madkaw

Geezer, thanks for the referall to that thread but it wasn't quite what i hoped for. It doesn't help me decide which one to install since there is no test cold. I thought maybe while the clutch is cold ,I could test it to see if it would turn with more resistance or turn easier or something like that kind of test before I install. I guess I put one in a drive and see how it does. Maybe I'll check the service manual, maybe it will have some wisdom.

Well it took a lunch break to figure this out:stupid: The pulley wasn't sitting flush on the water pump so i lost what little clearnace I had because it was rotating **** eyed. Thanks for the info Arne. Is there an easy way to tell if the old clutch is still good? Does it need to have just a little or a moderate amount of resistance when you turn it. I have two,but one seems to have a bit more resistance.

I am trying to swap out the original metal fan for a plastic one on my 71. I have several different clutches from cars that had plastic fans. My problem is that i am not clearing the third row pulley for the AC. The plastic fan needs to have another 1/4" clearance to clear the pulley. Seems that the height on all the clutches are the same -are they supposed to be? Or is the clutch for the plastic fan noticably taller or is there a spacer involved? Any help would be great.

I saw the motorsport panel. Please take notice the metal thickness-16 guage-that is a stout panel. I imagine the original was about 20 guage at best. I just hope to find an original that i can cut off someones car!

Can anyone verify (or not) that the rear valence on a 240z is the same as the 280z. I need to replace mine and I need to know how big my shoppping list can be. I thought the hls-30 were all the same?

Well to continue my saga I installed my pertronix(coil and igniter) today and the car ran fantastic -all the way to 3000rpm-then just goes flat. I really didn't think ignition was the problem , but it was nice to eliminate that from the equation. I will have to say that the car idles better and smoother now and I still need to install the new wires. The next thing for me will be the fuel pump. I have been suspect of a pump that has sat for 10 plus years without running. I don't have a pressure guage but I do have an extra pump to try. I would almost bet that diaphram has a coulpe of holes or cracks in it. I also have changed the fuel filter which DID have dirt in it. I also blew compressed air thru the fuel lines and drained the tank again. Yes there was some junk in the tank but not significant enough to think it was clogging the pick-up. Maybe next week I can throw the fuel pump on-I Do have AC so this won't be a fun job.

Guys, All good suggestions, but unfortunetly i am stuck in a motel 200 miles from my car. I have tried some of these ideas ,but didn't get to finish before the phone rang and I had to go. I tried moving the points open for a static check but I didn't see any spark. The condenser is hooked up. I was concerned that i got the ground from the points to the right place. I appreciate the responses and thought i should reply to let you know that this wouldn't be another dead end thread. I am also currently waiting for a pertronix kit in the mail. Maybe by this weekend I can do some more trouble shooting-damn job always getting in the way of my fun!

Gnose, thanks, sounds like a good idea!

Arne, I believe I checked for that but I am going to double check to make sure on that insulator cap. Everything else looked okay??

Anyone know where I could get replacement ends for the wires that hook on to the fuel sending unit. They will not hold properly and I have looked around for those type ends without much luck.

While you guys are arguing which is better, maybe one of you could take the time to respond to my thread about points:)

I took my distributor apart to make sure my mechanical advance was not rusted up. I am not getting spark now and I am thinking I don't have my points grounded properly. Anyone want to help me out here. I knew I should have used this camera BEFORE I took the dizzy apart. I think I have it right but could use some verification.

Warren, I haven't had time to mess with it over the holidays. I will be considering both yours and Mat M's approach. I don't doubt there can still be a dirt issue with this car even though I thought I had fixed this. I also can't wait to update the ignition(pertronixs on order), to elimimate any possible ignition issues. I plan on removing the sending unit and inspecting it closely and then blowing air thru the supply lines. I think I will also inspect the "new" filter to see how it looks. The car still has points, wires with unknown history, autolite plugs-ordered NGKs, and original coil. So I still have things to eliminate in this process. I appreciate you updating us Warren and congrats on your success.

Gary, In my case I did set up carbs according to the z therapy video and it ran great the first time. But now my car is acting like Warrens z and like it has a rev limiter. These fuel pumps spew gas when the diaphram goes bad don't they? 7727, I drove it the first time with the old suspension-which was scary. Any how, I probably won't have time to mess with it until after the holidays so meanwhile i will watch your progress Warren.

I have the same scenerio going on right now. I finally drove a clients car(240) after redoing the whole suspension. Before I tore it down i had done a quick tune-up on a engine that hadn't run in over 10 years. The engine ran strong after putting the rockers back on the valves(another story). I drove it around and it seemed to want to go over 3000rpm but the suspension was scary so I didn't push the issue. Now I have everything back together I want to drive it a little faster but it doesn't want to rev over 3000. I did take the tank out and cleaned it thoroughly when I first got the car. I did notice the SECOND time I took the tank out, when I was doing the suspension , I drained it I found some more crap in the fuel. I couldn't believe there was dirt in the tank because I really cleaned WELL the the first time. Where I'm going with this rambling is that I still might have a dirt issue that is causing a obstruction. I took apart the distributor to see if the mechanical advance was not working and it seems alright. This car still has points but i have convinced the owner to buy pertronix and i am awaiting the delivery of the goods. I want to eliminate the ign ition issues-if any- before looking elsewhere. I will also pull the sender to look at the pick-up to see if anything is clogged. I had a similiar issue with a Kawasaki years ago where it didn't rev over 5k. I never figured it out until just beforte i sold it and it was the mechanical advance. I also wonder about a fuel pump that has sat around dry for years. Is the diaphram cracked or worn that it will not supply ample pressure??

I had intended on putting the car on blocks to torque the bolts and try and find a couple of buddies to sit in the car. My book shows two different torques for the front and rear inner bolts on the rear controls arms- can someone verify the torque values for me? Gary, I figured it was a preload issue but thanks for the verification.

Looking for any suggestions to torque down my suspension after installing new urethane bushings all around. I have read that the control arms need to have the weight of the car and passengers before actally torquing them down, is this true and why? Also, my references seem to be a little confusing when it comes to the torque numbers for each bushing, any good threads for this? My book says the rear control arm- forward inner bushings should be torqued to 100lbs. I don't see how to even get a socket on that bolt to use a torque wrench, and when we are talking 100lbs, aren't we just saying really tight. Not that I take torque values lightly but it's going to be tough to get 100lbs on that bolt laying under the car.

figured it out. emergency brackets were on the wrong side of the car.

Well I am finally putting this car back together after several months and I am a little confused with the rear brakes. Please look at my pics and tell me what I am doing wrong. This is the passenger side of a 71 . I thought the rear shoe slid between the emergency brake lever and the whell cylinder but it hits against the adjuster lever. What am I doing wrong here? I wish I had a memory:stupid:

Brian, I was thinking the same thing as I pulled up your post. The paint is holding up my whole project. My engine and drivetrain is done, my suspension is all redone, I have recovered my seats and have new carpet waiting but I can't bring my self to pay around 5k for a paint job so I am doing the bodywork myself and waiting on a friend to paint it in his garage. It has my morale down too, and I just found out my daughter has been accepted to Indiana University---so you know where my money is going:disappoin I am happy to send my kid to school, but I don't see any light at the end of the tunnel for my Z. I am like you and hoping for a twist of fate or the lottery

Thanks Bo' but MSA doesn't sell individual pieces,i already called. They sell the energy suspension kits but you can't buy direct from them either:ermm:

That's my luck, someone has one and they're shippied offLOL. No offense and thankyou so much for replying quickly. I would like to find one quicker ,but I might just wait for you to get back.It's a customers car but he is not in a hurry and I just might have to learn some patience. I will keep you in mind Sailor Bob and thanks

Well a little bad luck and a little impatience cost me a urethane rear contol arm outer bushing. actually I just screwed up the metal bushing part that fits over the spindle. I know it's a long shot but i am asking if anyone has some extras laying around that will keep me from buying a whole new kit I will sure would appreciate hearing from you. Or if you know who will send me individual components please point me in the right direction. It's a MSA kit but the bushings shouls all be the same. thanks

I was afraid you guys would tell me that-damn. The first side went in so perfectly too:mad:

Well I got my spindle pin back in but with some difficulty. I didn't get the groove lined up properly and i can't get the pin to move now. How crucial is this locking bolt since the spindle pin won't move anyway? What is the worst that could happen-the spindle pin will turn in the strut assembly?