John Coffey

Got one new from Pep Boys last year for $16.99.

Probably and no.

Yes.

Apply for an EIN from the IRS and then organize as a non-profit under the IRS' 501©3 ruls.

Smaller, lighter battery. Lightweight racing seats. Remove stereo, speakers, antenna, and wiring. Aluminum radiator. Sheet metal headlight buckets. Remove hood hinges, springs, and latch mechanism. Replace with pins. Carbon fiber or fiberglass hood. Carbon fiber or fiberglass rear hatch. Replace rear hatch glass with Lexan. Remove AC and heater and all related switches and plumbing. Use Type B 4 speed. Lightweight rims and tires (weigh them, don't rely on what the sales people tell you.) Run the early bumpers and get rid of any overriders. Run a header with a thin wall stainless exhaust system.

In addition to thinking about more power, keep working on reducing the weight of the car. Lightwieght racing seats add immensly to the feel of the car and can be very comfortable on the street. Smaller, lighter battery, light rims and tires, going back to the stock single piston front calipers, removing the stereo, stainless exhaust, etc.

> how much hp does the L24 engine from the 240Z produce? About 120 at the rear wheels and the books says about 150. > was it ever fuel injected? No. The L28 engine in the 280 had Bosche L-Jetronic fuel injection. > I saw specifications from a chilton manual stating that the 77 > and 78 810 with the L24 could produce 154 hp and it has EFI. And the spec for the 280Z L28 was something like 170 hp. > anybody know why? The 154 number is close to what the spec is for the L24 in the Z. > and anyway to modify to the higher hp? Seems like that's already been done. If you need more, there are hundreds of ways to get more horserpower out of an L24. All you need is money and time. Read up on this site and at: http://www.zhome.com http://www.hybridz.org http://www.zcar.com http://www.zdriver.com

Go to http://www.zhome.com and start reading. Wick Humble's "How to Resore Your Datsun Z-Car" is a must have. Educate yourself first before writing that $5K check. It'll save you thousands!

Go to the Campfire Stories forum and read "The Stub Axle." There are two tricky parts about removing the stub axle and both involve removing the nut holding it in. You have to cut off the flats that are peened into the axle before removing the nut. A die-grinder or Dremel with a cut-off wheel is the way to go. Using a chisel tends to damage the threads on the axle. The second tricky part is getting the nut off. You'll have to generate about 250 ft. lbs. of torque to remove it. An air impact gun helps a lot here. Once the nut is off, you can either use the slide hammer routine or put a brass punch on the back of the axle and pound it out with a hammer. Inspect the stub axle for cracks or pits around the splines and where the flange is fusion welded to the axle (both sides). If there are any cracks or pits, throw the stub axle away and start searching junk yards. Check the old (and new) bearings while they are in the housing to be sure the outer race does not spin in the housing. It should be a slight press fit. If the outer bearing race spins in the housing (rare), your strut housing is ovaled and is junk. Back to the junkyard. After 250,000 miles its time to replace the bearings and the seals. Only buy brand new Nissan, Timken, or SKF bearings. Have the outer pressed on at a machine shop, repack with Mobile 1 or Redline synthetic, and reassemble. Don't worry about the pre-load measurement listed in the Haynes or Nissan manual. You can't adjust it. Just be sure to use the correct spacer and also be sure to put the axle, spacer, and companion flange back in the side of the car they came off. Good luck!

So many questions... > I'm figuring I'll end up with coilovers in the long run, but to start > out I'm thinking springs, Koni's, poly bushings, and adjustable > sway bars. Replace every suspenstion bushing, steering rack, steering coupler, moustache bar bushing, etc. with poly. When you run coilovers on a 240Z you have to shorten the strut tubes to get back some suspension travel. If you get a set of struts right now you'll have to replace them with shorter ones when you go to coilovers. > What spring rates should I start with? For a stock suspension car you'll have to go with whatever springs you can get. You don't have much choice on rates. European Stage 2 springs, Eibachs, or Suspension Techniques are all OK choices. The Euro springs ahve the lowest rate and the Suspension techniques the highest. The Eibahcs (if you cna still get them) at the best choice because they lower the car only about 1". > How much can I lower the car without messing up the > suspension geometry? Any lowering messes up the geometry on the front of a 240Z. The inherent bumpsteer problem is exacerbated and there's no SP legal way to correct it. Without shortening the struts you don't want to lower the car more than an inch. > How much camber will the car pick up when it is lowered? Are > camber plates absolutely necessary, or can I get away with > doing them later? Probably .5 degrees negative in the front and a little more in the rear. The Z needs about the following alignment settings to get it to work the best in autocross: Front Camber - 3 to 3.5 degrees negative Caster - 6 degrees positive Toe - 1/4 to 3/8" out Ackerman - any that you cna get Ride height - 4.5 to 5" Rear Camber - 2.5 to 3 degrees negative Caster - exactly at factory spec Toe - 0 to 3/16" in You need coilovers, camber plates, and offset poly bushings to hit those numbers. > Are there any rear ends that I can ud/bd that have a decent > LSD? I know I'll have to put in an aftermarket one eventually, > but the budget is pretty tight. Also, what rear end ratios are > available? No factory LSDs were available in the 240/260/280Z. You have two diff choices, the R180 and the R200. The R180 is the way to go because its lighter and has better halfshaft angles. Its plenty strong for anything up to 300hp. You ahve two ratio choices: 3.36 or 3.54. Go with the 3.54. A Nissan Comp clutch LSD is $800 new and about $400 used. For autocross you want to run a 70lb preload and you'll have to rebuild it each year. A Quaife is about $1,000. A welded up R180 is about $100 and, with proper suspension tuning, can be very effective. > Is there any way to ud/bd 4 wheel discs and is this mod worth > doing? Not legal in SP and not worth the extra weight at an autocross. > I've heard the heads from some years breathe better than > others, what years should I look at? You'll want to run an L28 using the N42 block and N42 head. > I'm guessing that custom FI is the ultimate way to go for > power, but since I'm poor what carburator(s) is/are > recommended? The stock 1970 thru 1972 SU carbs are very good. > What would you recommend for wheels and tires? Will a 13x10 > with 225/45/13 Hoosiers (you know, CSP wheels) be enough > tire with the stock motor? > I'm guessing I'll need to put more rubber down when I start > making more power, what wheel/tire combos are the other BSP > cars running? I don't think those rims will clear the front calipers. If so, then they will work but you might have some fender clearance problems. Most folks run either 225/50-15 Kumho or Hoosiers on 15 x 7 or 15 x 8 rims, or 245-265/45-16 Kumho or Hoosier tires on 16 x 8 or 16 x 10 rims.

http://www.opentrackchallenge.com/ I'll be running my 240Z in the Unlimited 2 class.

Here's a good place to start reading: http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/z.html

Scott Bruning at Z Therapy is rumored to be testing an L6 with six SU carbs on it. I think he's just doing it for fun. The two carb SU setup Nissan designed for the L6 works very well to about 250 crank horsepower. Above that you need to run fuel-injection or triple Webers.

Also works well to make you feel better after twice trying to trash your car... ;-)

Sorry for the really late reply... A racing coil-over suspension usually consistes of a camber plate, shortened strut tubes, 2.5" or 2.25" diameter 10" or 8" linear coil springs, and an adjustable lower spring perch. Because the springs are easily replaced, you can run as soft or a as firm a spring rate as you desire. Stock Z spring rates were around 110 lb in. Racing spring rates are at least double and sometimes triple that rate. Personally I think racing coil-over kits are not appropriate for the street. When mounted correctly they transmit a significant amount of road and suspension noise into the car. In addition, they are an expensive way to get a lowered street look. John Coffey johnc@betamotorsports.com

The noise could be anything, but internal diff noises normally don't just suddenly appear. I would check mouting bolts (tran, diff, and all suspension), lug nuts, u-joints, etc. ------------------ ---------- John Coffey johnc@betamotorsports.com

Hi, Sorry for the late reply... For a stock or slightly modified L6 engine its really hard to beat the torque and horsepower you get from dual SUs. Nissan did their homework and its a good induction system. When you start into the heavier modifications like aggresive cams, higher compression, head work, etc. then you'll benefit from the additional breating that triple Webers, Solexes, etc. give you. Now, you said that you have a 280ZX engine, right? I suggest you use the L-jetronic fuel injection system that came stock on that engine. When tuned and working properly its as good or better than any dual SU setup. Good luck and welcome. ------------------ ---------- John Coffey johnc@betamotorsports.com [This message has been edited by John Coffey (edited 02-15-2001).]

Keith, Really check the car out for rust. In particular, use a screwdriver and check: 1. The drive and passenger floorpans (from below and above). 2. The front frame rails from the firewall forward. 3. The rear hatch striker plate panel. 4. The rocker panels and boxes on both sides of the car. From the insiode you can peel up the vinyl covers over the rocker boxes and look inside. ------------------ ---------- John Coffey johnc@betamotorsports.com

Front brake rotors (2) Front brake calipers (2) Front brake bleeder screws (2) Front "S" brake lines (1) Front hub (1) Front lug bolts (4) Lug nuts (16) Front brake pads (2 sets) Rear brake drums (2) Rear wheel cylinders (2) Rear brake lines (1) Rear brake shoes (1 set) Master cylinder (1) Front lower control arm w/ bushing & ball joint (1) Front wheel bearings inner/outer (2 sets) Rear lower control arm w/ bushings (1) Stub axles (1) Companion flange (1) Rear wheel bearings (2 sets) Cotter pins (various) Complete built up halfshaft (1) Complete built up driveshaft (1) Rear lug bolts (4) Front diff mount (1) Front diff strap (1) Trans mount (1) Engine mount (2) Transmission (1) Clutch (1) Pressure plate (1) Clutch slave cylinder (1) Tie rod end (2) Fuel pump (1) Fuel filters (2) Fuel hose (6') Hose clamps (various) Head gasket (1) Valve cover gasket (2) Fan belts (2) Radiator hoses (2) Heater hoses (8') Oil filter (1) Oil lines (6') Oil fittings (various) Spark plugs (12) Distributor cap (1) Pints and condensor (2) Plug wires (1 set) Wiper blades (1 set) Alternator (1) Regualtor (1) Wire (various) Fuses (various) Fusible link (2) Battery (1) Battery cables (2) Starter and solenoid (1) Thermostat (1) Thermostat housing gasket (1) Carburator rebuild kit (2) Throttle return springs (2) Air filters (2) Exhaust header (1) Intake/exhaust manifold gasket (2) Carburator gaskets (4) Header to exhaust system gasket (4) Radiator (1) Radiator cap (1) Dry Tires (4) Wet tires (4) Wheels (4) And I'm sure I'm missing something. BTW... NOBODY ever has all of these spares at an event. ------------------ ---------- John Coffey johnc@betamotorsports.com

Might as well have a shop go through the head. There's not much of a difference in the cam profiles so just get a new stock cam. If your 260Z still have the stock Hitachi flat top carburators I would replace them with a set of round tops. Contact Scott at Z Therapy: http://www.ztherapy.com. ------------------ ---------- John Coffey johnc@betamotorsports.com

Sounds like you ran out of fuel. Maybe your fuel pump is not keeping up at higher speeds/RPMs? ------------------ ---------- John Coffey johncof@veriomail.com

Here's my routine when getting into the car on grid at an autocross: 1. Get in the car. 2. Strap myself in (5 point harness). 3. Realize the keys to the car are in my front pocket. 4. Unstrap. 5. Get out of the car and get the keys out of my pocket. 6. Get in the car. 7. Strap myself in. 8. Put the keys in the ignition. 9. Notice my helmet sitting on the passenger floor. 10. Unstrap. 11. Put the helmet on the passenger seat. 12. Strap myself in. 13. Notice the driver's door is still open. 14. Wonder why the guy next to me on grid thinks this is so funny. 15. Unstrap. 16. Close the driver's door on the lap belt. 17. Try to strap back in. 18. Open the door to free up the lap belt. 19. Strap myself in. 20. Notice the driver's door is still open. 21. Start getting irritated at guy next to me on grid who is cackling like a chicken. 22. Put helmet on head, scraping sunglasses down nose and onto the floor. 23. Take helmet off. 24. Unstrap. 25. Pickup glasses. 26. Strap myself in. 27. Notice my helmet sitting on the passenger floor. 28. Decide the guy next to me on grid is having a coronary by the way he's twitching and jerking. 29. Unstrap. 30. Put the helmet on my head. 31. Try to strap myself in but I can't see the latch because of the helmet. 32. Take helmet off, carefully putting it on the passenger seat. 33. Strap myself in. 34. Starting to hope the coronary the guy is going through finishes soon. 35. Put helmet on. 36. Notice sunglasses on passenger side of dash. 37. Unstrap. 38. Put glasses on. 39. Strap myself in. 40. The guy next to me must be dead 'cuz I can't see him sitting up in the car anymore. ------------------ ---------- John Coffey johncof@veriomail.com [This message has been edited by John Coffey (edited 09-29-2000).]

Yes, I did it again... I must have pissed off the powers above earlier this year. Yesterday (last June) I was at a driving school at Buttonwillow race track near Bakersfield, CA. Got through a couple sessions and on my third, while coming down off Magic Mountain (a little hill on the west side of the track) I heard the now familiar BANG followed by a weird, wiggly feeling in the back of the car. It was a little scarier at 80+ mph, but the wheel stayed on and I found that I could apply power if I loaded the left side of the car. So, I made it back to the pits and spent the rest of the school bumming rides with the instructors. This time I broke the stub axle on the right side of the car and, luckily, it didn't trash the brake drum. Since the shot peened Nissan Comp stub axles aren't available anymore, I've been doing some research on Cryogenic treatment (in addition to shot peening) and found that there really isn't much REAL information specific to this application. Here's a note regarding the subject from a Professor of Metallurgical Engineering: ----- Dear Mr. Coffey, The relationship between cryotreatment and fatigue of steel parts has not been studied that much. While there are many who have tried cryotreament for one reason or another, only a little scientific work has been done on it. Many sales claims are out there with little proof. Having said that, there are also a lot of people who have tried it and are very happy with what it does for them. I have spoken to a number of them and they seem to know what they are doing, so I believe that it is doing something to some of the properties of certain materials, particularly certain kinds of steel. Only a few people talk about it improving fatigue however, instead, most of the claims are for improved wear resistance. I have not seen any literature that speaks to the effect of cryotreating on welds. That doesn't mean that it doesn't do anything for the weld, it just means that no one I know has looked at it. My recommendation to you is to bypass the speed shops and steel treaters and talk directly to some of the full time cryotreaters. They will often do a trial run for free and let you see if you like the results (some of the steel treaters might also if you push them a little). This lowers your financial risk (assuming of course that you don't damage your car due to an early failure of one of the treated parts) and lets you see for yourself if it is worth the cost. I won't recommend any specific companies to you, as I would rather stay neutral, but you can find a large number of them through an internet search. ---- So, I guess I'll have my next set shot peened and cryo treated to see if I can keep the wheels on my car! ------------------ ---------- John Coffey johncof@veriomail.com

The 2000 Autocross season is winding down and the 2001 season is fast approaching. Here are 30 things you can do now to get ready for it: 1. Put on clothes you would typically wear on a hot day. Run in place, in your shower, with cold water cascading down on you, and sporadically bend over and pick up something. Do this for 1 hour. 2. Throw $25 away right now (SCCA members throw away $20). 3. Fill a blender with ice, hit the pulse button and let the spray blast your face. Leave the ice on your face until it melts. Let it drip into your clothes. 4. Throw $25 away right now (SCCA members throw away $20). 5. Put on clothes you would typically wear on a cold day. Go to a steel plant and run in place next to the smelter and sporadically bend over and pick something up. Do this for 1 hour. 6. Throw $25 away right now (SCCA members throw away $20). 7. Got to a tanning salon and get a good sunburn on your face. Then, put your face in front of a fan, turn the fan on, and throw sand into the back of it. 8. Throw $25 away right now (SCCA members throw away $20). 9. Crawl under your car and sporadically drop nuts and bolts, hot oil, grease, and old rubber hoses on your face. Scrape a hose clamp across your knuckles. 10. Throw $25 away right now (SCCA members throw away $20). 11. Pour oil and anti-freeze all over your body, put sunscreen in your eyes, and stand in the sun for 1 hour. 12. Throw $25 away right now (SCCA members throw away $20). 13. Don't drink any liquid for 12 hours. Then quickly drink 4 cans of beer. 14. Throw $25 away right now (SCCA members throw away $20). 15. Drink 3 cups of coffee and wait 6 hours before going to the bathroom at the worst gas station you can find. 16. Throw $25 away right now (SCCA members throw away $20). 17. Push your car up and down the block 3 times wearing your helmet with the visor down. 18. Throw $25 away right now (SCCA members throw away $20). 19. Find a highway construction area and run over every orange cone you can see. Then get out, walk back, and put every cone back in its place while arguing with each construction worker you encounter. 20. Throw $25 away right now (SCCA members throw away $20). 21. Get up at 4:00am and drive in heavy traffic for five hours - anywhere - towing your race car. 22. Throw $25 away right now (SCCA members throw away $20). 23. Push a small bucket over your head before you go to bed each night. 24. Throw $25 away right now (SCCA members throw away $20). 25. If you wear glasses, begin wearing them with glue smeared on the lenses. Sporadically pop one of the lenses out and scrape it on the ground. 26. Throw $25 away right now (SCCA members throw away $20). 27. Buy a new pair of driving gloves or shoes and immediately throw one away. 28. Throw $25 away right now (SCCA members throw away $20). 29. Slam your thumb in a car door. Take a short length of 2" round pipe and bash yourself in the head with it. Run over your foot with your car. Periodically stumble and fall. 30. Repeat all of the above every Sunday until it's time for the real thing. ------------------ ---------- John Coffey johncof@veriomail.com [This message has been edited by John Coffey (edited 09-29-2000).]

Do a compresion check. ------------------ ---------- John Coffey johncof@veriomail.com