peng155

That's the exact same thing my girlfriend is always asking me Steve :devious: I saw in the post for those slim speaker pods that you got a pair Steve, How do you like them? I might give those a try... Thanks

Hey Brian, That's the info i was needing.... I wasn't sure if I was being stupid, and not seeing something in getting either the lamp assembly removed without actually un-soldering the connection at the bulb holder.... Thanks again... -Phil

If you're looking for stock ride, and height, you'll need to look for OEM stock springs.... I'm not positive, but I think pretty much anything out that is aftermarket lowers the car, and firms up the ride... Your best bet probably is either Ebay, or a salvage yard. The springs from Arizona Z Car states that they are "Considerably stiffer than stock" not what you're looking for

Hey Guy's, Here is the Q Logic kick panel enclosure I'm sort of looking at.. Universal Fit, Speaker Pod, Component Speaker Kick Panel [QL-U5001] - $109.99 : Q-Logic Direct, Car Audio Speaker and Subwoofer Enclosures Unfortunately they don't make a enclosure for our car any more because the car is too old.... Too bad I was thinking about buying a pair and seeing if they could be modified to fit in the foot well / kick panel area.. unfortunately the picture on the website isn't very good.. and I can't get a very good idea of the depth, and shape of the over all enclosure to see if some minor modification would let it be useable in the foot well. Steve, thanks for the link on the low profile speaker pod..... I sort of have something like it already, that I made a while back.... the problem with it is that the speaker is pointed at my feet, so not much of the sound is being direct up into the passenger cabin... The nice thing about the Q Logic enclosures is that the speakers are angled upwards so more of the sound is directed up in to the passenger area, and not at my feet I'm contemplating on just making my own enclosure... but that means I need to make a form for the speaker to fit, and then I need to cover it with fiberglass, and then covered to match the interior... not hard to do.. time consuming... and I'm just feeling kinda of lazy right now...

Hey Folks, I was just curious if anyone had ever tried to modify a Q Logic kick panel speaker enclosure for the 240 Z... I could make my own... But I'm feeling a bit lazy, and I'm hoping I could just buy something pre-made, and just modify it to fit the car kick panel area.. Thanks

Hey Damienas, I thought i throw my .02 in..... 600 bucks is cheap, no doubt about that.... I hate to be a kill joy, I remember what it was like getting my first car at 17.... BUT before you pull the trigger make sure you have someone go over the car thoroughly, I know this is your friends dad who is selling you that car.... but just make sure you go in to this with both eyes open.. The radiator cleaning shouldn't be a big problem.. DEPENDING on how bad it is.. You might be able to get way with just flushing it out, or you may need to take it in to have professional cleaned, You might ask your friends dad, what makes him think the radiator needs cleaning. Rust can happen pretty much anywhere on the car... but I noticed that you're in Vegas, can be a good thing because your climate is much drier there... I don't know about the 280, but trouble spots on the 240 were the rear dog leg, floor board, rear hatch lip, under the battery tray area to name a few. As Rossiz said any 30+ yr. old car will present learning opportunities... part of that learning is being able to source parts that may not be made any more, or it might cost you 2 arms, a leg, and probably your first born if you can find the part. Make sure you have a place where the car can be worked on and left undisturbed if needed... the last thing you'll want and need is to tear into the car to fix something you might think is simple, only to find out half way through it ain't, or you get it back together and it won't start or run.... Make sure you have some basic hand tools.. screw drivers, wrenches (open, and box end) in metric and standard sizes.. or have access to them... a multimeter will come in handy as well. And lastly if you do bite the bullet... you buy the car and it becomes a project... I don't want to say "make sure" But try to keep it as a rolling project... One of the other member said that one reason 'Z' project go by the way side, or the owner loses interest is that they aren't able to enjoy the car while working on it. Good luck

Hey Webmanic, Thanks for the info..

Hey Chris, Thanks, I'll have a closer look at it tonight... Thanks

You need to do some simple troubleshooting first, and provide some information... Where is the amp meter needle pointing in the following situations, also what year is your 'Z'? 1) Engine OFF, NO accessories ON (Amp Meter needle should be in the MIDDLE of the gauge, No current flow, electrical system not charging, or dis-charging) 2) Engine OFF, Headlights ON (Amp Meter needle should move to the LEFT of the middle of the gauge, Current flow, electrical system is dis-charging) 3) Engine ON, NO accessories ON (Amp Meter needle should move to the RIGHT of the middle of the gauge, electrical system is charging) 4) Engine ON, Headlights ON (Amp Meter needle should move further to the RIGHT of the middle of the gauge, electrical system is charging at a higher output) Also what does the amp needle do with the engine OFF, and you have the turn signal ON, either LEFT, or RIGHT (Amp Meter needle should move move back, and forth) Just trying to determine if your amp meter is indeed not working or not.... Your statement " The ahmeter is not working, it dials in the middle" isn't really saying much.. If you have an early 'Z', your amp/fuel meter should look like this.. To a certain extent it doesn't matter if your fuel gauge works or not... they are two separate gauges in the same housing

Hey Steve, I just rechecked Black Dragon's website, and it only showed that they could get the front bumper... it looked like they disn't have the rear in stock... Whitehead racing shows they can get the front, and rear JDM.... I may just bite the bullet and fork out the 1200 bucks thanks

Thanks for the info guy's... Chas, I would consider the Harrington Group option.... But WOW, 1200 bucks.... Too bad the Motorsport supplier isn't able to supply them anymore.... they were half the price, I'll probably follow Jerry's suggestion and have the holes on my current one welded close, and then have it re-chromed. thanks again -Phil

Hey Folks, I'm looking for a front, and rear bumper for the 'Z' I'm looking for the clean style bumper that do not have any of the mounting holes for the rubber end pieces or bumperettes. Anyone have any suggestions? Got word yesterday from Motorsports that their supplier isn't making them anymore.... Thanks

Ok, let me have a look around tonight, and this week-end.. will let you know if I can find you some

Jerry, Are you looking for actual orginal retaining nuts.... or radio shaft retaining nuts that will fit the stock radio? I only ask because I do still have my stock orginal radio, along with all of the mounting pieces, but I also have a bunch of misc odd & end radio parts from when the radios were analog.

Hey Jeff, I did see that change in your original post... good idea... I'll make sure I mention that to the fabricator when I see him. Thanks again.

Hey Jeff, Thanks for taking the time to come up with the CAD drawing for the bracket... it makes it real easy for me to just hand it to the metal guy's to fab up for me. Phil

Hey Mike, thanks for the suggestion.... I actually did order a billet hold down frame from Summit for the Optima, and was going to do exact the same as you, but the tray for the one I had ordered was physically to big to fit in the factory tray area... ended up sending it back. I know some metal work guys from work, with the plans that Carl linked to, I'll probably have a bracket made up for me... Thanks all for your input... it is apprceated

Hi Brian, Thanks for the reply... I got your PM... And no need to apologize, we all get busy Yeah, I'm still working on getting my engine bay lamp re-plated.... What I'm trying to figure out is... Is there a way to remove the center portion of the lamp head, So I can send the head, and body in for re-plating? Here's a picture of the part I'm trying to figure out if I can remove prior to plating (the part with the red arrow), I'm not seeing anyway that this center portion comes out, without cutting it out. If that piece isn't removable.... Will the bulb still work correctly after it's been re-plated?? I'm thinking it won't.. Let me know how and if you had a solution to this problem... thanks, -Phil

thanks Carl

Hey S30Driver, How do you have your Red Top secured in the battery tray? Need to find some sort of diversion from the TV right now... Hawks are getting schooled by the Chargers But it only the 3rd quarter.... still hope

Sean, Great pictures... Thanks for posting.... Your car looks amazing, along with the rest. I wish there were something like this around here in the Seattle area.... but it's mostly the younger crowd (at least compared to me) with the Honda's, Suburu's around here. I'm pretty envious... Keep posting if you can.... these pictures are fun to see. -Phil

Hahaha...... Yeah been there, after I've forgotten (actually just lazy) to put the charger on the battery

Hey Folks, I was curious as to what type/make battery you had in your 'Z' Right now I have a regular lead acid battery in the 'Z'... after I drive the car and park back in the garage, I pull the battery, put it on the bench and hook up my smart charger to it to keep the battery charged... This get's to be a pain, BUT I'm worried about the acid boiling out, and getting all over the place in the engine bay if the charger goes wonky... I also have a Red Top Optima that I have another smart charger in the garage, but it doesn't fit the factory battery hold down frame... I would prefer to switch to the sealed Optima that way I think I'm safer from battery acid getting all over the engine bay when it's hook-up to the charger. I've never had a problem with a leaking battery... I'm I being paranoid?? thanks.... -Phil

Thanks.. I appreciate your help

I'm wiring in a new alarm system.... and I needed to find a place to tap the alarms Ignition connection into.... I thought I needed to find a source that was hot while in the Start & Run position due to what Zed Head posted... But now after re-reading the install manual I think I'll be ok in just tapping into any location that's hot, so I'll try jfa.series1 suggestion of using the radio circuit.