mlc240z

Weird, original link worked. This is the full copied link. http://picclick.com/VersaChem-90130-Syon-Rear-400149172460.html

This link; http://picclick.com/VersaChem-90130-...149172460.html Still showing 10 available, $2.95 shipping from Livonia, Michigan.

Told you!!! (Well not exactly you, just everyone else in the free world). ZTherapy carbs are the single best money I've ever spent on my Z. And I've dumped a bit on my mistress. I was wary of spending the money (even before the economy took a dump), but have NEVER regretted the expense. Un-frigging-believable difference in the way the car idles, runs, starts and accelerates. I never even THINK the carbs are an issue when the Z hiccups, always start diagnosing elsewhere. :stupid:Damn, now Bruce will get a swelled (even larger) head than he has now! Dave's (Zsondabrain) electrical mods are the second best money I've ever spent. You'll find out eventually.

Got it, Enrique. I love step-by-steps. Even an idiot like me can follow them.:stupid: Can always count on the Z-gurus You da man, thanks.

Thanks all. Just was looking for the 'hidden' tips you might have picked up from actually doing the job. Sounds pretty straight forward. PO had replaced at least some of the vent lines, and I only get a small whiff of gas on a full tank which goes away fairly quickly. Am pulling the tank to at least paint it, replace sending unit etc. and I normally try to refresh everything else connected while a part is off the car. I prefer to do it once, and then move on. Thanks again.

OK, guys. Need some experienced help. Bought a new filler neck for the winter tear-down. You know winter tear-down, the time when since she's off the road and you might as well do the stuff you've been putting off because you don't want to waste good driving weather (replace the antenna mast, replace the LED in the radio, add the equalizer, R/T diff mount, half-shaft U-Joints etc, etc,). Been getting a whiff of gas on a fill-up so figured this would be a good solution for a 40 yr old part. Have heard horror stories about the difficulty of replacing the neck. Plan is to drop the tank, replace the sending unit, re-plumb some of the PO's vent hoses and the filler neck. Is it that difficult to align/attach the neck while remounting the tank? Is it that tight trying to attach while balancing the tank on a floor jack or is it just a PITA I can survive? Any tips? I like easy, so anything you've got will be appreciated.

Double check your front wheel bearings to make sure they're tight.

Avoid KEM like the plague. Had many a bad experience with them, especially electrical parts. Fuel pumps, ignition modules and throttle position sensors were the 3 things I wound up replacing at least once within 6 mos of initial install. Swore off them for good after the 2nd TPS. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18413&highlight=kem

Good solution to a bad situation! Look at it like you just customized it, replace eventually if you want to. Or not, you may grow to like your unique solution better than OEM.

Had a similar issue when I replaced my slave cylinder. No amount of bleeding at the slave would return the feel at the pedal. Bled with spring in place. With mine, had to go back and re-bleed the master. When swapping the slave, must have re-introduced some air into the master. Same process you used by loosening the line at the master. Have your assistant use long slow strokes of the pedal and hold, not a quick pumping action. You can apparently agitate the bubble enough to aerate the fluid making it a pain to expel completely. Apparently the design of the master can trap a good sized air bubble. Even have seen suggestions to raise the rear of the car to pitch it forward to get the bubble in a good position to expel it. After master, went back and re-bled the slave and it took only a few pumps to get the proper feel and operation back, no more grinding shifts.

http://www.allglassparts.com/product/404939/400279# Different mfg (SYON) but another Google search lists it as SYON/VersaChem. http://picclick.com/VersaChem-90130-Syon-Rear-400149172460.html Different pricing, $21 for first $7 for second.

Yup Mitchell, I've been driving like a maniac now that the heat finally let up. This is my favorite time of the year.

http://www.autoparts2020.com/rsdev/part_detail.jsp?PART_HDR_ID=88439&cat=2,3,4,5,9 Need to call for pricing.

Hey Jim, thanks for that miata link. I've been trying to find that exact calculator for a while. Tripped over it a few years while surfing and could never find it when i needed it. I like the visual reference it gives.

Yes, I'm sure he does.

Dave, Heel! LOLLOLLOL

Pull the plugs and see if any are oil fouled. Could be a bad seal that's allowing oil to leak past on a stopped motor. When was the last time you changed the oil? If you're running rich and gas is diluting the oil, the change in viscosity could explain more of a leak past the seals.

If they are relatively new tires or you're getting a new set, make sure they speed balance them. Vibrations at different speed also indicates unbalanced tires.

Congrats, Sarah! Always knew you'd "endeavor to persevere". It's a great feeling when it finally works out, isn't it?

OK Steve, I officially hate you!LOLLOLLOL Geez, looks FANTASTIC!!! Engine and body, it's definitely in my future. Keep up what looks to be great work!

From what I've read, if you're looking for more 'performance' because of a 'better' air flow, you'll be disappointed. K&N might flow a 'little' better but the tradeoff is usually the same or worse filtering of dirt than OEM/aftermarket stock filters. The only benefit I would consider is the fact you can reuse them by cleaning and re-oiling (properly) the filters. If it will last sort of indefinitely ($50 vs $15) due to the better construction/quality/nature of the filtering material, then it's worth it.

Yes, listen to Bruce. I've heard he knows a 'little' bit about carbs. Sounds like both a stuck valve AND something causing overpressure like an over-pressured electric fuel pump or clogged return line or boiling fuel. Fuel 'pouring' out for 15-30 seconds seems a little extreme.

MSA http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SBC12

It certainly is looking good!

1979 thru 1985 RX-7. This is supposed to be one of the quietest and most reliable fuel pumps for a carb'd Z.