Bambikiller240

It's already been done, but the only good thing about the design was the 100 gallon Moonshine tank in the back. (hate to bring it up, but since you did...... PS La Jolla is close to 500 miles away from SF, AND you may not know it, but there are gay people in your town in VA. (unless they've all been burned at the stake by now)

According to the books that I have, your 76 fuel system is different than the 240Z. In fact, I don't even see vent hoses listed for a 76 in the MSA catalog. That seems odd, though.

You might want to re-think that. Try a search of the website. Many people who claim to know, strongly urge people to NOT USE COPPER in a fuel system. Apparently it reacts with the fuel or the additives in the fuel.

Do you have any pics of your car at the drag races? Videos?

If you just use a length of fuel/oil rated hose, it will kink and won't allow the tank to vent. Some folks have found a spring to insert into the hose that will help keep it frim kinking in the area of the "U" shape. Other folks have mucked about with several 90 degree fittings to accomplish the "U", and then attached generic fuel/oil hose. Here is the one at MSA: (no picture) $55 USD (still a bit pricey) http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=11-3261&Category_Code=SFC04A But here is a diagram that shows it. GF-24. (the one shaped like a walking stick) If you need the one labelled GF-23, just use generic fuel/oil rated hose. But that isn't the one shaped like a walking stick.

Add back the bumpers, A/C, and other parts that you removed, and it IS heavy. "Especially in comparison to a 240Z." You are weighing less than a complete 2+2 Of course the car will be lighter when you start stripping heavy things things out of it.

"Common Sense!"

This the website of our member "Kats". He's gone completely to the extreme in making his car as close to an original North American spec 240Z as he possilby can. Check out his website and you'll see some cool videos of the first 240Z's to arrive in the USA being test driven around the country. Do a search on his member name and you'll find some very interesting threads with exceptional information being shared.

Actually, it was Gabriel that told me. This is very true and exactly why I want the proper lugnuts. I think I'll try contacting Konig, and Gabe.

G'Day Joseph: When mine failed, the failure was that it started spinning in the crankshaft and made a Gawd Awfull "screeeeeching" noise tha made people on the sidewalks look around for at least a block ahead of me. Sort of like putting a live cat in a meat grinder, feet first. It was the loudest, most annoying sustained noise I've ever heard come from a car (except for my neighbor kids stereo)

Thanks S.D. much appreciated. I'm too cheap to get DSL. And my local cable co (comcast) requires you to have cable TV service or it charges even more than usual for the cable modem service.

image can be no larger than 150 X 150 pixels. There is a file size limit as well, but I don't remember it.

Holy Cow, I started growing my mustache in 1970!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

well, maybe I exagerated, but I'll bet it would have taken out the radiator and bent the radiator support if the bumper wasn't there to absorb some of the impact energy.

Interesting. Up here you don't have to do that. You take quizs as you study for the required amount of time (logged into the traffic school website), then take a test. If you fail, you take it over again until you pass. I just logged in, watched TV etc instead of studying (they can't tell the difference), Printed the quizs and studied from there. Took the final test once and was done.

How about attaching photos instead of all the linked images? Some of us have dialup connections and this page already takes 4+ minutes to load with all of the linked images. Not to mention the pictures have stretched the width of the page to annoying extremes.

Seller's domestic shipping quote is OBSCENE!!!!

Actually, in a 70-72 240Z, even a 5-mph bump will exceed the protection that the front bumper can offer. My bumper ended up in the shape of a "W" (and pushed back into the new grille), cracked both sugar scoops, and the first 4" of my brand new hood was bent down at 45 degree angle. But it would have been far worse if the bumper wasn't there.

Do you have a link to information on this product? I just looked at my POR distributor's website and see no mention of such a product. (they may not have updated recently?) The only Primer I see mentioned is: TIE-COAT PRIMER Now, prime & paint right over cured POR-15 with our new Tie-Coat Primer. After thousands of requests from customers, our chemists developed this very special “interlocking” primer for painting over POR-15 with any type or color of paint you choose, without any need to rough up or de-gloss the POR-15. Tie-Coat Primer is a tough-yet-sandable, single-component, polyurethane primer, with special adhesion characteristics that make it perfect for most painted surfaces…especially POR-15. And, it is highly resistant to penetrating topcoats, like lacquers, enamels, & two-component finishes. It sands very smoothly, too. Note: It is not necessary to use Tie-Coat Primer prior to using any of POR-15’s Top Coats, it was designed to allow easy top coating with other paints on the market today.

Strange, I have been told that it needs a specific type of taper on the lugnuts.

With the engine in the car it is a bit of a hassle to get it out, but it's worth the effort IMO. If you don't want to try the hammer and chisel method, pack the bushing with grease, find a socket that just barely fits into the bushing. Install the socket backwards on an extension, then tap (hard) the socket into the grease filled bushing to compress the grease and force out the bushing. Look for grooves, or other deformation of the bushing, and looseness in the crankshaft. Frankly, I would just replace it without questioning whether it needed replacing or not. It only cost a few dollars, and having to pull the transmission again to do it later is a MAJOR P.I.T.A. The only time that I didn't replace a pilot bushing because it looked (and felt) OK, the damn thing failed before the pressure plate and clutch disc needed replacing again. It's your call, but I know what I would do.

I took it that he was referring to the support rails under the floorpans. As far as seat supports (not sure I'd call them "rails"), mine are black as yours, though it did look like they may have been 115 blue underneath.

Have you tried using the socket and grease method to force it out? If it's a bushing, (and not a needle/roller bearing) a Hammer and Small Chisel will do the job. Just be careful to not score the wall of the hole in the crankshaft with the chisel.

DO NOT prime the floors until after you have applied POR15. The POR must be in direct contact with the bare (properly treated with Marine Clean and Metal Ready) metal panel. The entire chassis (including the underside and support rails) was originally painted "body color" . Many people are using a product called "Brown Bread" as a replacement for the tar mat. Some others are using "Dynamat".

In many area's you can do your traffic school on the internet, and believe me, that is the way to go.