peng155

When i had the interior out of my car.. I should have but didn't because I wasn't thinking But if I were to do it over I would consider Dynamat insulation, it's kinda pricey, but since I don't plan on selling my Z, it would be worth the investment to me. Just my .02

Here's a link I picked up on another car board I view.. I thought it was kinda interesting article on B-J... http://fourwheeldrift.wordpress.com/2007/01/27/barrett-jacksons-westworld-tents-turn-out-to-be-a-house-of-cards/ Mod... Move this if you want... sorry I think I should have posted this in the General discussion forum section... My bad

There's a '72' 240z for Sale in Seattle area for sale if anyone is interested... http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/car/268864393.html I'm not the seller, and I don't know anything about the car

Hi Folks, Thanks much for the suggestions.... I still haven't decided on how I'll mount the spoiler yet, But I'll either get another hatch from a pick and pull yard as Carl suggested. I also have thought about the 3M adhesive that 240ZGL mentioned. I'll probably get another hatch, since I want to fill in the seams between the spoiler, and hatch with filler. Thanks again.. -Phil

Hi Folks... I ordered a few things from MSA, one of them being the BRE rear spoiler. When I placed the order for the spoiler, I asked the sales guy how the spoiler mounted on the hatch, he told me that it mounted to the side lip edge of the hatch, so I didn't think I would need to drill any holes into the hatch. Well that's not the case, to mount the spoiler I'll need to drill two 5/8 inch holes into the rear hatch something I'm really looking forward to doing on my fairly new paint job. The Datsun, and the 240z badges will also need to be removed and the mounting holes for them will need to be filled in, and painted. I can't rally decide if I should mount the spoiler or not... Part of me likes the clean design of how the back end of the Z looks, But on the other hand part of me feels that the back end lacks a little something... What do you guy's think I should do??

Too bad you don't live closer to me.. I'd take it off your hands for some cash... I'm looking for a 280 engine to mod, and swap into my 240.

It's not so much how it looks now, but what it could look like if it were fixed up... Like I said I've got cabin fever right now, The Z is stored away in the garage until spring or nicer weather returns to the PNW.. but judging from today's weather.. it might be a while I'm thinking about doing stupid things that I normally wouldn't think about doing if I weren't cooped up inside all day from work, and lousy weather

Hi Guy's There's a Datsun 510 on Craig's for sale.... With winter here I've got cabin fever something bad... ready to go crazy if I don't find something to keep me occupied... I originally was looking for a Porsche 914, or a 944 to dink around with... and than I started to think about maybe doing an engine swap on the 240.... Maybe a massaged 2.8, or may be a stroker 3.0. I really wasn't looking for another project.. But a 510 would be pretty cool... What do you guy's think??? :paranoid: Link to the 510 http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/car/260207115.html :squareeye

Rats.... I was hoping all I needed to do was maybe replace the crank handles and that would take care of the problem :nervous: Thanks for the info EScanlon....

Hey All, My window mechanism has some slop in it... The window hand crank will probably move about an inch either way without the window moving. Does anyone know if there is a way to adjust the window mechanism to remove the slop?? Thanks for any advice you can lend.

of you guy's is bidding on this beautiful car on ebay.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-240z-FLAMES-KAMINARY-KIT-CUSTOM-BOX-CUSTOM-DASH-TAIL_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6187QQihZ015QQitemZ250068553550QQrdZ1 If I'm not mistaken isn't this the third time it's been listed on ebay??? :nervous:

Your best bet on finding a early series I ashtray is going to be Ebay, Yes they don't show up very often, but they do appear evey now and than... Be prepared to pay a vey high premium for a non cracked good condition replacement. I picked mine up on Ebay... and ended up paying about 125.00... but when you gotta have it... what are you gonna do?

When I was looking for a place to paint my car I took it to the local Maaco to see what they would say. I inquired about their top of the line paint job, I don't remember what it was called, but I think the base price was 1500. When I asked the guy behind the counter what that all included.. he said it would be paint, some body prep.. which I took to mean light sanding and such. When I asked if that would included removing the head light buckets to make sure that the paint would cover in between the seams.. he said no, and that I wouldn't need to worry about it "Because when they sprayed the paint on they would sprayed it so that the paint would drip into the seams for coverage.... Ok that really wasn't the answer I was looking for. I ended up taking the car to a local paint, and body shop to have the work done. I personally think that the success or failure that you get at a Maaco really depends on the amount of work you do prior to having the car painted, and ultimately on the guy shooting the paint. This was just my own experience with this particular Maaco.

I brought my replacement glove box from MSA, and it holds up fine, I keep a flashlight, my paperwork, and other crap in it... no problems... The only problem I seem to recall is that it wasn't easy nstalling the new replacement glovebox without removing the dash...... Since I didn't have my dash out, and I wasn't about to remove it just to replace the glovebox, I removed most of the staples, so it could be installed, and than I hot glued all of the joints back together. It wasn't easy, but it was easier than taking the dash out.

I think you may have disconnected the main electrical circuit to start the car when you disconnected the amp meter from the car... I can't say for certain on a 72 'Z', but on my 71 their is a large White/Red wire that powers up the fuse block.. I think, it's been a while since I've had to play with the electrical in my Z... Anyway's where this is going is that for the Amp meter to correctly tell you how much current draw there is in the Z, it has to be in line with the main power bus for the car and all of the accessories ... I think by removing the amp gage you've created an open circuit between the power source.. the battery, starter, what have you, and the rest of the cars electrical circuit. I think if you hook the amp meter back up you should be able to turn on all of your car accessories, and start the car...

I recently had my car work done up in Woodinville at a shop called Fenders And Fins, Their website is: http://www.fendersandfins.com/ I whole heartedly recommend them... they aren't inexpensive, but they do great work... check their site out and see some of the stuff that they've done, and are currently doing.... The owner Jon Carson is a great guy... and is a car nut.....

I wanna say check the output voltage on your voltage regulator.... But for some reason I don't think this maybe the problem.... If your blowing a fuse it usually means that something is drawing more current in your circuit than the rating of the fuse.... But if it only happens when you rev the engine the only thing that changes is the engine RPM, and the alternator connected to teh engine via the alternator belt....

Let me tell ya a couple of stories.... Ever since I started working for my current employer I've been taking mass transit here in Seattle.... I swear at least 75% of every car I see on the freeway has only one person in it, the driver, now I gotta admit I still drive my car 1 mile to the Park & Ride lot to catch the bus, and if it wasn't for the fact that I only have to take one bus, and it lets me off, and I can catch it in front of the office building I may not be so inclined to be taking mass transit. Hey CoastGuardZ on the Ninja 250, gotta agree with ya there... I've been seriously considering one of these things.... My only problem is that I have very limited cycle riding experience, as in pretty much nill... I have taken the state motorcycle riders safety course, but that was at least 10 years ago... only thing that held me back from getting my cycle endorsement was worrying about the other idiot drivers on the road... a 2000lb car against a 500lb motorcycle, not much of a contest their, and I hate to be on the losing end of that one. I am making a trip to China this fall, with a overnight stop in Tokyo.... Been to China before back in 1995 or so... The place is amazing there were so many Chinese people on the road during the morning commuting to where ever, it was just astounding, to see this sea of people on bicycles... At that time I don't remembering seeing much mass transit, the mass majority of the population were still riding bicycles at that time. One very noticible thing about China was the air, and water quality... almost every major city that we visited in China had this haze covering the city... it was until we got out to the country side that the sky actually started to look blue again, and the water ways, and rivers.. it was pretty disgusting looking, it'll be quite interesting to see how it all has changed since my last trip....

Hey daddz... Thanks for the compliment.... Not much of a story, I'm the 4th owner of HLS3010924 and as far as I can tell from the paperwork I have.... the car was purchased by the original owner from Beaverton Datsun Nov. 16, 1970.. The car ended up in Seattle where the second owner my friends brother purchased it from a used car dealership Nov. 1972 for the sum of $3797.00 My friend the 3rd owner brought the car from his brother in 1976 as soon as we were able to get our drivers license.... My buddy got married, and as usual priorities change and I picked it up from him for $2500.00. It was in pretty rough shape appearance wise when I got a hold of it. I spent the last 4 years refurbishing various items on the car... It was the classic case of disassembling one thing on the car, which led to disassembling something else, and so on, and so forth... But most of it was appearance stuff.. carpet, seats, new weather seals. I finally decide on a body/paint shop and had it repainted the original factory color #919 last spring. Engine wise all stock.. only mods I've made so far have been to change out the alternator-external VR setup to a GM alternator with a internal VR, and updated the fusible link to a blade type fuse. I currently am trying to decide on what to replace the stock engine with.... I'm leaning towards a SU carbureted L28 setup, So there you have it the story of HLS3010924

Thanks for the info... I always associated anodizing with coloring metal parts.... ya know like anodizing engine components blue, gold, red for show... never thought of clear anodizing... Learn something new here everyday

Hey Arne... The lips on the wheels are in real good shape... no curb rash... And if I am not mistaken I think they are polished, and not anodized.. If that is the case would the lips still have a clear coat on them?? And this is really gonna sound like a stupid question... BUT if I just use the wax, and oil remover on them would I still need to remove the clear coat off the gold center portions, or can I just paint them black, and then clear coat them?? Thanks

Oh man don't even get me going about trucks... i got a Dodge 1500 RAM.. I USE to use it to commute to the locale Park & Ride, plus all of my daily errands... Every freckin week and half I'd be at Costco filling it up to the tune of 60.00 bucks... Finally bought a 700.00 used Prelude off of Craigs List... Best 700 buck I ever spent... Now the truck just sits unless I need to make a dump, or Home Depot run....

If I may offer my thoughts... beg, borrow, buy a sending unit that is know to be in working condition, and measure the resistance at the full, position, and at the empty postion... When you pull your tank you'll need to remove your sending unit anyways.. at that time check your units measurement against the working one.. Just from reading the write up I'll assume that the resistance will need to be increased to get your fuel gage calibrate to read empty. Only problem is that you'll need to calibrate the sender to the fuel gage that is in the car, and you may need to take in to consdieration the car sending unit wiring since the sending unit, and gage operate on resistance. Again I am assuming that the wiring shouldn't make a huge difference, but in a 30 year old car you never know...

Maybe this isn't the correct place to post this, and if not my apologies... But I just gases up the Z yesterday at Costco... Normally I would gas up at a Cheveron with Premium... But yesterday I opted for the Costco Premium gas.. 3.15 a gal, and it cost me 30.00 bucks for me to fill it up the 3/4 of a tank I needed for a full tank... How depressing... I finally get the car back together, Spring is here, and summer right around the coner.. and it looks like the Z will be parked in the garage till gas get to the sub 2.80 range If we ever see that again... So just so i don't feel so bad, will gas prices effect anyone elses use of there ride... and how much is gas in your neighborhood... sheeeezzzzzzz

Depends on what your testing for... See Tomohawks thread above.. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21364 and check out the link... again I have no first hand experience with testing, or calibrating the fuel sending unit, or gage.. but it's a starting place..