JLPurcell

I was bidding on this with the intention of re-listing it after I used it as a pattern to make my own. I fell out early at just over $100. I am still looking for one, they are no longer available through NISMO parts. JLP

Are you leaving the Dash? I will be glad to forward some pic's of my cars cage but the dash was removed prior to building the cage. JLP

Hey, Welcome I'm 70 miles east of you in Richmond, IN. JLP

Can anyone help identify this bumper. It looks like a 240Z bumper but the license plate bracket is offset to the left (drivers side) between the center and the driverside over-rider position. All the 240 Bumpers I have seen have the bracket centered. JLP

I went through the part numbers on this site and here are the Datsun Z parts: 2- Spindle/Strut Assy. RH 54302-N3425 1- Sun Visor RH with Mirror 260 from Aug 73 96401-N4700 1- Gas Filler Hose 17208-N4500 7- Intake Valves 13201-A1100 Thats all I could find in the 6 pages of part #'s JLP

Scott, Give me your address again and I will send you the bracket. JLP

Scott, I have attached a photo of the original bracket to go with the part that I sent you. Due to the fact that this part is welded to the car I did not include it with the part I sent you which attaches to it. I removed it from the car this morning. On the left you can see the two spot weld points and near the right end you can see the two holes for the machine screws. If you need this part let me know. JLP

The factory replacement quarter goes to the hatch rail. My 70 is modified and the hatch is no longer on it so I can’t look to it as an example. I wonder if installing the machine screws may not have been a recall or a dealer repair to some cars. I do know that some cars had a problem with the support twisting and coming loose at the hatch rail. JLP

On my 1972 the bracket is welded in two places at the point of origin (behind the plastic rear quarter trim) and under the lip of the rear hatch. On the 1973 parts car the bracket was welded at the point of origin and had two round head machine screws through the body hatch rail. The screws are about 1/4" long. I'm sure this is the reason for the holes in your rail. I will try and post some photos tomorrow. JLP

Scott. The part I sent attaches to a bracket which is welded in the car. It is on the left side about mid-way on the hatch opening. If the bracket is not there I will have to check to see if I still have the one in my parts car and you would have to have it welded in. I will also try to get you a picture tomorrow of the bracket on my 72. JLP

You might want to check a couple of things: A pressure test on your cooling system. A head gasket leak will cause your plugs to look white and clean but it is unlikely that all the plugs would look that way. It could be a fueling problem a lean charge will make the plugs white and the engine run hot. If the intake manifold is leaking unmetered intake air you can also get a lean hot situation. :nervous: I take it you have checked the basic set up on the ignition etc. JLP

Chris, maybe I would find my own niche in the reproduction glove box market if I installed a hideaway compartment for crack pipes.

"Z"appy 21st :devious: Birthday.jlp

I'm in the 50+ club and own both. :knockedou My 1970 (I've owned it since 1976) HLS30 00029 is a IMSA prepaired race car. and my 1972 (owned since new) is a street car (being restored). JLP

Congratulations, enjoy the ride!

I'm with the old Z guy, I have to punch the 50+ button and I still have my 1972 I purchased new!!! One thing we can honestly say "been there done that!"...

I've seen the kit on 240Z's before. It's still available I believe for a few thousand dollars. It's a fiberglass kit that replaces the nose and covers the rear finders. The twist on this one is the removal of the roof and the V8. I don't think they will get any takers but you never know!

Mike, Now I get it! :stupid: That's what I get for coming late to the game without a program. JLP

Mike, I will be looking forward to Chris's reply to your question. I would have this to say. If the car is in need of the parts listed then the value is minimal. If not then it would be wise for the seller to sale the parts independent of the car. From my experience anytime you sale parts in a group or along with a car the value of the parts is diminished. Now as for a matching original engine block, I place value in that if the buyer plans a "restoration" of the car. JLP

I believe that NADA uses a formula considering recent sales to help determine value. For such a drastic change in value something has to be askew. A small sample group can be drastically altered by one or two sales. I believe that the recent NADA values for the 1972 240Z is probably due to a lack of trading of high end examples during the sample period. I will need to do more research but I know such a formula is used by Edmonds TMV and others. JLP

I am please with the great response to this thread!!! :classic: I hope other join in with their thoughts. Carl you really hit home for me with you post. I am finding all perspectives refreshing. I hope to have a bone stock car soon and then I will feel more free to restore/preserve my 72 to a mild 70's compititon state. :nervous: JLP

I just recieved an email from Les Cannaday (Classic Datsun). He has been following this thread. He said Carl has been sharing some really good information. He said he would be posting some information soon. JLP

For my 2 cents, go with the 2 stage while your buying. With the tools your listing you would be undersize with the single stage 60gal. Another suggestion, I have a 80gal. 2 stage, I ran 1/2" pvc lines around my garage and "T'd" off with one to the center of the ceiling of my garage and placed hose fittings about every 10' and in the center of the ceiling of my garage. I attached the compressor via a rubber line to the wall lines. I love it and I don't have to drag the hose all over the shop.JLP

What is a car-jacket and where do you suggest I get one?