peng155

Thanks for sharing the emails... Too funny Sorry you have to deal with such idiots :stupid:

Always wanted a Five&dime to add to the one car Datsun collection I have... too bad I don't have an extra 17K under the matress

Oh yeah ...... Actually I was just being lazy when I did the post, just did a search on melted fuse boxes and posted the link.... If you put Dave's upgrades head light, and parking light upgrades in instead of having all of the current run through the combo switch, and the fuse block, you re-direct the current through the relay's in the upgrade... I've installed both of Dave's head light, and parking light upgrades, as well have having him re-condition both combo, and turn signal switch mechanisms.. probably one of the better investments I made in the 'Z' since I owned it. It's been over a year since I've had the car out on the road... I'm still screwing around installing all of the ignition and distributor crap I brought a few months ago.

I think I had a simlar problem with my 'Z' a few years back... Check this thread out and it may solve your problem.. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1267&highlight=Melting+fuse+block

I've never purchased or dealt with this individual, but you probably should read this post before you decide to deal with them http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32275

Thanks Arne, I just did some reading in my Datsun books, and it would seem my options if I were to pickup this engine would be to source a a 76 or earlier head with the square exhaust ports, or make sure I get the stock exhaust manifold with the engine, and plan on redoing the exhaust system when I make the swap (?)

I boo-booed... it's a 77 280Z, Not sure if the engine is runnable since the guy is parting the car out.. I was planning on making the engine a part time hobby learn how to rebuild an engine when I don't have anything better to do time killer. I was planning on using as many of the bolt on engine components from the L24 as I could.. mainly the distributor, intake, and exhaust manifold's. I was considering heading to a pick & pull to get my guinea pig subject, but I sort of thought that getting an engine from a private party part-out might be a safer route (?) I'm checking to see if the engine can be started up. Thanks guy's

thanks for the input guy's... I'll be staying with a SU setup

Hi Folks..... I've been thinking about an engine swap for my Z, for a while now... There's a 77 ZX non-turbo being parted out in the locale area. The owner is advertising it as having low miles. I'm still running the stock engine in the car, I swapped out the stock 4-speed for a 5-speed, but I do still have the original 4 speed stored in the garage somewhere, if I do the swap I'll be keeping the original engine in case I want to go back to the original engine and tranny sometime down the road. The seller is asking 300 bucks for the engine, do you guy's think this asking price is reasonable ?? Thanks -Phil

Becareful with the WD-40, it won't harm the paint of anything like that, but when I used it to remove some adhesive residue in the bed of my truck to prep it up for a Line-X spray in liner. The WD-40 worked great at removing the adhesive no problems. When I brought the truck in to have the liner sprayed in... the guy who did the work told me how tough of a time he had in getting the bed clean where I applied the WD-40 to remove the old adhesive.. he tried all types of solvents to remove the residue, but he still couldn't get it cleaned, so he ended up sanding the paint down in those areas so the spray liner would adhere to the paint surface. Since your repainting the car this may, or may not be a problem, but just be aware. The last thing you want is to have a nice finish on it, only to have the paint in areas where you used the WD-40 start flaking off or something like that.

I started the car up before i started doing any work, so i know the timing is currently correct... now if it stay's that way after I get done is another matter :nervous:

This is what I'm sort of worried about... The timing marks are in the general ball park of the pointer on the block, The rotor is pointing to the #1 plug wire on the cap. Should I take the valve cover off and check to make sure the valves on #1 are closed? Thanks

Thanks for the info Dave, I'll have fun once the weather turns sunny, and the car is back on the road again. I still got the electrical upgrade I recently emailed you about to do, and the induction mods I'll need to do to make room for the MSD. I'll be in touch.... -Phil

Hi Folks, Basic timing question for you.... I'm replacing the stock distributor in the 'Z' with a Mallory Unilite unit. If I line up the TDC mark on the engine pulley with the timing mark on the engine block, will this be close enough to where once I make the swap the engine will start up so i can hook up a timing lite to get it dialed in? The TDC mark doesn't exactly have the rotor line up with the number 1 plug position on the cap, and I don't want to remove anything before I have the timing lined up correctly. Thanks -Phil

The broken curved piece of metal is the ground contact for the horn button, The red wire in all likelihood use to be the positive contact from the horn. I say use to be since you say you now have a button under the dash that operates the horn now. You might consider having one or both of your switches rebuilt by Dave, here's his post. I had my done recently...and they came back looking great, or he maybe able to repair, or tell you how to go about repairing the horn contact. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24304&highlight=Combo+switch+rebuild

I like driving the 'Z' around, BUT when I remember that I have an errand to do, I usually find the parking spot furthest from the crowd, drag out the club and lock it on to the steering wheel, lock the doors, and set the alarm. Than while I'm shopping I'm worrying if someone is parking next to it and giving it a nice parking lot door bruise, or if someone is casing it out trying to figure out how to jack the car..... And if I'm ****'s (a locale burger joint).. I can't relax at all Sometimes I think it would be easier on the nerves to own a Porsche..... :surprised

Thanks Dave

Hi Guy's... I'm sure this it's pretty simple.. BUT can someone tell me how to remove the dome light in a 71 'Z'? I went through my manuals, but nada on how to remove it, I need to take mine out and see if the push switch is broke. the push to manually turn on, Push to turn off doesn't work any more.. I use to feel it click on, and off... not anymore. MSA wants 60 bucks for a new one, so I thought I'd see if I can fix this one before I buy a new one. Thanks

Question... How do you know there is a short??... If you have a short you should be blowing a fuse. Also how long does it take to drain the battery down?

Ed, I think I did see this mentioned again in one of the past threads that came up in my search... thanks for the suggestion... I'll give it a try. thanks

Hi Carl, I saw your past post on the subject during my search... thanks for re-posting in this thread. I did note in your past post that without knowing the whole maintenance history the dash, if a new owner spiffs up the interior, and starts to drive said car on a regular bases yeah I can see where an old aged dash that didn't show or have any significant signs of distress, can now start to show signs the signs. My car only comes out during the summer, and it's very limited at that, other wise the rest of the time its under wraps in the garage. I guess the best thing is to go by K.I.S.S.... Keep It Simple Stupid so it looks like a mild soap, water cleaning is probably the best thing.... Luckily the graying that I am seeing is in the finish panel in between the windshield, and the actual dash... The dash itself color wise is still in very good shape, and I hope will out last me.

Hey Guy's Thanks for all the suggestions... I did call the folks at ZTherapy and they have a lead time of about 7 to 14 day's.. And they offered the use of their facilities to swap out the carbs there if I wanted to... They said it take about a half day to do the swap... Still haven't decided if I'll head down to pick the up, or just have them sent up... I'll keep ya all posted...

Hi Guy's I've been searching through the old post looking to see if there is a preferred method to care for the original dash in my Z. The one thing that I have been able to come away with from previous post is that I should stay away from applying Armor-All to the dash unless I wish to continue applying it on a regular bases. I know the car has always been garaged since the first owner. Since I've had the car anytime it's been left outside in the sun for an extended period of time, I've always put a windshield sun shade in place (I'm the 4th owner). The dash is showing signs of age, with the black stating to fade (no cracks yet).. I've been thinking about just applying a black vinyl top type dressing to the dash to restore the color. Cleaning wise I don't do anything fancy just a damp rag dipped in a bucket of mild soap, and water. Anybody have any other recommendations?? thanks

I'll probably call them tomorrow to see what type of lead time they need... and if they have a garage service to do an install. I got most of the tools that I would need to do the swap.... just worried about the seized or broken bolt, or not being able to get the carbs synch correctly to where I could drive it the machanics to get it tuned properly

Hello Folks, I decided to treat the Z to a new pair of SU's from Z Therapy... With summer finally here I thought I'd take a road trip on down to Salem, OR. and pick the carbs up myself. I have a couple of questions, and I thought I ask for opinions... First off does anyone know if Z Therapy have a garage service to where I could have them swap the carbs out while I'm down there? If not can anyone suggest a reliable, reputable garage that would be able to do the swap while I was in Salem... thought I would save myself the core, and shipping cost, and spend it on the gas for the trip the other question is would this be a good idea?? Should I just send away for them and have my mechanic install them? My fear is if something should malfunction related to the new carbs, or something else... I live in Seattle, WA so it's not like were talking about driving half way across the country... but it sure does feel like it when your stuck on the side of the road with a car that won't run. Beside as the commercial goes "Driving up I-5 in a clean shiny old school Z, with a new set of SU's...... Priceless :)" What do you guy's think... thanks