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About H3nrY

  • User Group: Members

  • Member ID: 20396

  • Title: Registered User

  • Content Count: 47

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  • Joined: 04/24/2010

  • Been With Us For: 4547 Days

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    Belgium - Westflanders

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  1. Hi all I am having a strange problem. I installed ba9s led´s recently, like these: http://www.hidlightsusa.com/images/X5-BA9S-SMD-5W.jpg for my clock, voltmeter etc.. they work very well. I tried to do the same for the main illumination on the speed and tach gauges, but i got nothing. Reversing the polarity also didnt help. The old bulbs work immediately. the socket seems to be the same, but the led socket length is a tad longer. the socket itself is of the spring loaded type so that shouldnt be a problem. its a tight squeeze for my body under that dash, so troubleshooting is not easy Anyone experienced this?
  2. haha, I'll gladly welcome you here ! ps. just got a quote from my welder, it would be around 1800 euros to repair, which is about 2300 dollars.
  3. I disagree. SmoothZ, I am from Belgium and bougt a 260Z 3 years ago in Holland. I finally started to do go at the body and check for rust - bodged repairs. I am by no means a mechanic, and will let the welding be done by an expert. However, I think my car has the same issues like yours. Maybe even worse... These Z's rot and rust. My welding guy said he had seen much worse, and this was worth restoring. My car must have had a right frontal impact at some point, the welding there is substantial by the previous owner. However, I do agree agree with the point that there could be better chassis out there. But here in Europe, Z'sr and especially rot free Z's are hard to find. We have to make do with what we can find. My pictures:
  4. Hey Gusbo Where do you live in Poland. I am from Belgium but my dad lives is Poland, near Rybnik.
  5. Thank you for the comments ! I still have the standard L26 (euro) , and in comparison with the flattops they are great. The engine pulls cleanly, and at around 3000rpm it really kicks in. The idling is perfect at 900rpm, which was always unstable with the flattops. Next month I´ll be getting a new race prepared L28 engine, so we´lll see what the results are with those carbies. edit: i´ll throw in a detailed picture of the manifold, so you see the quality of the welding. (ps. dont look at the ugly exh. header, it needs to have a paintjob)
  6. I´ve got a 6-carbs setup on my Z. they are Yamaha R1 carbs on a custom manifold. Made in england and beautifully made. They do their job and require little adjustment. I made the decision cause I had the "flattops":
  7. Chris Its Duncan from the Z farm, located in North Yorkshire, a good english friend of mine went to see him. I haven´t actually seen the workplace, but I have full confidence. If you want more details, send me a pm or mail
  8. Allright, thx for the info. I´ll see what th dyno says, and then decide what to do
  9. Hi all, I am currently having an engine made for me in England for my 260Z. It will hit around 230bhp on the engine, and Im guessing around 190 at the rear wheels. I currently have the standard MSA header: http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4041/4350155683_84587db201.jpg Will this suffice for the new engine? If I upgrade to a better header, will it improve overall? Regards Hendrik
  10. Correct, I might try 195 -55 -16 or 205 -45 -16 to try and sort it out. I see you also use 8" rimms, what are your front tires ?
  11. Hi We just went and changed the whole thing,it turned out better. The only problem now is that it rubs when turning hard in the front. The tire size is 205-55-16 , I might try to change the tires. or some small fender work.
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