e_racer1999

greyghost: i actually went through 2 schematics myself (FSM and chiltons) and i spent the better part of 3 days diagnosing it. i'm assuming that these professional electricians (oh god please let me be right!) know what they are doing.... i REALLY hope they know what they are doing. if it turns out that they screw up and realise that it's the T/S switch, they sure as HELL better not charge me for it. i'm going to set that straight. mikew: i'll attempt a search for your post and i will pick it up from the elec. shop and try it out. thanks for the ideas.... also, something i just realised... are all of the 240 combo switch and T/S switches essentially the same? if they are then there's no way that i should have to wait 8-10 days (that's what they say.... from the east coast on an NLA product) because it is a normally stocked item from VB! i'll have to edjumakate them..... PS - if it were my T/S switch then wouldn't my turn signals not work? if that's the case then that can't be it b/c they do... just not the hazards or the brake lights...

well, i just found out that my car's brake lights weren't working 'cause it's my combo switch and they want to charge me an outlandish amount for a combo switch (and $248 labor). if ANYONE has a fully working combo switch that they can get me for a reasonable price e-mail at e_racer1999@yahoo.com or reply to this ASAP! thanks guys... -jason

san diego here... not ZCSD yet though

... could be the reason it's a 4-cyl!

yes, i used an ohm meter.... AND i tried jumper....ing.... the wires but to no avail. tomorrow i get half a day off so i'm going to continue troubleshooting this... the time and experience is worth saving the hundreds of dollars....

thanks for the file, but i've already been perplexed my FSM AND my chiltons.... this is getting so annoying! it sucks having to work all the time and not fixing my car... anyway, thanks for all of the help!

okay cleaned and fixed my fuse block. check. now for the toughie.. the brake lights. they STILL don't work. tested the brake switch: operating perfectly. it appears that somehow the green/yellow wire that runs from the fuse block (+) turns into a negative (-) wire at the combination switch and brake switch. does anyone know if this is how it's supposed to be? i used a test light between the fuse block and the green/yellow combo wire and it lit up. if this is how it's supposed to be PLEASE let me know so i know where to look for the short. also, does the hazard switch do that or could it be burned out? the hazards still work which is throwing me off... anyway, thanks!

ok, thanks.... that's rather diasappointing....

also, i noticed it has the pull-out hazard switch and it appears to have a 260 intake manifold (short studs)

i;m assuming that the answer to this question will be no... but has anyone done this before? is it possible even with fabrication?

^^ black rear valence

thanks guys... i looked at the switch earlier and it APPEARED fine, but appearances are sometimes misleading. the only thing that kinda tossed me was that the brake lights stopped working and the fuse box got hot at the same time. this is what is leading me to believe that there's a stupid short in some hard to get to area at a common junction. anyway, i'll get out my multimeter when i get home from work and check la resistance...

^^ that one worked... that's a nice roadster! the price seems a little steep for a 1600... i have seen 2000s for sale here in san diego (ca) for around that price

cool thanks! ya, i read a bunch of different threads and pages about the problem, just not how to fix it! anyway, would that help my problem w/ my brake lights? b/c as of now i have no car....

hmm... my browser must be busted

came up a blank page for me...

after some thought i figured that... also, after another series of driving it DIDN'T fix the problem, just made it a little less obvious.... so back to the old drawing board

well.... i don't know what happened, but all of a sudden my brake lights quit working. it's not the bulbs and there aren't any obvious problems. coincidentally (or not) when i turn on my lights the left connector of the "tail" fuse gets hot and has since melted the plastic (GRRRR).... HELP! this is my daily driver and only car, and before anyone tells me to search i already have to no avail.... anyway, thanks

okay.... i fixed it! i was reading up on converting to a late model electronic ignition set-up (i still have the points) and i read that the 280zx coil (which i have) was meant to be used without the resistor that the 240z has. anyway, bypassed it and bye-bye problem!

what ignition coil are you using? the reason i ask is b/c i was going through a similar thing. after doing a little reading on converting to an electronic distributor, it was recommended to use a coil from a 280zx.... the thing is that these coils were meant to be used without the white resistor that 240s (and 260s?) used.... anyway, i bypassed this by unscrewing the green wire and screwing it down to the black wire on the other side... problem fixed!

to my knowledge (which may not be that accurate) the dimensions/chassis of all of the S30s were the same (with the exception of the bumpers, placement of the front turn signals, and taillights) this is of course excluding the 2+2s which were slightly longer with a different roofline. with the exception of the R200 rear end in the later 5-speed 280zs the suspension didn't change.... again, please feel free to correct me if i'm wrong in any point (i'm sure you won't hesitate)

i kinda like motorsport auto's set-up...

looks sexy!

that's a nice set-up mike... i might have to use it!

you're gonna be looking at $100 new or $55 used, but they're out of used ones (zcarparts) i need one too