent. The PVC system on a stock Z has a single stage collection element and this system is supposed to circulate just vapors for re-burning however; it seems the system does not do it well. The vapor/liquid separator stage is just a baffle and wad of mesh gauze inside the crank case below the vent hole. The mesh is supposed to trap the liquids but it seems that some pass through and cause the slurry (i.e. water vapor from condensation inside the motor when the engine is cold and also volatile gases from the combustion process). John is recommending that a second stage "catch can" should be added to capture the elusive liquids that pass through the mesh gauze and also to catch any vapors that condenses due to the temperature drop experienced outside of the crank case.

Today is Dec.23...officially Festivus. Let the games begin! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Festivus

The politically correct "Happy Holidays" is actually Happy Holy Days so it is very religious...makes me smile when I hear it. I have read that the Christmas Tree and Dec 25 date are somewhat based on pagan druids respecting nature and also the change from shortest days of the year to longest (above equator).... so this time covers Christmas, Hanukkah, KWANZAA , Paganism, sometimes Ramadan (plus Muslims respect Jesus and Mary so Christmas is somewhat applicable).... the Agnostics are not sure and it gives Atheists something not to believe in so HAPPY HOLYDAYS! oh yeah... Happy Festivus too.

Thanks! That is unfortunately correct.

Maybe drive over some ice to see if they become more visible? http://youtu.be/_iCeI0bKbwg

I spend winters in Nova Scotia and NJ. The salt and winter salt-laiden-water on roads is ~ 3/10 (my estimate) in NJ compared to 10/10 here in Nova Scotia. Maine is in between I would guess. Here is my Rav on a good winter day with just a light coating of salt. I live ~10km from the ocean... the poor b@stards who live in the water can hear their cars rust. WHERE DID THE ATTACH PIC TOOL GO?

Ziebart is messy and traps water underneath here near the North Atlantic Ocean. The oily waxy stuff is the way to go. I checked the rustcheck site and it mentions Kmart in the USA. You may be able to buy the cans and spray yourself. ~$10/can here.

Is it possible that your jets are at different depths? Try removing choke cable connections and manually verify that each jet rises and drops without binding when you activate the choke attachment on the carb by hand. This mechanism should move freely. You can also pull the domes and measure the jet depth with a caliper's depth gauge attachment. Set both by tweaking the knurled knob to the same depth by measurement at your specified number of turns down (i.e. Set one to X number of turns, measure the depth then set the other jet to the same depth using the caliper. (I assume your needles are set correctly so that the needle's shoulder is flush with the bottom of the piston...not flush with the base of the channel it sits in).

There is some resistance. I can't recall exactly what it is but I will dig out an AFM in my basement and measure today...oh I just looked at my files and measured it long ago. I'll check again to verify.

I watch the oil flow on every used Z I refresh to ensure no clogs. At idle is more of a dribble/weak flow but at higher RPM I assume it is a fairly pressurized stream (As it has been mentioned that oil pressure varies from 10psi to 90psi from idle to high rpm). I would guess that for the street where idling occurs a lot, having the close oiling would be required to ensure oiling of the cam lobes when the car sits and idles for up to an hour, however for a race car which is usually at higher rpms and with higher pressure/volume oiling system, the distance from the oil bar may not be critical.

Exactly what Mr Obvious and I speculated. Colortune seems to be more of a novelty item or a crutch for someone who can't set jet depth to spec and tweak via plug reading. As you mentioned above; reading the timing empirically with the correct tool made a difference. Likewise tuning with a O2 or similar gas analyzer will also take the magic out of tuning and give you real and useful data. btw Someone should make a clip-on knock sensor and that would be fabulous to finish the tuning tool list...dang I wish I could patent my ideas.... can you imagine a knock-tune plug ™ from Blue Industries (also specializing in films from Europe)! It would be a plug with a built in knock sensor (or a clip on to a plug) and a lead to an led array where 4/6/8 plugs can be viewed while tuning.

prolly

Hmmm you might take it to Canada. It is ~ $100 here. I just called called a shop close to you in Manchester,NH and they quoted $375 http://maps.google.ca/maps?hl=en&rlz=&um=1&ie=UTF-8&q=undercoating+maine&fb=1&gl=ca&hq=undercoating&hnear=0x4cb01dde1d538ad5:0xd679cc6f6720a8d0,Maine,+USA&ei=KgHxTsaiFOX00gHDscm-Ag&sa=X&oi=local_group&ct=image&ved=0CB4QtgM

I think they are simply UNclear on NUclear.

Recommended for all the Canucks: $11 http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6/Tools/PowerToolAccessories/DrillBitsSetsAccessories/PRD~0543650P/Mastercraft+100-piece+HSS+Drill+Bit+Set.jsp?locale=en

Biggest battery you can fit with highest cranking amp rating will help.

I am an optimist in that what we have is perfectly good...it just needs to be slightly re-formed and "optimized" and unified. The English language certainly can use an overhaul to become more efficient and compact. Contractions such as "you are" becoming "you're" becoming "u r" is somewhat evolutionary but the rules are still chaotic and need to be set and adhered to. I am also in favour of 1 global currency and a flat income tax based on the total of the previous years spending divided by the sum of all salaries and revenue....but hey I am from another time.