Bambikiller240

Rick: Please go back to posting your (self described) "usual smart arse remarks". That pic is *almost* enough to turn me off to one (actually two, since they mostly come in pairs) of my favorite toys in the world.

I can tell you that there are a lot of people in my area, Pleasanton, CA (near S.J) which is a largely upscale community who do not make $50K a year (and they also don't get all the extensive benefit given to civil servants). Our crime rate boarders on non-existant (especially relative to S.J. and other "Big Cities"). Hasn't been an officer killed, or shot, or even severely injured in the line of duty in our community for the 53 years that I've lived (born and raised) here. It's a relatively cushy job in this community, especially at $50K to start. You are thinking of officers who work in the ghetto's of Cokeland (Oakland), S.F., San Jose, Stockton, etc (all Northern CA cities with crime up the kazoo). Of course Cokeland (Oakland) has found it necessary to prosecute some of it's "finest" for running amok on the graveyard shift, meting out their own brand of justice without benefit of the judicial system. It's called the "Night-Rider" case. One of the officers was such a fine and upstanding fellow that he's fled the country to avoid procecution. Not every person with a badge on their shirt is a paragon of virtue. Actually, the average home price in my area is well over $500K, a beater, or a rickety condo will set you back ~$300K. A $50K salary here won't qualify you to buy a house, that's true but who else in what other career can qualify to buy a house when fresh out of college? It's common for people to have to work their way up from starting salaries in order to buy a house everywhere. It is a hard reach for young people to buy, but why should it be any different for a rookie cop? $50K (along with all the other benfits of civil service!) may not be a good starting wage for a Doctor or Lawyer, or some other profession, but it's a helluva wage for a rookie cop in this community and they don't seem to have any trouble finding people willing to take the job. As someone who has lived here for 53 years and is still living here, I think your perception of my CA is not very complete, nor accurate. I stand by my post as well.

Humor doesn't come across the internet well with out the use of emoticons or some other clue to the humorous intention. You'd be surprised at some of the idiotic ideas that are put forth in all seriousness here and elsewhere on the 'net.

Look at your 71 BMC, and compare the location of the larger Reservoir to the Larger Reservoir on the 79 BMC. If they are different........ On the 71 that I previously owned, and according to MSA's catalog, the 70-71 MBC would be different the ones used from 72 onward. For a 72-76 BMC, The LARGER reservoir should supply the front calipers. I've never even seen a ZX BMC so I can't tell you anything about it, but I would think that it would follow the convention of the 72-76, 77, and 78 BMC's

Earlier this year I had discovered a bad fuel hose (between the sender and the hard lines, that short run of hose). It only leaked when the engine was running. "Cheap arse Kragen fuel hose".

"Qué" http://www.freetranslation.com/ Try Spanish to English

I don't know. I got the 200 ml D100 spray.

Cheaper to buy it on eBay. You can also buy it direct from Caig.

QUE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Caig has many DeOxit products. I've used the "DeOxiT D100" and "D5". D100 works great for cleaning connectors, D5 will keep them clean. I haven't used the Power Booster or Pro Gold

take your pick

You'd be better off with a pin punch and a BFH, than mucking about with a jack. Step 1. WHACK Step 2. NONE, (you're DONE)

Que? (ten charecters)

There should not be sufficient heat on the right side of the car to cause fuel to boil. If it is boiling fuel the first thing I'd want to know is WHERE is the heat coming from to cause this. (there isn't any exhaust manifold, or pipes on that side of the motor) Are you SURE that the bubbles are fuel boiling?? I wiould suspect it to be air in the lines (possibly from a pin hole in a hose or line) rather than boiling fuel.

Any rust you can see in the wheelwells, or rocker panels is just the tip of the iceberg. There is more ROT in places that you cannot see. Rust will ALWAYS get worse if you don't remove it (or treat it with something, assuming it hasn't already ruined the panel)

BINGO!!!!!! PS: Regarding the Wheel Bearing tech page. SAVE IT to your own computer so you don't have to wait for it to load next time you want to view it.

I can't think of any reason you can't use the the 5 speed fork and slave cylinder for this? That's what I am planning on doing if/when I go to a 5-speed or change clutches again. Fork used in 73 4-speeds is used through 78 for ALL Z's, same for slave cylinder. I'd rather use the self-adjusting fork/slave (73-78) You just have to use the fork designed to be used with the appropriate slave. NOTE, You MUST use the appropriate T/O bearing collar for the CLUTCH/PRESSURE PLATE you are using.

I'll take the OEM door seals rather than the PRP aftermarket seals with the (allegedly) "better" rubber anyday.

THIS is the only "mental" trim that I am aware of.

I'm in NORTHERN CA, and $50K is a signiifcant amount of money for someone just starting their career (even in CA), and it may be what is necessarry to get people to do the job, but it is still IMO plenty of "thanks" for a starting wage. Can't think of too many other professions (other than Doctor & Lawyer) that pay that well for rookies.

For myself, I've found that with a good set of headlights, I have no need of auxiliary lighting.

:tapemouth :tapemouth :tapemouth I was wondering what it meant/referred to as well. I hope it doesn't mean the same thing.

Motorsport Auto sells all of them. They are expensive. I'd just buy the one with the 180 degree bend, and use fuel/oil rated hose from the local parts store for the others. DON'T USE HEATER HOSE!