240260280z

Looks great Dan! But can it fit in your luggage?

I talked to a mini owner friend who recalled the first shipment of 240z's arriving in Nova Scotia in 1970. All of the car enthusiasts went to the unloading/storage location at the port or railway and were looking in the windows ohhing and awing over the triple gauges on the dash and such. A friend's dad was a Datsun dealer from the other side of the province. All of the dealers were brought over to meet the shipment and were given commemorative off-white Z-car hotwheels or similar. My friend had the one given to his dad but that was many moons ago and it is long gone.

What I read in the 77 FSM or 82 FSM for L28 was off idle ~1400rpm and that the WOT contact should be in ~ 3/4 of the way to the floor with the pedal however you can not set the idle and WOT spread w/o bending the contact vanes. Maybe your AFM needs to be set for a bit more fuel?

First 200mi ~ 13mpg, next 160mi ~26mpg.. same jets...idle enrichment, throttle plate position progression holes have very interesting interplay I hope to start investigating soon. btw the 3000rpm with mains removed was when pig-rich 13mpg setting.

Join the local z club and connect with "local suppliers". Club members will give you stuff or point you to someone who has it. It makes life easier. If there is no club, start one.

Post some photos. What are the floors like? What does it look like inside the front wheel wells where the engine frame rails turn down by the gas pedal?

I am glad the TVS was found to be the problem. You can get the same connector from a junkyard audio with Bosch EFI and cut it ~ 1' back then splice it into the Z harness. Keep cutting back until you get good shiny copper then twist, solder and waterproof. For running rich there are two common problems. The first is the water temperature sensor connector and the pig tails that connect to the main harness ~ 1' back from the water temp sensor. This runs from the thermostat to ~ the side of the throttle valve. The second problem that causes richness is when the PO or aging loosens/weakens the AFM spring. Here are some useful links: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html

Excellent exploratory work! I am happy for you. I get to see my 71 resto tomorrow and play. Philip

Yes! That makes these things pop when you open the hood.

http://dsc.discovery.com/cars-bikes/worlds-fastest-electric-car-is-a-72-datsun-does-0-60-in-1-8-seconds.html

Yes. There is also one you will really enjoy: http://www.amazon.com/Modify-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1555612377

It is easier to install and remove with transmission and engine together. If it is already separated then you do not need the leveller to lift out the engine.

grey poupon

Shouldn't that be -35mm?

The Throttle Valve Switch (TVS) output can cause the ECU to limit revs. Usually it is limited to ~ 2800 rpms but your tach could be off or the TVS could be clocked a little higher. Disconnect the TVS connector and see if you pass the wall. btw the TVS is the small black box on the side of the throttle valve. I have a feeling the contacts are sticking at idle:

Suggestions: Get an engine lift with tilter. If it is a two ton lift, use the last 1/2 ton pin on the lift to maximize reach. Remove the hood and radiator Jack up the rear of the car at the differential to tilt it.

Yeah it was strange. It is a 4 speed, I cant recall if I was in 4th or still in 3rd but I was surprised to see the high rpms. I'll do some empirical runs with lots of data hopefully on Saturday.

Rinse with a kettle of boiling water... it will dry very quickly.

Hmmmm for the idle jet, I have 55F11 and they seem rich on the 240z with cam. I get the car back in a couple of days and can investigate more. I probably do not have the balance between exposed progression holes and idle enrichment set correctly as I could drive around with no mains installed up to ~ 3000rpm... that must be rich indeed...maybe they were drilled. Anyway, the books and the net say this for relative idle jet air orifice size: Rich - F6 F12 F9 F8 F11 F13 F2 F4 F5 F7 Fl F3 - Lean. Does anyone have a table of absolute hole sizes and number of holes for the air inlets for the above parts? I think it is time to raise the bar from symbols to real numbers. Assigning a cross sectional effective hole size to each symbol would be a first step. Thanks!

Most sandwich rubber grommets between the rad and the rad support cross members. Here is a thread on the subject: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread39777.html

I did some checks on this site a few weeks ago and have a Champion 2 row on the way as I am using a mechanical fan. Be sure to shock mount the new rad. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/2-Row-Champion-Aluminum-Radiator-1970-1975-Nissan-Z-Series-240z-260z-/120897073511

Sherlock Holmes are you!!!!