Gav240z

I think SteveGee from Viczcar has some not 100% sure. You can try ozdat.com as usual I'm sure I've seen a few. Also ebay in Australia has had some. Give those a shot otherwise it's Warren at Zworx 9587 5500

if you don't mind your girls with a little extra weight that is .

my thoughts exactly it's hard enough to fix 1 car let alone 20. Seriously some people need to get a grip and maybe not be so greedy. It's good to have a few parts cars but 20 is ridiculous. Not wanting to sell any either just annoys me when i read stuff like that.

S130 don't suppose you know where this farm is do you?

If you look at our US counterparts they seem to have them as a standard item maybe in Australia they weren't essential back in the 70's and therefore never fitted?

Yeah I think it was optional just like the rear window defogger on the 240z's not sure though I remember seeing a later 260z 2+2 which had the hazard switch fitted. I think the 77 models had them standard. I've always thought it's a good idea also. Let me know if you come up with anything. Gav

Yes she's a bit rough look at the guard in the wheel photo looks a bit rusted and beaten up. Although she's perfect for a set of JDM flares and the Gnose is good work. I would consider buying her maybe not for $24,000 though.

Yeah sounds like a charge issue see how the battery goes. If not look toward the alternator.

Ok well first I would want to confirm that the problem is electrical. Since I had this problem with my "260z" when I had a thermo fan attached which would drain even more power from the car. The good thing about a 260z is you can see the voltage meter in a 240z it's a bit harder with amps. Is there anyway you can hook up a volt meter while your in the car to see this? Your volts should sit between 12 & 16 ideally at around 14 anything lower than 12 and you know it's a charge problem. As I said before you should confirm this is a problem with the electrical system and nothing else. If you are sure check the battery water levels as you may or may not know each cap in the battery has it's own reservoir(spelling?). If they are above the electrodes either your battery is stuff or it's a charge issue. The next place to look is the alternator, if you look on the back of the alternator you can tell if it's fried by the metal connector at the back it will look burnt out 9/10 times that's what stuffs up and causes huge resistance sometimes it can be internal or the voltage regulator but check these other items first. Since you do say it's when the headlights are on I'm inclined to believe it is electrical however with these problems I stress you don't disregard any other area.

Air Flow meter or throttle position sensor or map sensor depending on the set up. Could be a vacumm leak of some sort. Just some suggestions.

Well it could be that your switching the lights on is causing more "load" on the alternator which makes the engine rpm's drop. It's quite normal in most cases you could try increasing the idle speed if it's really low but in most cases I wouldn't worry. You haven't been really descriptive, if your battery is very low as a result then you should probably check the water levels and retop with distilled water if neccessary. I really need a better description of what you mean by "rough" does it start to backfire or hesitate or just idle lower and cause the car to shake a little more? :nervous:

Yeah well you have a choice either rip off an American Muscle car or a Japanese Legend . I agree with what someone else said it wouldnt look so bad without all that riff raff everywhere but yeah I like to keep things stock cometically in terms of tail lights. I've seen so many Lancers with those Alteza style lights I can only imagine how hard it will be to find stock ones in 20 years time . Good thing I never plan on restoring one of those pathetic cars

Yes you can safely go aftermarket on this part. My slave cylinder appears to be leaking so I'll pick up an aftermarket my friend assures me they will be just as good as a stock Nissan one and fairly cheap compared with one too.

Yes but an RB30 will rev nicely depending on the ignition curve sure small strokes work well in terms of revving but you can overcome this with balancing and reducing rotational mass Ie: light flywheel etc.. The L28 with an LD28 crank will rev to 9000rpm if you want it to. It comes down to the ignition curve alot of the time.

Has happened to me a few times I used refresh before and that fixed the problem. I first noticed it on a MAC at Uni and thought it was a Mac issue but obviouly not. As Carl says comes and goes. Must be a problem with a particular item not loading correctly and stuffing up the page layout. Just hit the refresh button and it should fix it. :classic:

Oh mate sorry to hear about it. I would be going mental also if he wouldn't accept my $$$ for it.

I think it's fair enough the fact he took the time to write a long reply back to you suggests he's not into wasting time which we can all understand costs us money. If i was serious about buying the car I'd put down a fair bid to start with and contact him saying I'd really like to view the car before I start bidding to high up for what i think it could be worth judging by the pictures. I read through his history on E-bay and the complaints seemed to be reasonable and on his side so you can view for yourself and make up your own minds about that. I say good luck to the buyer and the seller in this case looks like a nice car. Sure this stuff is expensive to repair and get parts for but it's half the fun sometimes . As for EricB well I think you should think hard about this I know I wouldn't want to sell my Z and I don't mind you. Especially with all the goodies you've done to yours . Think about how you might feel in 2 years time ;-).

That was what i was thinking Vicky! However I have not driven a 280z so therefore I can't comment. I have driven a 280zx and let me tell you "BIG Difference" in handling.

Yeah the 260z is very similar to the 240z. A little bit heavier but not all that much. In Australia we didn't get the 280z so I have never driven one and couldn't say if they are alot worse off in handling or not. When it comes to early S30's the 240z is generally considered cream of the crop FWIW.

are you talking about a 280Z or 280ZX?

Sounds good, I'll have to take some pictures when mine get's back from being ported and polished. I can't wait to get the LD28 crank either I'll be sure to take a few happy snaps. Infact what I'm saying is I'm gonna document the entire build of my engine that's for sure