auxilary

-tokico illuminas -ground control coilovers w/ eibach 200lb/in springs -full ES bushings kit -1" msa front, 3/4" suspension techniques rear sway -autopower rollbar -bumpsteer spacers, soon to be removed when I redrill the crossmember for new pivot points. it's bearable as a daily driver, but mostly weekends and racing events. I keep a daily driver neon for commute

Because in the states, we have a kit designed to swap a smallblock 350 into a 240z. $300 for the kit, $150 for a camaro radiator, $100 for motor mounts, $250 for custom drive shaft, and about $2000 for a carbed sbc 350 w/ a world class t5, throw in another $200 for clutch. Oh, and $100 for an electric fuel pump. What's the RB swap cost? (please include cost of mounts, oilpan with rear pickup instead of front, IC, engine management system, etc) So, that's 3100 for a complete swap to a 350. Of course, a 350 can be had even cheaper than that, 2k was just a gross estimate with a good carb. I know someone who got a 275hp rated LT1 with a t56 tranny with ecu and harness for 1400 bucks at the wrecker, just had to pull it himself. Oh, and we don't get rb motors as easily as you do in australia

no

summit has that kit for 136

I don't think I would bother with a VLSD. Might as well look for a turbo z31 rear end from 88-89 with a mechanical clutch lsd

you can re-drill the hubs for the 5 lug pattern, alsil did this on his old Z on hybridZ http://zcar.netdojo.com/5lug.htm

I'm not aware of any vendors selling shortened tubes. Reason for that is that there are no new tubes being manufactured (haven't for years) and NOS - new old stock - tubes are too expensive for a coilover maker to buy, cut, and weld.

quite the opposite, actually. the polyurethane bushings cause LESS deflection, so the TC rod doesn't travel as easily as needed and the forces act opposite the tensile strength, so it winds up snapping. I think ideally one wants to run the delrin TC kit MSA sells for 30 bucks with a PU bushing in the back, or rubber bushing front, PU bushing in the back -alex f

take a 12mm or 14 (depending which cover you get) socket and unbolt the rear cover. If you see this: It's a limited slip

looks like a vlsd from an n/a z32. does it have an orange sticker on it reading "VLSD" ?

in stock form, the Z is set up to understeer through the corner, as most cars are. This is easily remedied with a thicker rear sway or stiffer springs. to the guy running l28et and 4.3 gears: you may not like that gearing very much because you'll run out of gear before you reach full boost!

before I start disassembling it (again) this weekend more pics here in my gallery: http://www.datsunracing.com/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=2003-10-18zpics feel free to check out the full gallery as well: http://www.datsunracing.com/gallery/ -alex

it's been done, but people didn't swap in just the diff, but the complete irs = from brake calipers to half shafts. major fabrication required, you may want search for scottie gnz's info on hybridz. he successfully installed this.

if you wanna get technical, the front driver's spring on the 240z is 1/2" longer than the driver's side

the 280z crossmember differs slightly, but will bolt in directly to a 240z. it's a little beefier than the 240 one